Wheels for HO

[PVilla]

Your beautiful video of the "critter" and a turnout describe my problem extremely well, even though my problem is different. 

 

From my recent testing of the trackwork (era 1970 using 100 flex track, I find that many of my older as well as newest rolling stock incl. engines have a habit of derailing at turnouts. The phenomenon is perfectly described in hon30critter 's critter video. The longer the truck the greater probability of derailment.

 

              BTW, wheels are surely all code 110, and nothing smaller.

 

              Three turnouts are involved as well as a crossover. The turnouts are #6, probably Atlas bought about 1970. The frogs and the guards all contribute to the wheels dropping into the hole at the frog, which results in a wheels stepping out! Because of the tightness of the curves, which typically are 20” radius, replacing them is a decidedly unattractive route to go.

 

              Therefore, my question is how can I modify the turnouts to reduce the lateral gap, which would help wheels transverse vastly better?  Any pointeres welcome!

 

[PRR_in_AZ]

I replace all my plastic wheelesets with Bachman 33" metal wheelsets.  I choose them because I like my wheel treads to be shiny.  Not blackened kinda shiny. They have nice needlepoint axles and run well in most standard trucks.  I have a truck tuner but rarely use it.  I haven't seen much of a difference using it.

Chris

[wp8thsub]

jjdamnit

The era I model; 1970's to 1980's, the Kadee #560's work for most applications.

That's an interesting choice.  Kadee's #560 represents a proprietary truck design that was essentially unique to the Atlantic Coast Line, and continued in use on successor Seaboard Coast Line.  They would have been extremely rare on any other road.

[jjdamnit]

Hello all,

I too use Atlas Code 100 track and turnouts, with a few PECO code 100 turnouts in the mix.

Check out this thread: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/13/t/249039.aspx

After reading the responses to this thread I switched to Kadee HGC trucks with code 110 wheels.

Those that I did not swap out I "locked out" the sprung function of the trucks with CA.

The era I model; 1970's to 1980's, the Kadee #560's work for most applications. For three-axle applications I have used unsprung trucks from Walthers.

Hope this helps.

 

[ricktrains4824]

This depends on the railcars in question.

If the prototype cars have 36" wheels, I put 36" wheels on the models. Same rule for the 33" wheels.

110 ton coal hoppers, some intermodal equipment, modern (33K gal) tank cars, along with a few other cars, do indeed need 36" wheelsets. Most older railcars are 33" wheelsets, newer railcars could be either 33" or 36".

One key thing, if the couplers are just a smidge low on the car with 33" wheels, most likely the car needs to have 36" wheels installed. (Especially from certain manufacturers, who seem to design the coupler height to the correct wheel size.)

Conversely, if the 36" wheels rub the underframe of the railcar, they are too big and you need 33". 

And then we get to 28" on some equipment, and really throw in a monkey wrench! (TOFC cars, 89' Channel side flats, autoracks, and some others.)

[1arfarf3]

I bought 33's and tuner. WOW the amount of black plastic shavings. Big difference in rolling!!

But was wondering if there are any type of cars that would be better suited with 36's?? Short cars? Long cars? Coal cars?

Thanks.

[hon30critter]

1arfarf3

If they are brass, will oxidation be a concern/problem? 

Maybe in 50 years.

1arfarf3

Anyone had the oxidation problem with IM?

I have been on the forums for 11 years and I have never seen a comment about IM wheels corroding. I have seen tons of comments from people who recommend them.

Dave

[1arfarf3]

If they are brass, will oxidation be a concern/problem? 

Anyone had the oxidation problem with IM?

[hon30critter]

SeeYou190

My brass cabooses all have Tichy plastic caboose trucks with plastic wheels and axles. I made this decision because I just got too tired of chasing intermittent shorts when the metal wheels would hit the brass caboose steps on curves. This has introduced a few small problems. I might just end up cutting the steps off of the cabooses in frustration... not there yet! .

One other possible solution is to move the bolsters towards the center of the caboose just enough that the trucks clear the steps. It sounds complex, but if I was doing it I would just make up a new bolster and install it beside the originals. It would be much easier to use styrene than brass and just paint the styrene. The underside view won't be perfect but at least you will still have steps on the cabeese.

Dave

[doctorwayne]

1arfarf3

Standard or semi scale wheels?....

I might be a fan of semi-scale (or even scale) wheels if my trackwork were up to it, but I'd definitely want them to be in semi-scale or scale trucks (i.e. also narrowed to "scale").

While I use code 83 track, I prefer standard wheels, as in the "standard" ones which came with the car.  Preferably, that means plastic, but most new trucks come with metal wheels, and I don't usually bother to change them either, despite the extra (unprototypical) noise which they create.
I've not experienced any trouble with either type, unless the wheel has been damaged or was faulty when manufactured.

Wayne

[wp8thsub]

1arfarf3

Track and switches are Atlas code 100.

If that's your choice of track, I'd stick with code 110 ("standard") wheelsets.  Atlas code 100 turnouts can have gauge problems that cause code 88 wheelsets to fall off the rails through the points.  

You can rework the turnouts to address the gauge issue.  I've done so with the Atlas code 100 turnouts in my staging yards.  Code 88 wheelsets don't derail through the modified turnouts, but they can bounce through the frogs.

[SeeYou190]

I may be the lone hold out on Kadee. I use Kadee sprung trucks with thier 0.110" wheels on all my freight cars. I also only use Kadee couplers mounted in Kadee boxes wherever possible. There are no exceptions to this in the Stratton and Gillette freight car fleet. I want 100% derailment free operation.

.

My brass cabooses all have Tichy plastic caboose trucks with plastic wheels and axles. I made this decision because I just got too tired of chasing intermittent shorts when the metal wheels would hit the brass caboose steps on curves. This has introduced a few small problems. I might just end up cutting the steps off of the cabooses in frustration... not there yet!

.

My passenger cars just have a bunch of whatever. As long as they do not derail on the hidden track I am OK. My passenger equipment is so unloved. Someday I might get bitten by the bug that makes passenger trains a passion, but again, I am not there yet.

.

-Kevin

.

[hon30critter]

Hi 1arfarf3:

Here is my limited experience with semi scale .088" wheels and Peco code 100 track:

I build HO scale switching engines, commonly called 'critters'. I use BullAnt drives from Hollywood Foundry. They can be ordered to whatever specs you wish. I usually ordered standard .110" width wheels but in one case I mistakenly ordered .088" wheels. Here is a video of the .088 wheels going through a frog. You just need to watch the first few seconds:

You can clearly see what happens at the frog. I changed the wheels to .110" and the problem went away completely.

I believe that a lot of the guys who run semi scale wheels also lay their own track and make their own turnouts.

Also, FWIW, tons of people, myself included, use InterMountain wheels and there are never any complaints.

Dave

[peahrens]

The 33" Intermountain are my go to wheelsets for my (transition era) freight cars.  I use them on BB kits, Accurail and many others.  If you buy in 100 packs they are 60-70 cents per axle.  I did not know they were (turned) brass but note that they are blackened. 

https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Intermountain-HO-40055-33-Wheels-bulk-100-p/imr-40055.htm

I also use the Proto 33" ribbed back wheelsets on older era cars if they roll as good or better (downhill).  

I had read that the Kadees are scintered metal and may be more problematic with track gunk.  So I just got some IM and some Protos and tried them out.

Definitely use the Truck Tuner for consistent results. If interested, I also recommend a digital caliper (about $20, Harbor Freight even has one) to compare the original axle length with what you are substituting.  Theoretically one could go to the Reboxx site and pick the recomended Reboxx substitute.  But when measuring, I've found that the IM wheelsets often run very well even it not the exact axle length of the original, especially if slightly short (not tight).  So I use the IMs if they roll well downhill on the particular truck. 

I don't have an inclination to worry about the semi-scale more narrow wheels.  After all, my code 83 rail may be too large.  I'm quite happy with the typical shape wheelsets.  

[1arfarf3]

Wheel sets.  I see Intermountain sets on Ebay but they are brass. Did not see steel. I have some cars I purchased used that have bright steel wheels.

Does Intermountain make sets that are not brass?

Thanks.

  

 

 

[richg1998]

Intermountain and the truck tuner.

Kadee are nice but not solid metal like Intermountain.

I have used Reboxx and NWSL.

Rich

[MisterBeasley]

Are you replacing just wheels?  Wheel sets (2 wheels, 1 axle)?  Or whole trucks with frames?

I use Intermountain wheels, too, in 33 inch.  I will typically replace plastic wheelsets that came with the car or kit with metal Intermountain wheelsets, retaining the original truck frames.  If that does't work, I use Tichy truck frames.

And buy a Micro Mark "Truck Tuner" to clean out your axle bearings and make the cars run better.

[riogrande5761]

Semi scale wheels look great but if you use them you better make sure your track work is well done.

[mbinsewi]

I'd stick with the standard.  Especially if your doing lots of operations, like switching, etc. Semi-scale look good, but your track work HAS to be perfect, unless it's all for display.

I pretty much use Intermountain.

Mike

[1arfarf3]

Standard or semi scale wheels? Track and switches are Atlas code 100. Kadee or ??????

Thanks.