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Best way to Edit Roadnumbers on cars

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Best way to Edit Roadnumbers on cars
Posted by SpartanCook on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 3:28 PM

Hello All,

       I am trying to build up my fleet of tank cars that i am using on my alaska railroad. I currently have 2 of the below athearn tank cars both #9003 as there are only 2 provided roadnumbers i need to learn how to edit them myself. I figured the first go around it would be easiest to just add some lettering to one and turn it into #9008 filling in the left side of the 3. How would i go about doing this for the best results? Paint? Decals? This is my first adventure in this aspect so any help is appreciated.

http://www.athearn.com/newsletter/042415/09_RTR_single_dome_042415.pdf

Thanks,

Spartan

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Posted by Lonnie Utah on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 3:52 PM

I don't know if these would work or not, but the font looks similar. 

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=87-256&Category_Code=ARR

 

Best of luck. 

Lonnie

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 5:34 PM

I would make my own decals, but part of that is understanding the process.  What color is the lettering you ar trying to change, and what color is the background?  Putting dark colored letters on light background is easy.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by SpartanCook on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 5:38 PM

The letters are black going on a silver background 

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Posted by dknelson on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 5:44 PM

What I have done, sometimes with success, is use an ordinary pencil eraser to remove some or all of the factory numbers, then replace numbers with dry transfers of the same or at least plausibly similar size and font.  Woodland Scenics has dry transfers in various sizes and fonts and I have a supply of common railcar number sizes and fonts.  Some of them came from a manufacturer who no longer seems to exist.  Here is the dry transfer part of the WS website:

http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/Show/category/DecalsGraphics/page/1

If I am lucky I can erase one number and replace it with another that is a good match.   When nothing seems to match, I sometimes resort to erasing all the numbers so at least all the numbers look plausibly correct in size.  This would drive some prototype modeler types crazy but is good enough for me.  

If the eraser does not remove the number then other techniques are called for and there are many threads on these forums about removing factory lettering for me to try to summarize them all.  If you use isopropyl alcohol and a swab, such as those little micro brushes, I suggest avoiding 90% and even 70% because they are too quick to remove paint down to bare plastic in my experience.  Walmart sells 50% isopropyl alcohol which is essentially just watered down with distilled water.

I guess I would concede that tank cars are not the easiest thing to dry transfer (or wet decal for that matter) - I much prefer boxcars or reefers.  But it can be done with care and patience.

Dave Nelson

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Posted by Lone Wolf and Santa Fe on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 5:57 PM

SpartanCook
I figured the first go around it would be easiest to just add some lettering to one and turn it into #9008 filling in the left side of the 3. How would i go about doing this for the best results?

I have forged a few numbers on fright cars by either adding paint with a very fine brush or scratching off paint with a Xacto knife. Like anything it takes a little practice and skill. The biggest skill is picking the right number to change with the minimum alteration. The less you change the better. Also, cover it up a little bit with weathering to help hide the change.
Another trick is to have the number hidden by graffiti, or have a new number stenciled over some graffiti.

 

Modeling a fictional version of California set in the 1990s Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Railroad
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Posted by Bundy74 on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 6:18 PM

One thing I learned (by mistake unfortunately) is that Athearn decals come off with thinner, or microsol.  Also, I believe Cody Grivno had a Step-by-Step a few years ago about renumbering an Athearn SW1500.  I imagine Athearn's painting process is the same across the board, so you should check that article out.  I believe it was part of the Winter Hill Series.

 

**EDIT** This is in the April 2013 Issue, in the Step-BY-Step column

Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.

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Posted by dstarr on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 6:22 PM

The most straight forward way to change a reporting number on HO rolling stock is to brush paint over the factory number and then decal a new number on top of the paint.  Works best if you find a paint that is a really good match for the existing paint job.  You have a choice between decal sets for the car/roadnumber at hand and sets of just reporting marking in white. 

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Posted by Doughless on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 7:18 PM

SpartanCook

Hello All,

       I am trying to build up my fleet of tank cars that i am using on my alaska railroad. I currently have 2 of the below athearn tank cars both #9003 as there are only 2 provided roadnumbers i need to learn how to edit them myself. I figured the first go around it would be easiest to just add some lettering to one and turn it into #9008 filling in the left side of the 3. How would i go about doing this for the best results? Paint? Decals? This is my first adventure in this aspect so any help is appreciated.

http://www.athearn.com/newsletter/042415/09_RTR_single_dome_042415.pdf

Thanks,

Spartan

 

Yep.  I use paint to fill in the gap.  Dry brush technique with the end of a toothpick and a strong magnifyinig glass.  3 to 0 also works by color matching the leftover parts of the 3 to the body color.  

Of course, slight weathering carried up into the numbers hides imperfections. 

- Douglas

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 7:37 PM

Black letters on a light background should be the easiest.  I would suggest removing the entire number rather than trying to just replace one digit.  The numbers all line up that way without too much effort, and it's a lot easier to deal with the larger decal than a tiny single-digit one.  The font and number size will all be the same as well.

Once you carefully remove the decal, clean the area and spray it with a bit of clear gloss finish.  That will give you a good smooth base for applying the decal.  Once the decal is set, use a clear satin overcoat to protect it.  Then you can weather the surface appropriately.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by Doughless on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 8:03 PM

These are factory RTR tank cars.  There are no decals to remove.  The numbers are painted on.  If OP would use decals over existing numbers, the numbers will likely show through.  If OP is going to remove the factory painted numbers first, he will have to use a liquid and q tip or a dry scraper, both of which will likely marr the silver body and he will have a lot of touching up to do. 

The best way to change just one number is to mess with the finely printed details as little as possible, IMO.

- Douglas

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Posted by EMDSD40 on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 8:54 PM

I use 3M automotive scratch remover on a wooden Q-tip. Have done this on many different manufacturers locomotives to change cab numbers. Go slow and you will remove only the painted on number leaving you with a highly polished surface to apply new decal numbers. Then follow up with a coat of Dullcote on the entire unit. This is technique sensitive so rub lightly. Best of luck!

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Posted by Doughless on Thursday, February 16, 2017 11:09 AM

EMDSD40

I use 3M automotive scratch remover on a wooden Q-tip. Have done this on many different manufacturers locomotives to change cab numbers. Go slow and you will remove only the painted on number leaving you with a highly polished surface to apply new decal numbers. Then follow up with a coat of Dullcote on the entire unit. This is technique sensitive so rub lightly. Best of luck!

 

So this is like a traditional automotive paint rubbing compound?  Slightly abrasive yet polishes when done correctly?  Never thought to try that but it does sound interesting. 

- Douglas

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Posted by Bundy74 on Thursday, February 16, 2017 12:45 PM

Doughless
These are factory RTR tank cars.  There are no decals to remove.

I have to disagree here.  I know for a fact the Athearn RTR BN reefer I tried to weather was decaled, because the letters come off like decals.  This is not to say that ALL athearn cars are this way, or that Athearn has changed how they letter.  Just a fore-warning that it MAY be this way.

I know Accurail and Atlas do paint their lettering, because I've never had an issue. 

 

**EDIT.  It seems our friends from Athearn have already solved this issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Gf7xqIHGMQ

Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.

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Posted by Lone Wolf and Santa Fe on Thursday, February 16, 2017 7:39 PM

In the August 2016 issue Cody shows how to renumber using decals. It is good if you are changing several cars. If you are just changing one it seems like a lot of work.

Modeling a fictional version of California set in the 1990s Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Railroad
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Posted by EMDSD40 on Sunday, February 19, 2017 7:26 AM

Correct on automotive rubbing/scratch remover compound. Has worked on Athearn BB locomotives. Last group re-numbered included 7 Kato NS SD80mac's and Dash-9's. I follow up with a coat of Dull-cote.

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