The only complaint I have seen is the lack of pulling power.
The OP can also join the Bachmann HO forums as there are people there who have this loco.
There are loads of info at the Bachmann site about their products and company reps, loco replacement info. $35.00 to replace loco.
Bachmann replaced a loco for me about five years ago. Cracked gear in a diesel.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/service.php
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/board,2.0.html
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
That's good additional info!
And yes, I agree with the final sentiment - if you have one of the later versions, it is absolutely worth fixing - I have 2 and they run very well. Last time I checked, Bachmann still sells many of the parts for the (later) K4, including the drivetrain parts.
RRR_BethBr Haven't logged on in a while, but I have 3 of these engines, and it's complicated. There are at least 3 'versions' of the Spectrum K4, and 2 with major mechanical differences. The oldest version is DC-only - you'll know you have this one if there is no electrical link between the tender and the loco - pickup is all through the loco itself. These also have bright con rods and valve gear. If you have one of these and it won't run, it's probably garbage, I'm sorry to say. These had plastic axles on all wheelsets that were prone to splitting. Once that happens on the drive wheels, they'll come un-quartered and the engine will never run again without binding. Mine now sits as a display piece above a workbench. The other two versions are the same mechanically, and are only different electrically, based on whether it's DCC-ready or DCC/Sound equipped. An electrical plug/link between the tender and loco is the giveaway for these later versions. They fixed the major design problem(s) of the earlier version, and it might be worth fixing if you have one of these and can find the problem.
Haven't logged on in a while, but I have 3 of these engines, and it's complicated. There are at least 3 'versions' of the Spectrum K4, and 2 with major mechanical differences.
The oldest version is DC-only - you'll know you have this one if there is no electrical link between the tender and the loco - pickup is all through the loco itself. These also have bright con rods and valve gear. If you have one of these and it won't run, it's probably garbage, I'm sorry to say. These had plastic axles on all wheelsets that were prone to splitting. Once that happens on the drive wheels, they'll come un-quartered and the engine will never run again without binding. Mine now sits as a display piece above a workbench.
The other two versions are the same mechanically, and are only different electrically, based on whether it's DCC-ready or DCC/Sound equipped. An electrical plug/link between the tender and loco is the giveaway for these later versions. They fixed the major design problem(s) of the earlier version, and it might be worth fixing if you have one of these and can find the problem.
Let me edit his reply:
Haven't logged on in a while, but I have 3 of these engines, and it's complicated. There are at least 4 'versions' of the Spectrum K4, and 2 with major mechanical differences.
The oldest version is DC-only - you'll know you have this one if there is no electrical link between the tender and the loco - pickup is all through the loco itself. One spotting feature is that most of the details on the engine are molded on. These also have bright con rods and valve gear. They also have plastic axles on the tender/leading truck wheels. If you have one of these and it won't run, it's probably garbage, I'm sorry to say. These had plastic axles on all wheelsets that were prone to splitting. Once that happens on the drive wheels, they'll come un-quartered and the engine will never run again without binding. Mine now sits as a display piece above a workbench.
The other three versions are the same mechanically, and are only different electrically, based on whether it's DCC-ready, DCC or DCC&Sound equipped. An electrical plug/link between the tender and loco is the giveaway for these later versions. They fixed the major design problem(s) of the earlier version, and it is definently worth fixing if you have one of these and can find the problem.
:D
Charles
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
Be advised. The worm in on the motor and drives a worm gear. Google the terms and NWSL has a geat gear planning page I have used many times where I first saw this many years ago..
While I'm not really familiar with that particular loco, there is a simple test to elimenate or narrow down the problem. Hold the loco in your hand and try to turn the drive wheels. if they won't turn then the gearing is intact up to the worm gear. That would tell me that more the likely the worm gear has become lose from the motor shaft. If you can turn the wheels then there is a broken gear, either the one on the axle or the idler gear. A worm gear by design will onle transfer power in from the worm to the gear only so if the wheels won't turn the it has to be between the worm and motor. Keep in mind that you should be able to rock the wheels back and forth a tiny bit, this is normal as that motion is just clearance in the gear train. Hope this helps, Ken
I did some searching and some answers did not say anything about cracked gears in this loco. Just not a great puller.
Maybe a gear slipping on a shaft or the metal worm stripped the plastic worm gear.
From what I can see, the worm drives an intermediate gear which drives a gear on a driver.
I have to assume this is your loco if there are no wires between the loco and tender. All wheels pickup in the older loco.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/K4_Pacific_4-6-2/bachman_n_scale_k4_pacific_4_6_2.htm
I looked up some diagrams of the loco at HO Seeker and TCS decoder site and I see a round can type motor with a worm that drives a worm gear.
Even the new Bachmann with sound still have the same drive system. No belt. Some other Bachmann locos use the belt.
The one at the TCS site is DC only.
Good chance the worm gear is split.
Opening it up is the next step.
Not knowing how they are engineered, it's also possible that the gear, which is only pressed onto the axle, has split and that the axle is spinning inside the gear. You'll need to fix the gear in place if it isn't split, or replace the entire axle/gear assembly.
Hi
If the motor is actually running while the wheels arent, then you'll have to open the engine up and make sure that the gears are touching each other.
IF the motor is stalled (not spinning but getting power, aka something is stuck) then it could be something is stopping either the gears from spinning, or the wheels from spinning.
If the motor is turning spinning freely then I would check the drive gears to ensure all are engaging.
I am not all that familiar to the K4 mechanism but,if it has the rubber drive belt then that may have broke or came loose.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Hi I have a DC bachmann spectrum K4 steam locomotive, when I add power to it and the motor turns the wheels don't, not sure what the problem might be or what test I should try, could it be that the wheels need to be aligned? thank you!