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A way to make your model railroad wiring simpler to trouble shoot.

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  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 5:10 AM

Here is a close up of Mel made polarized connectors using male SIP pins.
 
  
 
The solder end of a female pin measures .022” and the male contact pin measures .0235” for a tighter fit into the female socket.
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 4:35 AM

Thanks for the details Mel.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 4:23 AM

Dave:
 
I use my long nose pliers to push the connector through the housing/strip from the solder end.  I’ve also used the male SIP pins in the female housing/strip, that keeps the soldering side of the connectors the same.
 
Edit: The male SIP contact pins are a tad larger in diameter than the reverse side of the female pin so they fit tighter in the female pin. 
 
 
For a reversed pin to seat properly I use a #49 drill as a countersink so the pin fits flush.  A dob of super glue will insure the pin stays put.
 
For the 8 pin NMRA version I use a dob of red paint on the housing at pin 8 (red wire).
 
 
On the inside of my locomotives between the shells and components I color code each pin on the strip for easy ID using the standard NMRA colors.  Blue=decoder accessory +, White=headlight, ect…
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 3:57 AM

Mel:

I use the pin strips too, but I didn't know that the individual pins could be switched 180 degrees to maintain proper orientation of the plugs. Thanks for that.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, September 18, 2016 3:29 PM

 

The standardization between locomotives really helps too.  Most of my SP articulateds use the same type oil tender so they are interchangeable.  The SP put the engine number on the rear of their oil tenders so that’s how I address the decoders, by tender number.  I only have three oil tenders with DCC decoders installed so I swap tenders between 19 locomotives.
 
 
This is my configuration.  The connectors are wired to the standard NMRA 8 pin connector.  The dual row 80 pin SIP pin connector strips cut to 8 pins are directly compatible to the standard NMRA DCC 8 pin connectors.  I standardized all my steam locomotives with the red wire (pin 8) on the lower right corner.
 
 
I made me a DCC Tester that will plug into the locomotive or inside a tender for testing the wiring from the decoder connector all the way to the motor and lights.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Sunday, September 18, 2016 1:24 PM

 I have been using them for quite some time now......but I am a little lazy, instead of making My own, I buy them already made, with 8'' leads. Anything that I want to be removeable I have been using them on and really quite robust for their size:

http://lights4models.com/index.php/wire-connectors/wc10-wire-connectors.html

I'm not rich...but I'm not poor either.

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Sunday, September 18, 2016 12:59 PM

For sometime now, I've been using similar connectors between my DC-controlled locomotives and tenders, most of which use all-wheel current collection.


The first ones used a joined pair of male connectors on the locomotive mated to a joined pair of female connectors, wire-mounted, on the tender.  The excess wire is simply stuffed into the tender, beneath the modelled coal bunker.  I drilled shallow holes in one mating set of the plastic insulators and filled them with red paint to ensure proper polarity.

Putting the male connectors on the locomotive allows me use jumper wires  from a workbench powerpack, obviating the need to remove the superstructure for simple maintenance such as lubrication of the running gear.

Most of my subsequent installations put the female receptacles right on the tender's frame...

...which allows the wires to look more like the hose connections between tender and locomotive:

This modified Bachmann Ten Wheeler got the same treatment:

I bought mine at a nearby electronics supply warehouse, but they were apparently phasing out those particular items when I last visited.  It's good to know that they're still available elsewhere, even though the price is quite a bit higher.

Wayne

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
A way to make your model railroad wiring simpler to trouble shoot.
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, September 18, 2016 9:50 AM

Several years ago I made a great find, SIP micro connectors (Single In-line Package).  I now use them for almost everything on my layout.  Using the micro connectors is very cost efficient too.  The cost per contact is about 2¢ to 3¢ each when bought in 40 pin strips off eBay at $7 for ten 40 pin connector strips, that’s 400 connector pins for $7.
 
 
The 40 pin SIP connector strips are “breakable” (actually I use a Atlas Snap Saw) to get any contact arrangement.  The pins are removable from the strip housing so they can be easily removed and turned 180° to make a set of polarized connectors to prevent accidental reversal.
 
 
I made a bunch of adapters for easy trouble shooting that puts an end to having to use alligator clips that are way to big or continuously falling off.
 
 
I used chassis test jack connectors to make it easy to use a multimeter.  I used Styrene tubing and Styrene sheet stock to make the test probe adapters.
 
 
I have installed the connectors in my locomotives, MOW cars, passenger cars and cabooses.  I use them between the shells and the frame or chassis to eliminate messy wiring.  The shells just drop on with no wiring to contend with.  A simple extension cord will to connect the shell to the bottom for testing.
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
 
 
 
 

 

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