Atlas made some H15-44's and H16-44's. Check eBay, you might find some great deals.
I agree with Brakie.
For the pre 1960 era, I'd go with the Atlas ALCO S2, RS1, RS3, or their EMD GP7. They are equipped with Loksound, and except for a slight hum at low level sound switching speeds that you may not hear, Loksound are some of the best sound decoders for both sound and more importantly, IMO, operation.
- Douglas
ALL of my locos, except 2 T1 4-8-4's, are first gen diesels. Well I also have an 0-6-0 but I got that after I tore down my layout and moved. All of them, except the MDC boxcab, are smooth runners. That one hasn't run on my layout yet either, and I knew it was a coffee grinder going in, I will be using the shell on a new chassis.
Of the ones that DO run nicely, I have a bunch of Proto 2000 - GP7, S1, and FA's. None of those have sound, they are all from before factory sound was a thing. Most of them do have a motoor decoder in. Fitting a sound decoder in any of them shouldn't be too difficult other than the little S1 unless I don't mind filling the cab with the speaker. A Loksound Select Micro is smaller than the motor decoder I have in one of them now.
I have a LOT of RS3's - both as befits the actual roster of my prototype plus the fact that they are my favorite locos. Most of them are Atlas/Kato - mostly undecorated as well. Those are easy enough to install large speakers in, since the weights are individually removable. I have a thought on doing those that is a little different from what I've seen, although I doubt I am the first to think of this - other installs often remove one of the weights and then built a styrene shelf to support the speaker over the drive shaft and worm. I'm thinking - take the weight out, then slice off the two legs and glue those in on either side of the drive so that instead of a plastic shelf you have a metal one, at least it's SOME weight. Other installs I've seen just shave some of the weight off, but if the whole top part is gone, a deeper enclosure can be used for better sound.
I also have a couple MDC RS3's, mine have the P2K drive fromt he FA, and also run well. Plenty of space inside for sound. And an Athearn. Actually 2, one had very poor electrical contact and it still needs more work to run reliably, a second one ran fine right out of the box so I just swapped shells. Since they are based off the MDC ones, not too hard to add a sound decoder.
I have several Stewart/Bowser Baldwins. One is a factory sound with Loksound, and it shouldn't be too difficult to copy that one to add sound to the others. Those are VERY great running locos, especially for switching, with top quality Canon motors and very well detailed for plastic models - the ones I have are all built by Ajin, who normally do brass locos, and it shows. I also have a souple of the AS-16 road switches. They run nicely too, right now with just motor decoders but there is room for a speaker in there so they shouldn't be too difficult to convert.
I also have several Stewart/Bowser F units of various types, one FT is a factory Loksound B unit. There's a lot of metal in the chassis of these but it's more or less a channel instead of a large block, so long, narrow speakers can fit without milling away the chassis, which is how the factory one is - again i can just copy that to add sound to others. Or mill away some of the chassis to fit a larger speaker - there's plenty of weight that it will never miss having some trimmed away.
That's pretty much it - I have a bachman 44 tonner (single motor type), motor only decoder in that one, an Atlas Trainmaster with QSI which runs great, and an MTH FA set that runs fine but needs help in kleeping the soound on because when it hits a dead spot the sound shuts completely off and needs to be turned back on with F4. Fine, except that both the A and B units have sound and when running on the club layout usually only one of them stops. So when you hit F4, the one that shut off starts up, and the one that was still running shuts off. I may just rip the guts out and replace with Loksound - I didn't pay much more than the proce of a non-sound set for them anyway. And I have one Walthers Trainline FA, it's an old Train-Miniature shell with a new(er - it's 20 years old) chassis. It needs a detail kit to get nice grabs and stuff, but it runs incredibly well. I dug up the old MR review of it before I bid on it - with pure filtered DC it started moving at 1/2 a scale mile per hour! And plenty of room for a decoder and speaker.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
gdelmoro Thanks Paul, I do have an Athearn Genesis F9 that is DCC ready. Just a 8 pin plug. NO Sound. But the motor is isolated and I think TCS makes a drop in board.
Thanks Paul,
I do have an Athearn Genesis F9 that is DCC ready. Just a 8 pin plug. NO Sound. But the motor is isolated and I think TCS makes a drop in board.
Gary, my first loco (this time around) was an Genesis Tsunami GP9. After I got into using the LokSounds I decided to change to a LokSound Select as I did not like the sounds (particularly the horn, as someone has noted) very much. As my first conversion, I took the route of using the drop-in Select "Direct" board replacement which was easy. I changed from the low lifetime bulbs to SMD LEDs. For sound I replaced the original oval speaker in the long hood. I tried another (LokSound) oval temporarily but I wanted to try some micros, so I made a combo of a 13x18mm Knowles Grand and a smaller one. A definite improvement. See the video below.
This loco was pretty much my poster child for sound interruptions with slightly dirty track or less than perfect trackwork (a triple crossing combo) so I also added a capacitor in the short hood (or cab?) space, not shown. Today I would put a TCS Keep Alive KA4 (cubic format) but then I simply added the largest Radio Shack conventional capacitor, which was barely enough to solve the problem (sound hiccups).
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The OP did say great sounding in the title. I should point out to the OP that what some may consider great sounding may not sound so great to others.
I saw Atlas diesels mentioned, and while Atlas are great running, those installed with QSI sound, to me, aren't so great sounding. I have a couple of Atlas GP40-2's, which are nice and good runners, but the sound is unimpressive.
So the OP may want to listen to a variety of engines and deside for himself if the sound equipped diesels suggested satisfies or not.
From those I have heard which really impress me the most are the ESU Loksound equipped diesels. I haven't heard the new Tsunami II so I can't comment on them, and the Tsunami I are mixed, have good engine sounds but weak horns. QSI has come out with newer sound units which "may" be better than those in my Atlas engines, but your ears are going to be the best judge of what is "great sound" to you, and what is not so great. Different people have different standards of that is great sound.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
richg1998 gdelmoro I do have about 6 or 7 RS-1, 2, 3 DC Locomotives. Are they hard too convert to DCC and sound? Check this site. There are a few there. You might get some ideas. http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/WOWSound_Search/search.html Rich
gdelmoro I do have about 6 or 7 RS-1, 2, 3 DC Locomotives. Are they hard too convert to DCC and sound?
I do have about 6 or 7 RS-1, 2, 3 DC Locomotives. Are they hard too convert to DCC and sound?
Check this site. There are a few there. You might get some ideas.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/WOWSound_Search/search.html
Rich
That should be a good help.
Gary
BigDaddy Gary had more than his share of problems with factory DCC loco's. I have to hand it to him for even sticking with this hobby. If I were in his shoes, DIY DCC installations would be right below bamboo shoots under my fingernails on my to do list. Edit, Just saw Gary's post about his loco roster. In that case my frugality gene kicks in. The installation is delicate, but not brain surgery. There is no room in older locos for speakers so milling the weight may be necessary.
Gary had more than his share of problems with factory DCC loco's. I have to hand it to him for even sticking with this hobby.
If I were in his shoes, DIY DCC installations would be right below bamboo shoots under my fingernails on my to do list.
Edit, Just saw Gary's post about his loco roster. In that case my frugality gene kicks in. The installation is delicate, but not brain surgery. There is no room in older locos for speakers so milling the weight may be necessary.
You're right about the DCC Problems, however looking back I think many were track work from a layout built almost 30 years ago when i didn't know squat and just laid the track. Two recent problems with "DCC" were a bad solder joint and a bad circuit breaker. Collectively these accounted for 80%. Throw in a bad decoder (replaced by the vendor) and not knowing about a DCC system that resulted in a back and forth with the vendor and sending a loco back 2x because the sound came on every time I turned on the layout which turned out to be NOT a decoder problem but a shut down procedure problem. Finally I'm at a point where I've ripped up and replaced about 2/3's of the track and life is good again.
So based on that history, what could happen the first time I try to install a decoder .
gdelmoro Thanks Larry. Did you buy them from Atlas or another vendor?
Thanks Larry. Did you buy them from Atlas or another vendor?
I usually buy them on e-Bay or from M.B.Klein(modeltrainstuff.com).
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Any one of these are good;
GP7, GP9, RS-1, RS-3, RS-11, S2, S4, NW2, an H15-44 or an H16-44.
Below are early diesels that I have in my NYC roster and they run smooth & slow:
The asterisks(*) are equipped with sound decoders (QSI or Loksound); the others have motor-only decoders (TCS). The older Walthers SW1 I converted to DCC and added a rear LED headlight.
Tom
[CAUTION: The Proto 2000 S1 states that it is "DCC-ready" but it actually requires the motor brushes to be isolated from the frame BEFORE a decoder can be safely installed into it. Otherwise, you run the risk of frying the decoder if you short the locomotive somehow.]
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
There is a learning curve. My 1st install was non-sound, DCC ready RS-2 that I just had to plug the tiny TSC into the socket. My next RS-2 step was replacing the circuit board (to maximize room) with a wired in LokSound Select (the Micro is smaller and ok up to 3/4 amp). That require minor weight slimming or leaving out a small piece, and shortening the light pipes and gluing in the new LEDs. Plus adding the speakers against the curved roof with curved styrene enclosure ends. the RS-s is not the easiest but if you are handy (getting into locos to lube, car kits, etc.) and can solder reasonably it's not bad either.
An easier starting project might be an F unit, as there is usually existing or readily available room over the rear truck / drivetrain. The wired in decoders fit above the motor (I add a piece of styrene strip as a base). I usually rip out the existing circuuit boards for room and simplicity of wiring up the LEDs, etc.
The easiest first project might consider the TCS WowSounds that come in kits for specific locos and often show a photo example / instructions. I am a LokSound fan but note that the new WowSounds are getting many favorable comments.
http://tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/WOWSound_Search/search.html
The larger diesels (e.g, SD50+ vs. GP7) and cab (e.g, E Vs. F) units often have lots of useable space, or can be modified to make some.
On a different strokes for different folks angle, these conversions are one of my favorite activities (though the scenery awaits).
Many older locomotives, especially Proto, have a removable weight. Presto, plenty of room.Also, re stripping: CNW bought some E units from Kansas City Southern and threw paint on them right over the KCS paint. The KCS scheme was done in adhesive vinyl, and you could see it clearly under the yellow paint.I have never worried about stripping models since.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Perhaps consider converting available DC locos to DC w/sound to increase your options. My first conversion was a new (old stock) Kato RS-2 that is a very smooth runner, especially with the LokSound Select 6-Aux (one could use the Micro version). I was able to make a pseudo-enclosure in the top of the long hood with dual 13x18 micro speakers. Had to shorten the light pipes and add new LEDs.
Thanks!
Try Pinesol but be careful the first time I tried it to took off the lettering and the paint down to the white plastic.
Atlas Gold Series DCC/Sound GP7,RS-1,RS-3 or the RS11 would be my first choice.
I liked my Bowser VO-1000 loksound so much I ordered one of their new RS-3's that will be out late this year. My RS will be a WM and borrowing from Howard Zane, it will be "leased" to my RR.
The VO is a SP and I haven't had any luck removing the lettering with Microsol. I need to try the q-tip/alcohol trick and if that doesn't work, I will have to strip it.
Hi all,
I'm looking to add a early diesel era (1940 - 1959) to my layout. The layout is DCC. My diesel roster included 2 BLI SW1500 & 1 BLI SD7. I don't want any more 6 axle.
Operations are mostly branch line way-freight with some minor passenger service. I have a small sorting and a small ferry yard.
Recommendations?