Ken Patterson suggested using an ultrasonic cleaner for mixing paints. I see no reason why it wouldn't break up clumps in the paint. It might also take the labels off the jars, so plan accoridingly.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
If the paint is really thick and you can't get a mixer or anything similar in the paint, just put the distilled water in and let it sit for a while. The water will work its way into the paint and thin the clump out. (I have done this with some of my Polly S/Scale paints and it has worked very well.)
Awesome! Thanks for the info guys!
I use water from my dehumidifier, which is similar in nature to distilled water. Adding it by-the-drop will work fine, as you simply want to get the paint back to its original consistency.
Wayne
Thanks Wayne! I suppose distilled water would be best? Couple of drops?
You should also be aware that Polly S and Polly Scale, which superseded the former, are not the same paint, even though they were from the same company.I've found that some colours of Polly S handled much better than some others, as far as ease of use and coverage, while all of the Polly Scale which I ever used performed equally well. I think that it's unfortunate that Testors chose to keep their own Model Masters brand rather than Polly Scale, which was superior in all aspects.As for thickening or hardening in the bottle, it can happen to any paint, especially if the container isn't tightly sealed. Some can be salvaged, as Dave has outlined, and it also helps to add a bit of thinner (water for both Polly S and Polly Scale) to replace that which was lost to evapouration.
Thanks for the advice Dave!!
Hi racer_x5150:
I have about 25 old Polly Scale jars and the paint still works fine. Most of them I have had for about 12 years, and heaven knows how old they were when I bought them. The clumping is nothing unusual. It's just the pigments settling out of the liquid.
I use a Badger battery powered mixer to stir the paint. I find that for jars where the paint is really thick on the bottom it is best to loosen the sludge without the mixer turned on until the clump is free of the bottom of the jar. Otherwise the mixer has to work really hard to dislodge the thickened paint.
Here is one example of the type of mixer that I use:
http://www.micromark.com/cordless-mixer-for-model-paints,7616.html
Just remember one thing about the rotary mixers - they will throw paint all over the place if you lift them out of the jar while they are still running. Even the shaft will throw paint so keep the mixer in the bottom of the jar. Don't ask me how I know that!
It is a good idea to filter the paint after mixing. Any remaining clumps will plug up your airbrush. Don't ask me how I know that either!!
My jars seem to have lost very little liquid over time, but if the paint has dried out a bit I don't think it would matter too much. Obviously it will have to be thinned but that is necessary for new jars too if you are airbrushing. However, if the paint has turned to jelly then I think you might have lost or spoiled a lot of the binders that keep the paint stuck to the model so the paint might not stand up to handling very well. I'm spectulating on that. As I said, I've never had a jar where the liquid seemed to have dried up much at all.
Regards
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I have about 2 dozen jars of Polly S that are about 10 years old. They have been used, and then resealed. I opened a few up and they have clumps at the bottom of the jar. Is there any way that I can bring this paint back to life?