If you already have the cork in place, then you must also have the turnouts on-hand, as they're generally needed to help determine where the cork needs to be placed. I'd suggest installing the turnouts first - Atlas track nails work well and allow adjustments when needed. Once the turnouts are in place, you can add cork alongside that already in place, which will provide places for your ground throws, as shown at left, below...
Follow the instructions for mounting the Caboose Industries ground throws, and pin them in place using the track nails.
Next, I'd install the rest of the track, starting at one turnout and working to the next ones, in succession. Solder all of the rail joints as you proceed.
For a DC-controlled layout of that size, you need only a pair of feeder wires. I can't see any reason why you'd need blocks on a layout of that size, but you can create isolated sections of track on which you can park locomotives - that can be done at any time, and I'll get to it later. Once all of the track is in place, and your power pack is hooked-up, run a locomotive around the layout, on all of the track, then repeat in the opposite direction. If everything seems okay, add some cars and repeat the routine. As problems turn up, fix them.
Once you have the track functioning properly, you can create some isolated sections of track. I use common rail wiring on my layout, which makes things pretty simple. If you wish to isolate a section of track, use a cut-off disc in your Dremel to cut a gap in the non-common rail. Solder a feeder wire to the portion of the rail which will remain live, run it to the fascia or your control panel where you'll have a simple on/off toggle switch. Solder the wire to one of the switch's contacts, then solder another wire to the other contact and run it to the isolated rail and solder it in place. Repeat as necessary, using a separate switch for each isolated area. I like to slip a piece of plastic into the isolation gaps and secure it with a bit of ca - this prevents the gap from closing. You can now paint the rails (and ties, if you wish). I prefer a brush for this....while it's not as quick as spraying, there's no need to mask the turnout parts needed for electrical conductivity, and you'll have better control over where the paint goes.Painting the rails is one of those "more bang for your buck than you expected" sort of things. I've used Floquil, PollyScale, and dollar store craft paint for rails, and while I liked the Pollyscale best, if you don't have any, craft paint and a 1/2" or 3/4" brush works pretty well - low cost, relaxing do-anytime kinda work which really changes the toylike appearance of the track. I use a rag to periodically wipe the dry-but-not-yet-hardened paint from the rail tops.Ballasting is pretty simple, too, and another one of those "more bang for your buck than you expected" sort of things. It's been discussed on this Forum very recently, so I won't go into too much detail. I've used Woodland Scenics ballast and real rock ballast and either works well. Use a sprayer that gives a fine mist for wetting the ballast - this is the most important step in getting satisfactory results. The wetting agent (water with a few drops of dish detergent if your water isn't too high in mineral content or denatured isopropol alcohol if it is) needs to penetrate right down to the bottom of the ballast - it is, I think, almost impossible to apply too much: Where I've applied ballast and sub-ballast cinders atop loose rip-rap rock fill, (sometimes to a depth of more than a couple of inches) the "wet" water and the equally-generous diluted white glue applied immediately after the water, pooled atop the layout's surface and took several days to dry. Once dry, though, the ballast, sub-ballast and rock fill is solidly in place and can be vacuumed directly using a shop vac. Insufficient wetting agent can cause the lighter Woodland Scenics ballast to float when the glue is applied and also prevents the glue from penetrating the ballast, and will result in a hardened crust over loose, unglued ballast. You'll discover it either with a derailment or when you clean the track.
I'm sure that you'll get some other good suggestions and please feel free to ask more questions if need be.
Wayne
When I buy a bunch of flextrack, I paint it all first, then clean the rails. Saves getting paint alll over the layout.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
LION uses NAILS. Just nail down the tracks. You can adjust them a bit as you need them.
Solder the wires as needed and test test test test it. When everything runs PURRFECTLY then ewe can thnk of paint. LION uses a water based spray paint (or a brush paint if you are not worried about the color of the ties) Mask what is not track and spray away. When dry, clean the tops of the rails with a flat putty knife.
Once done, you canthink about ballast. LION uses fine CAT LITTER and does not bother to glue it down.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I have a tabletop switching layout (7.5 x 3 feet). I have already laid my cork roadies and presently have the track "pinned" in place.
Assuming my switches will be manual (surface mounted Caboose ones), what are the next steps in permanently laying track (DC setup)?
Please reply regarding feeders, track tie painting, installation of ground throws, block wiring setup, and ballast ingredients.
It's time to start operating!
Cedarwoodron