I fixed one car but decided it was not worth fixing the others. I repainted the grab and ladder flat black (could have ordered replacements from Atlas maybe). The other things I tried just did not work like dulcoat and other ideas.
gmpullman I don't remember where I got this B&LE "foobie" bay window caboose but it is one of my few cars that has the same etherial "glow" about it. I really don't think it is painted, it seems to be molded in that color of bright red-orange plastic. It has a translucent look to it as well. I have always planned to weather it which I believe would be the only recourse for any of the glowing cars in this discussion.
I don't remember where I got this B&LE "foobie" bay window caboose but it is one of my few cars that has the same etherial "glow" about it.
I really don't think it is painted, it seems to be molded in that color of bright red-orange plastic. It has a translucent look to it as well. I have always planned to weather it which I believe would be the only recourse for any of the glowing cars in this discussion.
I had the same trouble with a Kadee 50' Illinios Central boxcar. The car is molded in an orange colored plastic and then given a light coat of orange paint. It had a translucent look to it until I painted the entire inside of the shell a dark brown. That made it look more solid and exterior weathering should make it look pretty good.
Mark
And here I though this was going to be a thread about those Tyco glow in the dark trains (to go with the glow int he dark slot cars) they had in th 70's. A few UV LEDs in the lighting and - Ghost Train!
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Ed,
I'll bet the reason the S2 looks different compared to the I1s in the photo is because BLI must have used a primer or at least a different paint formula over the brass as opposed to the I1s which are die-cast zamac. Generally, BLI is pretty good with the DGLE since the fellows at the PRRTHS would scream if the color was off.
Regards, Ed
When you use the term "seems to glow", it brings up the possibility of an augmented light output above normal reflected light. That's why I brought up the subject.
But, of course, if you light the item with a source emitting only visible light, it cannot actually glow.
If the item is not glowing but has a strange color shift, that would seem to leave a really poor CRI light source. Which the sun is not, by the way.
Ed
7j43k Wow, that photo of the S2 really gets me thinking I maybe should have gotten one. Which is quite a reach for an SP&S modeler. But then, I went for the NH FL9's........ But I digress. This has the feeling of UV excitation, commonly seen when you shine a UV light on a white shirt. The UV hits the item and the energy is re-emitted at a lower frequency in visible light. See article (if you choose): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorophore The inclusion of the chemicals might be accidental or perhaps a byproduct of trying to get a color match. Ed
Wow, that photo of the S2 really gets me thinking I maybe should have gotten one. Which is quite a reach for an SP&S modeler. But then, I went for the NH FL9's........
But I digress.
This has the feeling of UV excitation, commonly seen when you shine a UV light on a white shirt. The UV hits the item and the energy is re-emitted at a lower frequency in visible light.
See article (if you choose):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorophore
The inclusion of the chemicals might be accidental or perhaps a byproduct of trying to get a color match.
There are no hobby shops anymore, besides why would I want to pay double for anything
tommymr If you don't mail order, how about bringing a UV flashlight to the place of purchase and see if what you want to buy glows? These can be had for around 10 bucks or so.
If you don't mail order, how about bringing a UV flashlight to the place of purchase and see if what you want to buy glows? These can be had for around 10 bucks or so.
I am currently replacing the LED floods in my trac lighting with LEDs that have a higher Color Rendering Index(old bulbs were rated at 80,new ones are 90+).I was unaware of "CRI" when I bought the original bulbs. Colors seem much improved to my eyes.
Mike
Just tested it in other lights, glows in all artifitial lights (had to go out of my way for an incandesent test). It even happens in natural daylight but then only at certain angles.
I have also noticed both in photographs and in eye-ball viewing of my layout that the LED wavelength can do some strange things with paint colors.
It really came to my attention recently when I placed my new PRR S1 Turbine on the rails.
In photographs the Dark Green Locomotive Enamel (Brunswick Green) looks almost light gray compared to other locomotives in the same paint.
Under incandescent light the dark green looks just like the I1s in the background.
I try to keep all my LED lighting in the 2700 to 3000K range. Still, some colors seem to look funky, especially yellows and greens...
I think some manufacturers are fudging the specs on the color spectrum of the LEDs!
This is not a typo. I have a bunch pf refers and have a few that are yellow, these seem to glow under LED light, even the ones that are painted yellow (have a few that are just plastic). These are higher end ones from Atlas. Anyone else noticed this and if so can anything be done about it or do I just sell off these. Also any other glowing to worry about with future purchaces from other companys?