Thank you both! I don't have a good way to upload a track plan since I honestly don't know how to make a pretty one. I know of one of the curves that I can take out a straight section connecting to it and make it into one nice pretty sweeping S curve. Not sure if that's something I can do on the others, one has a switch and 2 sidings I'd have to move, the others there just isn't enough room without adding on an extra 6 inches or more plywood and foam to the layout.
joes2fst4uI was thinking that same thing actually. Would I just take out the two pieces of curve track and put the same length flex track in it? I have spare flex track I can use! ;)
Its not the S curve its self..Its how its made. A sweeping S curve made from flex track is ten times better then one made with 18" curves with a 9" section of straight track in between the curves.
Like I stated a "S" curve is a beautiful thing if it properly made.Its not a evil or a bad thing.
Here's a example of S curves on a floor layout.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQ5LkiuuDTA
If you have the room then improve the S curve by using flex track..Two pieces should do it just remember to leave a straight section between the curves..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
joes2fst4uWould I just take out the two pieces of curve track and put the same length flex track in it?
Likely not. If you curve the flex track in the same way the sectional track was curved, the s-curve will still be there and still cause problems. Posting a track plan will help others help you.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
floridaflyer Unless you change the S curve the derailment problem will not go away. As your S curve is about 18" long, one 36" piece of flex track would fix each S curve. Even at full retail that is about $12 for 2 pieces of Atlas code 100. well worth the cost to eliminate a problem.
Unless you change the S curve the derailment problem will not go away. As your S curve is about 18" long, one 36" piece of flex track would fix each S curve. Even at full retail that is about $12 for 2 pieces of Atlas code 100. well worth the cost to eliminate a problem.
I was thinking that same thing actually. Would I just take out the two pieces of curve track and put the same length flex track in it? I have spare flex track I can use! ;)
dknelson In the bigger picture, even having to throw away track is cheaper and better than following a track plan that will make you never want to run trains at all. Dave Nelson
In the bigger picture, even having to throw away track is cheaper and better than following a track plan that will make you never want to run trains at all.
Dave Nelson
Personally I would think twice since track is no longer on the cheap side.
Of course I never was one to waste things nor fortunate enough to have bottomless hobby budget pockets due to other important things in life like food,colthing, shelter and transportation I did well to have a shirt pocket budget for my toys.
I been a member of several clubs over the years and the majority of the modelers I met had limited budgets as well so,I guess I fit the mold..
Flex track is almost always better than snap track because you can loosen up the curves. Instead of having strict angles and straight track, the entire track can gently curve more gracefully.
Thank you very much! That is very true! And I agree you can never have too much safety!
A little sweetener to sprinkle on the distasteful job of changing an existing track plan.
In the full scale world, railroads will rebuild, reroute, lay heavier rail - even move a main line a couple of hundred miles south - to improve operation. For proof, just bring up your favorite satellite imaging program and follow along the UP route in Wyoming and Utah. Plenty of places where curves were widened to allow long wheelbase steam to operate at higher speed.
My own layout has a series of S curves where it runs down the canyon - but the minimum radus is 610mm (24") and I use spiral transitions that are equivalent to having straight sections longer than my longest car. Even with that, there's a disguised rerailer at each tunnel mouth. As far as I know, not one has ever had to re-rail a single axle - but there's no such thing as too much safety.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
joes2fst4u This layout I built in 3 sections, and it's not very big, but some day when I have more space I plan on a whole new bigger layout that integrates this one as more of a center island or something similar to that.
This layout I built in 3 sections, and it's not very big, but some day when I have more space I plan on a whole new bigger layout that integrates this one as more of a center island or something similar to that.
We all share your frustration and everyone here is trying to help, but sometimes reality rears its ugly head and sets hard limits. You have to go with what you got. About the best thing is to squeeze in whatever you can as best you can and establish a scale speed limit of 10 MPH through the troublesome area. Then salute smartly and charge up the hill. Good luck.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
Thank you sir that makes perfect sense! For sure I will be trying to fix it. And on future layouts I plan on putting in nice beautiful gradual 28" curves. This layout I built in 3 sections, and it's not very big, but some day when I have more space I plan on a whole new bigger layout that integrates this one as more of a center island or something similar to that.
What we're all trying to point out to you is that each of us learns something from each layout. We learn what not to do next time at the very least, but we also learn what we like. One of those things we learn later, at least for me it was later. I learned I liked the more modern (larger) steam era locomotives and the looooonnng heavyweight passenger cars. Eighteen inches didn't cut it any more once I decided I had to "upgrade" my stable of rolling stock.
Eighteen inch curves, whether or not there is an S in there someplace, or two, really limit your future possibilities. Even back in the day of John Armstrong and John Allen, they talked about 18" curves as being tight curves in the HO world. The modern Walthers long passenger cars need 24" as a minimum, especially with those accordioning diaphragms between the car vestibules. I found, as have others, that closer to 28" is much more trouble-free for the Walthers heavyweights.
Okay, so you're not there yet, and you have your project mapped out and well under way. You'd rather not change horses in mid-stream. We understand. Yet, you already know that you have a rather substantial problem in that S-curve. It stares at you with that one eye every time you look. It'll do it next week as well. Now, before you have it all ballasted and scenicked, take out the S curve or modify it. It's not too late, and you'll pat yourself on the back in two months for having gritted your teeth and elected to fix a known problem as soon as it presented itself.
Life is short, but life in the hobby is much shorter. Don't make it miserable at the same time. Make it gratifying.
Be brave; tackle it right away.
I think you're right! I have a small section balasted but the rest isn't. I'd have to tear up the balast at one of the S curves but the others aren't like that so it should be easier.
Thank you sir! Good to know! I know I can't run long steam on my track but that's not the era I'm in anyways. I have a couple sd70ace that run OK, other than occasionally derailing a car behind them.
joes2fst4uAt this point I may be too far along to redo my entire track plan.
Why waste time and maybe money if you can't salvage the track you have already laid? I won't spend your hobby dollars needlessly.
A "S" curve is a beautiful thing if its made properly. My suggestion is to use a 9" straight between the curves that makes the "S".
Why 9"?
That's a 40' or 50' car length.
A side note..Your 18" curves will limited the size of the locomotive and car length you can use.
Rull of Fumb... a straight the length of your longest peice of equipment between opposing curves.
Even LIONS have fums on their hands.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Do it NOW. I speak from experience. It's MUCH easier and better to do it before the scenery is in place and the tracks are ballasted. In any case a tight S like that will frustrate the heack out of you and eventually, you'll stop running trains or have to rip it all apart.
Gary
joes2fst4u Thank you gentlemen! I can post pictures for sure tomorrow! At this point I may be too far along to redo my entire track plan.
Thank you gentlemen! I can post pictures for sure tomorrow! At this point I may be too far along to redo my entire track plan.
If you are truly too far along to modify the track plan, then you will be stuck forever with a trouble spot on your layout.
Rich
Alton Junction
If you can't realistically insert at least a 6" length of tangent (straight) track between the 'hooks' of your S-curve, you should seriously consider a complete rethink of your track plan. Go wide and make a broader curve to join the rest of the tracks beyond where your S was.
An S curve is an S curve, no matter if it is made with flex track, set track or two turnouts. All will cause problems. Modify your track plan to eliminate the curves?
Can you post a drawing of the layout plan or photo of the problem areas?
joes2fst4uI'm debating about putting a piece of flex track in there instead of the two curve pieces if that would work better. What do you think?
If the flex track is still shapped as a S, it still a S. You need a straight section that is long as the longest car or engine you want to run.
Good Luck, Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I was actually just thinking the same. I think in one of the S curves I can, but the other most likely not add a straight section. I'm debating about putting a piece of flex track in there instead of the two curve pieces if that would work better. What do you think?
Well, at least you've identified the problem. The solution depends on how much space you have. Can you open up the curves a bit and put a short section of straight track between the two curved sections, or possibly go with 22-inch curves instead of 18-inch?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hello all! Due to some space limitations on my layout I have 3 HO scale S curves which are two pieces of the standard 18" radius track put together to make an S. Because of that, I cannot run anything long, consist locomotives, or run things without some modifications. What can I do to try to replace the S curves or fix them so that I'm not derailing trains and could hopefully consist locomotives at some point? I can post pics if anyone would like to see. Thank you all!