Anybody know of a good way to clean needle files? Mine are clogged up with solder & metal shavings.
Usually a "File Card" is used.
https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-File-Card-Brush-Pack/dp/B001KVM2H2
However, I find that needle files are too fine to be cleaned by this method so I use the soft brass bristles of these small wire brushes and move in the opposite direction of the file teeth. On a mill file I wipe the brush across the teeth to clear the crud.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2PMDPK?psc=1
Hope that helps, Ed
The official thing to use to clean a file is a "file card". It's sort of like a flat brush with metal bristles.
For me, solder is about the only thing I have to remove. I use an x-acto blade (typically a #16), applying it "backwards", to clean it out.
I've never used a file card in over 50 years of machine work. I dunno, maybe they work, but I've never felt the need.
Ed
A file card?
I use a file card to clean my Nicholson files. I have about of dozen I use in model building down to about 6" long.
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My smaller files (about 4 inch blade length) were purchased from Mac Tools about 20 years ago. I use a brass brush to clean these. I bought the brushes from Grainger in a pack of four for about 5 dollars.
I do not haver any actual needle files. The small machinist files meet all my requirements.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Great advice,I will try to find a file card,THANKS to all.
gmpullman's suggestion to use a fine brass brush to clean jewelers files is correct. A file card is designed for larger course files but it may work. You should have two sets of jewelers files, one for plastic and the other for metals. I usually used compressed air to clean the plastic set.
This decussion remainds me, many moons ago, I was training a young fellow to run a milling machine. He was filing burrs off a piece of steel and his file was really loaded. I asked if he had a file card. Yes, he replied. He opened his tool box and pulled out a green 3x5. I knew it was going to be a long day!
Now, I'm curious if an ultrasonic cleaner would be a good method. I'll have to give it a try— when I can remember where I put mine!
Solder and soft metal in a needle file is in there pretty solid. I've even tried a wire wheel in my Dremel and that won't dig it out ! It's tedious, but an x-acto blade through every tooth is the only way I've found to get them completely clean.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
There's a mineral, crumbly and kinda like chalk, but harder than chalk. Comes in little blocks. Harder than solder and crud but softer than the hard tool steel file. Rub it over the file (or rub the file over it) like an eraser. Good as new.
We need to find a genuine machinist to say what this stuff is and where to get some. I'll do some research.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
ROBERT PETRICK We need to find a genuine machinist to say what this stuff is and where to get some. I'll do some research. Robert
Well I've only spent 50 years in the tool & die business. I don't know if that qualifies me as a "genuine machinist" but I'll give it a shot. Chalking a file is just as it sounds. You can use blackboard chalk. Some even use Ivory soap. The chalk acts as a dry lubricant and prevents the filings from sticking in the first place, so you don't have to use that file card as often and when you do, it cleans the teeth easier.
slammin Well I've only spent 50 years in the tool & die business. I don't know if that qualifies me as a "genuine machinist" but I'll give it a shot.
Well I've only spent 50 years in the tool & die business. I don't know if that qualifies me as a "genuine machinist" but I'll give it a shot.
Hey Slammin-
Yes, that certainly qualifies you!
Here's a photo of a block I have. It is hard. Kinda like a little block of marble kitchen countertop. I suppose it could be used beforehand like you described, but it can also be used after the fact. Rub it parallel with the grooves of the file and in a 'backwards' direction.
No idea exactly what it is, but it is harder than chalk.
ROBERT PETRICKNo idea exactly what it is, but it is harder than chalk.
I'm not a machinist— 38 years a Millwright by trade, we use soapstone for dusting files to help keep them from clogging. It is also good for marking steel plate prior to burning or welding.
I'm just interpolating a bit, but if what has been used and described works, why not dry graphite or talcum powder?
I have never found the need to clean my small needle files of various profiles, but if I did, I would resort to one of those "large tooth brush" shaped brass wire brushes you can get at dollar stores for about four bucks. Not the full sized ones about 12" from tip to tip, but they're maybe seven inches.
For the fairly-easy-to-remove stuff, a stiff toothbrush works pretty nicely, and for the slightly-harder-to-remove gunk, I use a small brass-bristled brush meant for suede. The really tough-to-get stuff gets cleaned out using an X-Acto blade, usually a well-used #11.A standard file card is too coarse for most needle files.
Wayne
Just a quick thought... good files are specified for use on ferrous or non-ferrrous metals. Using a file intended for ferrous metals on brass will lead to fast clogging.
Are these options available in hobbiest needle files?
I would assume that "jewelers files" are intended for non-ferrous metal working.
Not for the light hearted.....For diamond plated Jewelers files, which I only use for plastics, I use Lacquer thinner with a fine bristle brass brush. For mill and steel Jewlers files, I use Muriatic acid diluted with water and proper handling.......experience is the key here. Used it on tools for old school lead body work.
Take Care!
Frank
Speaking of bodywork, an autobody file is useful for thinning roofwalks on older models such as Athearn Bluebox or Train Miniature cars, like this modified TM door-and-a-half boxcar....
I trim off the cast-on mounting pegs, then work from both ends alternately until satisfied with the thickness. As the roofwalk gets thinner, it's more liable to break, but I simply cement it back together using solvent-type cement, and once hardened, carry on. The work goes surprisingly quickly.I use the file without the holder, as you need a free hand to hold the roofwalk.
Hello all,
I don't know if this will work but...
The recommended practice of cleaning files used for tuning skis is to soak them in white vinegar and then scrub them with a brass bristle brush.
The files used to tune skis encounter the shavings of the metal edges along with the plastic PTEX and the wax that allows the skis to glide.
The combination of these materials gum-up the cutting ability of these files, similar to what I imagine solder and metal shavings would do.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I use a small brass gun cleaning brush to loosen debris in file grooves then i blow out with air compressor. Really simple and fairly effective if done on a semi regular basis.
v/r
J.R.