Problems with Walthers GN 2014 Empire builder set

[Bob J]

I bought new a complete Walthers reissue (2014) GN Empire Builder set, locomotives and cars.  I love the detail and build quality, but have so many problems with them, I'm reaching out to find if others have had these issues. The problem is, they just don't stay on the track.  Even the engines have problems on turnouts, and the cars regularly come off the track, its so bad I don't even run them much. I have other sets from BLI (Zephyr & SP Daylight cars) and MTH Pohattan set, and have no problems, zero, zip nada.  My track layout is a Kato HO shelf layout, well tuned, and I am not having derailments with any of my other cars or locos, and I have many. Minimum radius is 31".   The problems are the worst on curves and turnouts, (all flat, no grades).  I am not a beginner at this, and have checked the wheel guage on all of them, and they are in spec.  I suspect the swing of the trucks are too limited and/or the diaphrams are causing the issues, but I've got 31" radius curves!  I'm so dissapointed with this set, and I spent over a $1000 on it.  Anybody else with these issues?  What did you find the cause to be?  Also, they are very difficult to uncouple, you literally must lift each car with a slight twist motion to get them to separate, nothing else works.  Thank you in advance for any help.  Bob in Danville CA

[skagitrailbird]

Sorry to hear about your troubles with the Empire Builder. I have an Empire Builder train, three locos and thirteen cars, but they are from the earlier production run. I have had little trouble other than the uncoupling which, due to the closeness of the coupled cars, is difficult. But if you want virtually impossible, try using shelf couplers. (Don't ask me how I know.)

Here are some ideas:

• I converted all couplers to Kadees, with a regular length shank on one end of each car and a long shank on the opposite end. Mine are boxed up at the moment but from recollection I put the long shank on the front but I don't think it matters.
• The cars should be weighted, with each one weighing in at about seven ounces (1 ounce plus 1/2 ounce for each inch length).
• You probably know that the trucks have small screws in the bolsters that rub on small metal plates on the underside of the cars to transfer track power to the car interior for lighting. Remove the trucks and make sure none of those scres are either driven in to far or not enough, resulting in unequal weight distribution. Also check for any burs on the screw heads, filing off any you find. And make sure the little metal plates on the car undersides are flat and level.
• On the basis of your experience you have probably already checked coupler heights and assured that nothing is hanging down too far. (I would especially check for low clearances on the locomotives since you said they have some trouble going through turnouts).
• Speaking of turnouts, what frog number are the Kato turnouts? My train runs just fine through Walthers/Shinohara code 83 #5's and #6's. I have not tried running them through lower number frogs.

If none of that improves things send me a PM and we'll talk more. I couple of photos of car undersides might be useful.

 

[Bob J]

Skagitrailbird, Thank you for replying. The Kato turnouts are all #6, and the cars are all illuminated. I am suspicious of the trucks hanging up and will check them closely as well as the diaphrams. For the sake of mentioning it, the new releases that I have include Kadee like couplers with a Kadee type spring, not the plastic type, so they are supposed to be better than the first release in that regard. I will follow your suggestions and appreciate your comments. Bob

[mlehman]

Bob J

I am suspicious of the trucks hanging up and will check them closely...

You're probably on the right track. If the truck design assembles with screws that also act as contacts for the lighting circuit against a metal strip on the underside of the car floor, those screws may be the culprit. They need to be tight from the factory, but that seems to mean the screw was tightened enough to raise a little curl of metal around where the driver fits the screw head. These hang up and cause issues much the same as you describe.

Take a small file and dress the head of the screw lightly to removes these burrs. Reassemble.

[7j43k]

I've got a Walthers Blue Builder.

I've had it out on a layout.  That layout had 48" min and #8's on the main.  

The locos performed perfectly.  But I did notice coupler height problems on the cars that will need my attention before they next go out on a spin.

I would definitely check coupler height.

Wish I had something more, but I don't.

 

 

Ed