They attach on the top of the coupler pads. I dimpled the top of the boxes with a 3/16" drill bit and used a flat head screw to hold them in place. With round head screws the body would hit the screw heads and not go all the way in place.
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I have Details West plows on the front and rear. These are held in place with rare earth magnets, so I can remove the body easily. A plastic modeler that builds a lot of Gundam models showed me the hidden magnet trick.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
BTW, if you're thinking about just replacing the factory coupler covers with a fresh pair of typical Athearn covers, the Athearns don't quite fit.
- Douglas
maxman SeeYou190 I had no trouble converting my Proto 2000 SD7. The factory plastic covers went into the trash. I Drilled the factory pads for 2-56 and installed a 30 series coupler in the Kadee box. -Kevin Did these attach to the top of the little tongue on the chassis, or on the bottom? And can you remove them with the shell in place? Thanks Maxman
SeeYou190 I had no trouble converting my Proto 2000 SD7. The factory plastic covers went into the trash. I Drilled the factory pads for 2-56 and installed a 30 series coupler in the Kadee box. -Kevin
I had no trouble converting my Proto 2000 SD7. The factory plastic covers went into the trash. I Drilled the factory pads for 2-56 and installed a 30 series coupler in the Kadee box.
Did these attach to the top of the little tongue on the chassis, or on the bottom? And can you remove them with the shell in place?
Thanks
Maxman
That's the question. I've seen this modification too, and to keep proper coupler height, they generally mount from the top of the tongue. That requires you to remove the pilot detail in order to remove the shell in order to access the coupler, for whatever reason you might want to after its installed.
Which may not be a a big deal since you probably won't be removing the shell or coupler very often.
DoughlessLL corrected the coupler box issue in the second run of the big blue box, marked by the language "NMRA Compatible Couplers" towards the lower part of the front of the box.
I'll have to look for that. I suppose it really should state "NMRA Compatible Coupler Mounting".
DoughlessI have found that the shell stays securely on the frame by friction alone. I let the tabs fall to the floor and vacuum them up.
I'm with you on the vacuuming part! Loose shell, maybe not such a great idea, especially in a club environment where things get picked up by unsuspecting other individuals.
DoughlessI have seen some people resorting to major surgery to the frame in removing the metal mounting pads and constructing coupler pads to the shell.
I'm thinking this might have to be the way to go. I did take a look at the inside of the shell and, of course, the area where the mounting would go has all sorts of angular inconveniences instead of a nice rectangular space. I guess we gotta do what we gotta do.
If anyone has any photos or link to someplace where this renovation was done, I'd appreciate knowing. I can copy pretty well...initial design is another matter.
What is unfortunate about all this is the locos are "new" to the owner and he just had sound installed in them. I guess this gives credence to the idea that we need to make sure the model operates/assembles properly before we invest a bunch more money. A shame, really, because otherwise a very nicely detailed model, 20 years old or not.
Anyway, if anyone has some photos, it would be appreciated.
riogrande5761they have the horrible awful terrible Athearn style coupler mounts with the clips that hold the couplers on.
I wouldn't mind the clips so much except that they clip from the top, not the bottom, so there is no way to put the couplers on with the shell in place.
riogrande5761IIRC, the solution others had for the Athearn mounts was to file the metal down so and drill/tap a 2-56 machine screw hole so you could mount KD's in the draft gear box at the correct height.
I had thought about this but I don't think that would work. Unlike the Athearn mount, the coupler is attached to the top of the chassis ledge not the bottom. So by the time the coupler is dropped to the correct height I think the chassis ledge would be totally removed. I will take a look, however.
gmpullmanThat was supposed to be the "door operating tool"! I take the hook and form it into a small eye and it makes a nice glue applicator for ACCGeeked
Well, I guess I guessed correctly when I said it looked like it was supposed to grab something. I foresee that it will have the suggested alternate use.
maxman Included with the parts is a long, thin wire gadget that has a loop at one end and a small hook at the other.
That was supposed to be the "door operating tool"! I take the hook and form it into a small eye and it makes a nice glue applicator for ACC
L-L used those lousy clips on all the early E units and FAs, too. Bad news!
Ed
Doughless Maxman, You have a first run SD7 produced by LL (big blue box). All of the issues you mentioned were basically corrected with their second run, probably 20 years ago now. The coupler covers are reminiscent of the athearn BB covers, except less reliable. I don't know if there is an easy fix as I have found that the plastic is somewhat soft and easily damaged. Some have resorted to major surgery to the frame in removing the metal mounting pads and constructing coupler boxes that attach to the frames.
Maxman,
You have a first run SD7 produced by LL (big blue box). All of the issues you mentioned were basically corrected with their second run, probably 20 years ago now.
The coupler covers are reminiscent of the athearn BB covers, except less reliable. I don't know if there is an easy fix as I have found that the plastic is somewhat soft and easily damaged. Some have resorted to major surgery to the frame in removing the metal mounting pads and constructing coupler boxes that attach to the frames.
Yep, thats what I see on mine. I have four LL P2K SD7/9's (two each) and they have the horrible awful terrible Athearn style coupler mounts with the clips that hold the couplers on. Did I say I hate them?
IIRC, the solution others had for the Athearn mounts was to file the metal down so and drill/tap a 2-56 machine screw hole so you could mount KD's in the draft gear box at the correct height. Fun.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
The coupler covers are reminiscent of the athearn BB covers, except less reliable. I don't know if there is an easy fix as I have found that the plastic is somewhat soft and easily damaged. I have seen some people resorting to major surgery to the frame in removing the metal mounting pads and constructing coupler pads to the shell.
I have found that the shell stays securely on the frame by friction alone. I let the tabs fall to the floor and vacuum them up.
The pilot details are designed to press fit, not glued, for obvious reasons. LL corrected the coupler box issue in the second run of the big blue box, marked by the language "NMRA Compatible Couplers" towards the lower part of the front of the box. If the box lacks that language, you have a first run and the coupler mount design is a pain.
All Walthers produced sd7/9s, in the grey boxes, don't have any of these design flaws and are very nice models.
A frustrating evening at the club trying to help out another member.
1. Included with the parts is a long, thin wire gadget that has a loop at one end and a small hook at the other. It is shown on the instruction sheets to the left of all the part 16 handrail items. You can see it here: http://hoseeker.org/lifelikeenginediagrams/lifelikeproto2000sd7pg4.jpg.
There is no associated item number for this thing. It appears that it would be used to reach in and grab/move something, but I'm not finding any immediate reference to it in the instructions. Anyone have an idea?
2. Having trouble mounting couplers. There is a pin integral to the part 7 coupler cover (see http://hoseeker.org/lifelikeenginediagrams/lifelikeproto2000sd7pg5.jpg0 that is supposed to engage a hole in the chassis mounting pad. Trying to install Kadee whisker couplers, there does not appear to be any surface area at the side of the mounting to bear against the whiskers. In any event, it seems that the assembly clamps the coupler movement so that the coupler cannot spring back even if it wanted to. Also tried the #5's and had the same result...looks like not enough vertical clearance in the box. What might we being doing incorrectly?
3. Several of the body shell pins that are supposed to engage the chassis have been broken off. He found one of them and we have glued back. We'll see how that works out. However, I thought "no problem", if we attach the pilots (part 17 on the first reference) that will enclose the pilots and slipping through the couplers and attaching them to the chassis will keep the body shell in position. WRONG! Because the part 7 coupler box cover must be snapped into position from the top, there does appear any way to make this assembly with the shell in place.
In addition, if one would be so foolish to glue the pilots into position after everything is assembled so they don't fall off on the railroad, there does not appear to be any way to get the couplers reassembled.
I'm sure that there are solutions to all these, but they currently escape me. So I await with bad and baited breath everyone's assistance.