I have the Micromark car as well, must have gotten it well over 13 year (maybe turn of the century?). I used it back then some but not recently, so its been resting on a shelf.I just took a look at it and I see that, in the middle of the car, I attached 2 small line spirit levels in a T formation (so as to pitch and roll I guess) and also added some weight - this whole addition was done by me in a fairly neat skookum manner, which is surprizing considering what I remember of my work habits of the time.Since now I can't recall why I thought the levels were a good idea, I am guessing there was some article back then which suggested this was a great idea. At least the trucks and couplers remain quite visible thru the plastic, so it can still be used in the usual manner.
I made my own test car with a piece of plexiglas and Kadee trucks. I think I might change the two axle trucks to three axle trucks. I usually have more problems with 6 axle locomotives.
I also put colored tape on each side of the car that matches the color code of the the rail wiring. Helps keep every thing correct when adding or revamping track.
In answer to a previous question...yes it is an atlas turnout... actually all my regular turnouts are atlas... and seem to be fine (plastic frogs)... this one however is a Y turnout code 83 track... and the rails seem to be slightly lower then attached to adjoining track.(all my adjoing rail is 83 also).. the frog is metal... I think the specs on this turnout is just a hair off...I'll have to do some investigating why... at the point I think the click is happening is where I have rail joiners... and the top of the joiner is a bit higher than normal... thus the inside of the truck (the raised pointed part) rolls up on the joiner and then drops off the joiner to give a click... once I see exactly what is going on...(I did note that I have some cars with a shallow type pointed truck..and it doesnt click) I may take the joiners out and just solder the rails... 90% of my track is laid... but all the wiring and soldering isn't done as of yet... its DCC and I've got a lot of isolated track circuits around... this is a service yard... and has a lot of "park it" loco sections.... and didn't want the track active for a parked loco....
has two turntables ,,, one expensive 110' computerized one at one end... and a smaller atlas turntable at the other (7' away)... this way I can run loco's back and forth without actually picking them up and turning them around... once I post pics you'll get the idea... did track plan myself with a lot of referencing to real service terminals.... I'm actually very happy with the results..
In building my current layout, the test locos were the smallest wheelbased switcher I had, and a BLI 2-10-2 steamer. If these can go w/o problems, all is well.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I thought I had perfect track. My 4 axel diesels and cars ran just fine and then I bought my first steamer.....need I say more.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Hi,
I've had the Micromark car for many years. It has sure come in handy! Of course you could make one, but be sure it is square and free wheeling and free truck movements.
joegibmy actual problem is a "audible click" by a back wheel on a car as it goes over a switch point area....
Atlas track by any chance? They are known for having shallow frogs never mind a frog is not a point.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I'm probably going to make a plexiglas one... my actual problem is a "audible click" by a back wheel on a car as it goes over a switch point area.... the switch is near a back wall,,, and it is on the back side of the car.. I can't see what is happening.. I even tried to put my cell phone back there to video it... but that didn't work... I know there is an uneven track where two pieces are aligned together,, but don't want to mess with filing or refitting unless I know that it is the area in question.... the uneven area is like a code 83 rail joining a code 75 rail....its a height problem... need to see a clear top view of the trucks running over that area..... I appreciate all the comments.... thanks joeg
I'll let you know when I find the problem.... right now we just had 6" buildup of snow and it stopped snowing... I'm off to snowplow and dig out... I'm in manchester, ct should be in florida...
I've got one. Seems that I picked it up at a train show when I had a couple extra dollars in the pocket. It could be easily made using some sturdy plexiglass. I have used mine a couple times, but find that 90% of the time I can address the derailment issue with standard methods (check the obvious stuff). The plexiglass flatcar is now found in a storage box, not out in the regular use areas. In short, it does work but does not replace regular care and normal problem solving.
Bill
I'm still old school so, no whiz bang by gollies here. I use my eyes,NMRA gauge,fingers and one of my regular freight cars since that's what I will be using. I still eyeball my track by laying my head on the rails and looking down the track-you might be surprise of the kink or a ever so slight bow you might see in what looks to be perfectly laid track from above..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Kadee still makes their disconnected and skeleton log car kits.
http://www.kadee.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=178_181
I had the disconnected version way back in high school.
CG
Ah... the micro Mark car.. thats where I saw it... but actually I could easily build one as suggested also.. thanks for your help .. found what I was looking for...
I'm building a 3x8 ft service maintenance yard... (thats the only room I have).. I'll be posting pics of it shortly...
The Micro Mark car looks great, as long as there is no distortion in the clear material.
I don't know of another one on the market at this time, but skeleton log cars have been available, at least in brass. A friend scratchbuilt a model of a steel gondola car, and his last step was to add the wooden floor. He delayed adding that floor while he did trackwork, so that he could see through the car to the rails. Now that the car is completed, the floor is removable, so he can use the car that way any time he needs to. I would be tempted to build a gondola with no floor, and put a close-fitting pipe load in there for normal use; remove it for trackwork.
Tom
Good Morning Joeg,
I have never known of one, but that is a great idea if set to NMRA standards. I use a quick, free rolling 50 foot hopper that I push down the line and where ever it derails or bumps I inspect and repair. Good luck, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours :-)
Angelo
Freelancing MCRR/NYC Northern Division - Angelo
Are you thinking of this?
http://www.micromark.com/ho-track-inspection-car-with-metal-wheels,8025.html
Seems to me that I once saw a flatbed HO car that was just a skeleton frame that you could run over the track to see exactly how the wheelsets were running... and to spot derailment problems ... I've searched internet for a long time and cannot find any reference to that car... maybe my search words are not accurate.... anyone know of such a car ?.... if not I guess I just have to make one on my bench.... thanks joeg