Guys,
You're most welcome. There are a variety of approaches one can take with body work. I've had my share of "Oops!" results and am glad to help fellow modelers avoid them.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
tstage I really appreciate the sanding tips, Antonio. Seems this project is going to turn out to be more of a learning project than I originally anticipated...but in a good way. Tom
I really appreciate the sanding tips, Antonio. Seems this project is going to turn out to be more of a learning project than I originally anticipated...but in a good way.
Tom
Rich
Alton Junction
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Hello Tom,
Yes, the parting line can be excellent results if care is used.
Respectfully, this would be my approach:
Items:
A. Original Dawn Liquid soap or Ivory Liquid (or soap with NO moisturizers or lubricants).
B. Clean cotton cloth.
C. 3M Wet/Dry 600grit paper, 1200 grit paper, 1500 grit paper. (Always good to keep on hand)
Make sure your hands are clean and free of sweat and oils.
1. Cut out a 2"x 4" piece from each Wet/Dry sheet. Fold in 3 sections when using.
2. Wipe the surface off with either 70% isopropyl alcohol or Windex.
3. Fill a small container or tub with warm water mixed with a drop of Dawn or Ivory Liquid. Soak the wet-dry paper for at least 10 minutes.
4. Roughing: Carefully start wet-sand the parting line with 3M 600 gritWet/Dry sandpaper. Sand at a perpindicular angle for 10 seconds at a time, at a medium speed. Check your work each time. Think of the 600 as your "rough cutter". Wet sand enough to the point where you barely feel the lines. But don't go overboard.
(Why not do the nose too! You're painting the entire model, and it will only cost you a few extra minutes total.
4. Scratch and Remaining Lines Removal: Wet-sand with 1200 grit, same perpindicular angle in relation to the lines. Take your time. The 600 grit scratches will disappear and what's left of the parting lines should as well. Rinse the area with the water and inspect with a magifying glass.
5. Finessing smooth surface: Final Wet-sand with 1500 grit, 10 to 15-seconds at a time. Slow strokes. Rinse and check your work. The sanded area should feel as smooth as the rest of the shell's nose.
I know it sounds like I go over the top with simple jobs like this, but over the years I've seen models with attractive paint jobs that, unfortunately, clearly exhibited sand scratches on repaired or kitbashed areas.
The impression that I got was that the enthusiastic modeler was either in a hurry, or wasn't aware that he/she should have finished the body work by gradually switching to finer grits.
High Greens!
Thanks, Ed. The two horizonal lines on top of the nose are symmetrical and slightly visible but there is no tactile ridge like the ones along the side.
I only plan on lightly sanding the ridges. As soon as the ridge disappears from the surface of the shell I'll immediately stop sanding. I only want to remove the ridge and little else.
Yes, that's a parting line. And you REALLY want it gone. Elsewhere, just make sure that what you're thinking about removing really should be removed.
Ed
The assembly instructions for the Highliners F2 kit I'm working on states that the "parting lines on side and roof of nose" are to be sanded with 600-grit sandpaper. Is the faint vertical and diagonal line in the picture below what would be considered a parting line?
If I run my fingernail over the top of the line I can feel a slight ridge. So, I can see how this might undesirably become visible once the shell is painted. There are also two fainter lines on top of the nose but I can't feel those with my fingernail. However, I'll sand those lightly - just in case.
Thanks for the help. I'm finding that there's a lot to understand about assembling one of these kits - even before painting.