hon30critter Larry! You have to tell us more! How was the track kept clean?!? Dave
Larry!
You have to tell us more! How was the track kept clean?!?
Dave
Dave,The only time the track was clean was during the tractor show open house and during the week of the county fair..Other then that nothing.
We used 91% alcohol,rags and metal round T shape rod for cleaning inside tunnels and other hard to reach areas.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
LION is looking for some cleaning equipment. Him needs to be careful since him has third rails that could be damaged by something that is too wide at the curves.
Him is thinking to get some candle wick, and use it to wick cleaning fluid to the wheels of the car. let the wheels clean the tracks.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
doctorwayneIf the track (and the layout) is dusty, abrasive pads, or anything else that simply pushes the dust around won't do much good. Yeah, it'll clean the rails,but how long before the dust builds up on the ties until it's as high as the top of the rails?
Doc,Here's one for you.
First close your eyes and picture a old damp cinder block building with a crack in the wall that's heated by fuel oil in the winter.You can stand next to the crack and see outside.
Got the picture?
The layout is used twice a year and the remaining time its being upgraded and can be weeks/months before being used..
Enter a member that places a train on the layout and runs it without cleaning the track and has no problems running his train.
I know this for fact because I was a member for several years..
And yes,the crack was finally filled last year.
Thanks Wayne.
Somewhere I have a small shop vac with a 1 1/2" hose. I thought of giving it to the club but that would be foolish because I'm going to need it myself, hopefully fairly soon.
Dave, I probably should have mentioned that the shop vac which I'm using isn't one meant for a construction site, where it's needed to vacuum-up 2"x4"s and cement blocks. The label on the body says 4 gallons, but they must be those puny American gallons. The hose is 1½" in diameter and the extensions for it are sized commensurately. The brush is from an old upright, oval in shape and about 2½" wide and 1½" long - a good size for doing the track and ballast shoulders in one pass.
Wayne
Nice thing about clubs is there can be a lot of labor available. We operate on two days toward the end of the month, and the Monday before ops, there is usually one guy vacuuming track with one of the lightweight vacuums mentioned and two people running track cleaning trains, one east and one west. The main is about 500' and has several sidings.
About every other month someone will get out the Big Mama shop vac (we built a cart so it rolls around easily) and do the floors. After about six months of this routine, the railroad room started staying pretty clean.
Hi Warne:
I wondered about the erasers just pushing stuff around, although they do seem to work when used on sections where the locomotives are stalling.
The layout is quite old and although the dust isn't quite up to the tops of the rails the layout is filthy. I would like to establish a routine where the track is cleaned at the beginning of every session, hence the need to consider what method(s) would be best. What happens now is that somebody will come in, put a train on the tracks and start to run it. Everyone else pretty much stands around. After repeated stalls the decision will eventually be made to clean the track, but with what? That's what I want to get the club to discuss. Let's clean the track properly first, then run trains.
I will investigate getting an adapter system for the shop vac too.
If the track (and the layout) is dusty, abrasive pads, or anything else that simply pushes the dust around won't do much good. Yeah, it'll clean the rails,but how long before the dust builds up on the ties until it's as high as the top of the rails?
In my opinion, a shop vac with the brush attachment it the best choice: it'll clean the rails, ties, and roadbed, and can also be used to clean the locomotives, rolling stock, and structures, too. The small handheld vacs usually have a vacuum head too wide for many layout situations, and the even smaller ones intended for layouts have too little capacity to do the job efficiently.While my layout is in a fairly clean environment, the only cleaning tool suitable for all layout room cleaning is my shop vac: trains, structures, track, and scenery (not the trees, though), and all general cleaning of the room, too... mostly the concrete floor, but also the occasional cobwebs which show up where walls meet the suspended ceiling. I also use the vacuum to clean dust off the top side of the clear panels under the fluorescent light fixtures.
With the club's layout subject to constant dust, it might make cleaning a little easier if, at the end of each operation session, all trains were parked in the same general area where they could all be cleaned at the same time. This would also leave the rest of the layout clear for its vacuuming session - might speed-up the job, at least.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I will discuss them the next time the club gets together.
7j43kThe only reason I can see for using an abrasive cleaner on track is if the surface is badly oxidized. And yet nickel silver's advantage over brass is supposed to be that it never oxidizes. Therefore there is never a reason to use abrasives. Like Bright Boy.
I should have mention the switch frogs seems to gather black streaks from time to time and thus the need for a bright boy.I use the end of the BB.
Of course if one does scenery work a Bright Boy will make short work of any glue,plaster or paint residue.
A Bright Boy isn't a evil thing as its portrayed to be.I been using them for over 60 years.
BRAKIE I use 91% alcohol with shotgun cleaning pads and as needed a Walthers Bright Boy.
I use 91% alcohol with shotgun cleaning pads and as needed a Walthers Bright Boy.
The only reason I can see for using an abrasive cleaner on track is if the surface is badly oxidized. And yet nickel silver's advantage over brass is supposed to be that it never oxidizes. Therefore there is never a reason to use abrasives. Like Bright Boy.
Now, if you've got dust, slime, oil, grease, filth, gunge, etc., the way to get that up is with something like 91% alcohol on a pad. Shotgun, rifle, pistol, coffee filter. Whatever.
Or vacuums. They work good on LOOSE stuff. Not on slime, oil, grease, filth, gunge, etc.
Ed
In order to see those scratches supposedly left by Bright Boys a microscope at 10x was needed so saith the article.
Oddly this article was around the time those $99.00 track cleaning cars started showing up in hobby shops.
I say lose the erasers and just use the Atlas or Bachmann (whichever you prefer or have available to you) electrically conductive lubricant--it works very well as a track cleaner and does not hurt painted finishes (excess evaporates, too).
Maybe once every couple months I quickly wipe off most track with a paper towel.
I use a little ConductaLube on the track almost every time I run. It keeps loco wheels clean for good conductivity.
John
I'm with hobo, cotton cloths with alcohol and cover the layout. the amount of dust that collects on the rails also collects on the entire layout. You are going to have a bunch of dust on the entire layout over time. bunch of guys can wipe down the track in no time. And covering the layout reduces the dust everywhere. Masonite sliders are also usefull in removing oxidation as the trains are run.
hon30critter Thanks Mel: The Harbor Freight vacuum attachment is definitely worth considering. The small hose would be much easier to control than a regular shop vac hose. Cheers! Dave
Thanks Mel:
The Harbor Freight vacuum attachment is definitely worth considering. The small hose would be much easier to control than a regular shop vac hose.
Cheers!
If it's just dust, half a dozen guys with cotton pads and alcohol should do it in a few minutes. Or maybe you could just cover the layout carefully with those thin plastic painter drop cloths from Walmart when you leave. I cover my layout with them when I go to Florida for the winter and I have a lot less dust on the layout now, when I come back.
Thanks George.
We bought this 1.5 gal Shop Vac last year for Boothbay Railway Village. It has strong suction and is light enough to carry around with one hand. Has bags for the dust Everyone likes it a lot
Got it at WalMart, Lowes and Home Depot have them as well. Cost about $35
https://www.shopvac.com/product/shop-vac-wet-dry-vac-catnum:2030127
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Graham Line:
I have looked at the Micro Engineering track cleaners but I was worried about how abrasive they might be. I'll get one to try myself.
Thanks
selector:
Never thought of a simple block of wood! Good idea. I like the price.
A small block of wood should do the trick. Just angle it forward and down to touch the rails, and then scrub. Be careful around gaps, guard rails, frogs, and points.
Micro Engineering makes a good track cleaning block that won't damage rail. Our club uses them in addition to a track cleaning train with a Masonite slider car followed by the CMX tank, and then the heavy brass roller with Handi-Wipes to clean up.
Ed:
Coffee filters! Now there's an interesting idea. I don't think the track is badly oxidized. Its just dusty.
Thanks for the suggestion of the 'Pink Pearl' erasers too.
When I use an eraser style track cleaner, I use a "Pink Pearl". It's definitely not as abrasive as a bright boy.
But, ya know, I don't think you need ANY type of abrasive stuff.
Certainly, a vacuum is something to consider. I think Atlas, for one, made one. Or you might make your own out of some sort of battery powered keyboard vacuum.
I've observed there's different kinds of track cleaning:
the rail is old nasty and oxidized--I'd try the Pink Pearl. But some sort of abrasiveness is going to be needed to clean it up.
the rail is covered with assorted gunk but is not oxidized--lately, I've been using coffee filters. They're cheap. The don't have lint (like paper towels). And they're cheap. I use the small Chemex style, which are just folded up square paper. The paper is coarse enough to do a little scraping on the rail surface, but isn't significantly abrasive.
I made a wood block the right size and tapered/rounded the appropriate corners. I cut the filter to the right size. I rub a bunch and marvel at the black stripes.
I suppose you could put some solvent on the paper, but I don't see why. Do you have something that needs disolving? Or just removing.
Hi MisterBeasley:
Vacuuming is certainly an option. There is a shop vac but I don't believe the club has a small hand held vacuum which would be much more suited to the task.
If dust is the problem and all the track is easily accessible, how about a vacuum cleaner?
I use a CMX machine with lacquer thinner as the cleaning agent. But, I've got tunnels that are awkward to reach with anything else. The CMX works very well for me, but it does take some time to loop over every track a few times. I push it back and forth over the yard tracks manually because it's quicker that way.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.