Any way to remove factory Lettering without completely removing the paint?

[wjstix]

I just used Solvaset and a pencil with an eraser on the end to remove lettering from a caboose I'm repainting. It took about 3-4 minutes to remove the lettering completely.

[stokesda]

angelob6660

 

 

stokesda

Cody brushed Micro Sol on the lettering, let it set for a while, then covered it with Scotch tape, burnished the tape over the lettering with a toothpick, and when he peeled the tape off - voila! the lettering was gone. Sometimes a second application was needed. I haven't tried this myself yet, but I have some lettering to remove on a loco shell and am planning to use this method.

 

 

 

Tell me what happens, I was wondering of doing the same thing. If it works.

 

 

Sorry for the delay in responding, but I just tried it on a newer run (hex drive motor) Blue Box SD40-2 and... it didn't work ... for me, at least. Back to the drawing board, I guess.

[wjstix]

De Luxe

I would like to replace the "Pullman" and "Missouri Pacific Lines" lettering on Walthers and Branchline Mopac heavyweights pained in Eagle scheme and apply "Texas & Pacific" lettering on them, but just until now I didn´t find a method which is safe enough to not leave any traces on the paint. It´s really frustrating, because that Eagle paint scheme is quite complicated and therefore too difficult for me to custom paint it because of all that stripes and yellow and silver trim...

 

I've used Solvaset / soft rubber pencil eraser method on several Walthers passenger cars with no problems. After removing the lettering, I wipe the model clean with a damp soft paper towel. When dry, I spray with gloss finish, add decals, then seal with flat finish. It looks fine to me, may be you could tell what was done if you really examined the car up close but on the layout it's fine.

 

Here's a pic of an old Walthers H-10-44 that came in black paint, factory decorated with yellow lettering and stripes for the Wabash. I removed all the lettering and stripes and re-lettered it for New York Central.

 

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2289588.aspx

 

 

[De Luxe]

stokesda

Cody from MR had a technique for doing this that he's covered a couple of times in the last few years, both in the magazine and (I think) in Cody's Office. He brushed Micro Sol on the lettering, let it set for a while, then covered it with Scotch tape, burnished the tape over the lettering with a toothpick, and when he peeled the tape off - voila! the lettering was gone. Sometimes a second application was needed. I haven't tried this myself yet, but I have some lettering to remove on a loco shell and am planning to use this method.

Sounds interesting and not too difficult! But look at this pic: I´m afraid to remove the yellow and sliver trim lines as well when peeling off the Scotch tape because these trim lines are so close to the lettering. And I can´t imagine cutting the Scotch tape to fit because it would be a too fussy job.

[angelob6660]

stokesda

Cody brushed Micro Sol on the lettering, let it set for a while, then covered it with Scotch tape, burnished the tape over the lettering with a toothpick, and when he peeled the tape off - voila! the lettering was gone. Sometimes a second application was needed. I haven't tried this myself yet, but I have some lettering to remove on a loco shell and am planning to use this method.

Tell me what happens, I was wondering of doing the same thing. If it works.

[wjstix]

I use Walthers Solvaset and a rubber pencil eraser. With a soft eraser, it goes slowly, but if you're patient, it will come off with no or very minimal damage to the paint below. Just work slowly and take your time.

[stokesda]

Cody from MR had a technique for doing this that he's covered a couple of times in the last few years, both in the magazine and (I think) in Cody's Office. He brushed Micro Sol on the lettering, let it set for a while, then covered it with Scotch tape, burnished the tape over the lettering with a toothpick, and when he peeled the tape off - voila! the lettering was gone. Sometimes a second application was needed. I haven't tried this myself yet, but I have some lettering to remove on a loco shell and am planning to use this method.

[De Luxe]

I would like to replace the "Pullman" and "Missouri Pacific Lines" lettering on Walthers and Branchline Mopac heavyweights pained in Eagle scheme and apply "Texas & Pacific" lettering on them, but just until now I didn´t find a method which is safe enough to not leave any traces on the paint. It´s really frustrating, because that Eagle paint scheme is quite complicated and therefore too difficult for me to custom paint it because of all that stripes and yellow and silver trim...

[hdtvnut]

Roger, I was able to use almost the same technique to remove 24 signboards from MTH coaches with no paint damage at all.  The only difference: I used pink erasers and Solvaset.

Hal

 

[gmpullman]

hon30critter

The list is for Testors products in general. Thanks though.

[edit] That IS the correct link to the MSDS that Carl provided. The name of the product is at the beginning of the document in Identification.

http://www.testors.com/en/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/primers-top-coats-thinners-cleaners/paint-and-decal-remover

I found the MSDS, Dave. It is listed as a Rustoleum product? (RPM International) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RPM_International

 

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/F542143.pdf

Primary ingredients:

Dipropylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether (75-100%) and

Isobutanol (2.5 - 10%)

I also have a can coming from Amazon. Just one more  chemical in our model railroad chemical arsenal! Micro-Mark shows it as "discontinued"

Thanks for the heads-up on the ELO, Harold!

Sorry about all the links, but it is interesting information.

Regards, Ed

 

[hon30critter]

Carl:

carl425

They have to smugle it through a tunnel under the border to get it the country.

No, I'm sure they are using a submarine made out of an old oil tanker!

Cheers!

Dave

[carl425]

hon30critter

Usually Amazon shipping is free, but not this time. I guess it's because of the nature of the product.

They have to smugle it through a tunnel under the border to get it the country.

[skagitrailbird]

I have had success removing lettering with minimal underlying paint damage by using liquid dish washing detergent (i.e. Ivory liquid or equivalent) and a plain old pinkish orange eraser on the end of a pencil. Apply a drop or two of the detergent on the lettering, then gently rub with the eraser. When the rubbing starts to get a little sticky, add another drop of detergent. Repeat until the lettering is gone.

[hon30critter]

Charles!

You da man!! 

I had tried Amazon but I guess I didn't enter the search information correctly. I just ordered a can. Bloody expensive!! (pardon my English Steven - just pretend I'm JaBear). Between the cost for the product and the shipping I'm over $40 Cdn! Usually Amazon shipping is free, but not this time. I guess it's because of the nature of the product.

I have a bunch of Athearn BB Canadian Pacific 'Spans The World' boxcars with the same number. I tried removing the # from one car and I totally messed it up. I also have two GP7s with the same number.

The trick now will be figuring how to match not only the font and size, but also the quality of printing on the Athearn boxcars. Some are really white and some are very faint. I'll have to do some experimenting with overspraying the freight car colour if I can mix up something to match.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help me find it.

All the best!

Dave

[jecorbett]

I built up a fleet of cabeese for my freelanced railroad using RTR equipment lettered for prototype roads. I tried several methods before settling on the one I'm about to describe. I take a Q-tip and wet the lettering with rubbing alcohol. Then a use Bright Boy eraser that is used to clean track. I GENTLY rub the lettering and before too long it starts to disappear. It does leave some barely noticeable abrasions on the surface but I find those disappear when I apply the decal for my road. They could probably be sanded smooth with fine grit sandpaper if need be but I have never bothered with that.

[Trainman440]

Thank you all for the replies!

NVSRR - Thanks, I will try to find some Scalecoat 2.

Jimmy Braum - I already said that in my OP. Please read the whole OP next time before replying. 

hminky(Harold) - I will certianly try to get my hands of some of that! It seems like it works great!

hon30critter - have you tried Amazon.ca? I've never tried it before as I live in the US, but they do have it...

https://www.amazon.ca/F542143-Easy-Lift-Off-Remover-OZ/dp/B000BQSKQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475530103&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+easy+lift+off

CandOsteam - Your reply confirms NVSRR's post! Thanks!

 

Charles

[CandOsteam]

Trainman440

Hi, is there any way to remove factory lettering without completely removing the paint? I am working on a few Branchline Pullman passenger cars. Branchline cars are SUPER DETAILED and cheap, I love em! 

They don't make cars in Santa Fe :/

The one's I bought are lettered for Southern, and The Pollyscale Pullman green dosen't really match, because Branchline used a really dark brown olive green. 

Is there any other method of removing lettering other than the following methods?

1. Using Solvaset (preffered) or Micro Set

2. scraping with fine sand paper

3. scraping with X acto knife

4. using an ink eracer (prefered) or plain pink eracer

Is the Pollyscale pullman green acurate? 

Will I have to repaint the whole car? (I already built the whole car....) The poly scale pullman green dosen't match my car whatsoever...

Thanks

Charles

 

Charles,

I have built 12 of BL Heavyweight cars and agree, they are nice.  They have a few niggles, but that is for another thread. 

 

To your questions, first the good news.  Scalecoat II pullman green is a very close match.  Yeah, PS pullman green is too green and not brown enough.

 

The not so good news is that I tried everything to remove the pad printed (read painted) lettering to no avail.  You can try using an abrassive method and just hit the letter board when you repaint and the match with SC pullman green should be satisfactory.

 

Joel

[hon30critter]

Carl:

Thanks for the safety data sheet.

I have checked most  all of the suppliers listed but so far nobody carries the specific product. The list is for Testors products in general. Thanks though.

Edit: I just spent 30 minutes searching for the ELO decal remover. Apparently no one in Canada carries it and no one will ship ELO across the border.

Dave

[carl425]

hon30critter

Any idea what the active chemical(s) is in the ELO?

Here's the safety data sheet:

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/F542143.pdf

 

[hon30critter]

Harold:

Any idea what the active chemical(s) is in the ELO? Apparently the product is not available in Canada.

Can I ask where you bought it?

Thanks

Dave

[hminky]

Have found that Testor's Easy Lift Off (ELO) is the best at removing lettering:

On a new Bachmann HO 4-4-0 tender:



On30 cars:



Sometimes it requires a second applicaation:



But eventually it is all gone:



Use a Q-tip.

Have tried all those other methods and none work better than ELO.

Harold

[Jimmy_Braum]

Try solvaset. It works on Walthers lettering, so it might work there. 

[NVSRR]

Polly scale is not accurate.   Look at either tru scale or scale coat 2 for an accurate match

[dknelson]

Any method of doing this is a skill that takes practice which in turn means finding some lettered cars (freight or passenger or whatever) presumably from your own scrap pile or cheap at a swap meet to practice on.

Isopropyl alcohol removes both lettering and paint.  It is a very tricky operation to get it just right.  I suggest getting 50% isopropyl alcohol rather than 70% or 90%  (50% is inexpensive at WalMart).  Apply it with a micro brush (one of those tiny Q tip type things) rather precisely on the lettering itself and rub with the microbrush very very gently.  Nothing will seem to happen -- that is good.  Wash it off with distilled water and let dry.   Do it again and you should notice some lettering start to be rubbed off.  Don't shoot for the moon.  Stop at a little and again rinse it all off with distilled water.  Try a third time and more and maybe all of the lettering should come off - be prepared to rinse again with distilled water and let dry. It may take more than 3 steps.

But again -- practice this with lesser cars before you tackle that Branchline model.  You MIGHT want to mask off the area around the lettering with masking liquid to contain the alcohol.  

https://www.walthers.com/micro-mask-liquid-masking-tape-1oz-29-6ml

But don't let the masking liquid sit for too long on the car surface.  remove and renew.

Dave Nelson

 

[Trainman440]

Hi, is there any way to remove factory lettering without completely removing the paint? I am working on a few Branchline Pullman passenger cars. Branchline cars are SUPER DETAILED and cheap, I love em! 

They don't make cars in Santa Fe :/

The one's I bought are lettered for Southern, and The Pollyscale Pullman green dosen't really match, because Branchline used a really dark brown olive green. 

Is there any other method of removing lettering other than the following methods?

1. Using Solvaset (preffered) or Micro Set

2. scraping with fine sand paper

3. scraping with X acto knife

4. using an ink eracer (prefered) or plain pink eracer

Is the Pollyscale pullman green acurate? 

Will I have to repaint the whole car? (I already built the whole car....) The poly scale pullman green dosen't match my car whatsoever...

Thanks

Charles