I have been having a problem of the springs falling out, is there a way to prevent this? It seems to be happening more often.
If I find the springs there is no way for me to put them back in. My eyesight and non steady hands just don't allow it anymore.
Any help would be appreciated.
Dave
Genuine Kadees or clones? I seldom have problems with springs falling out of the real ones.
Kadee does make a tool that makes insertion a bit easier. It's not much more than a thin screwdriver with a 1/8 inch wide blade, though.
Some folks run a thread through a loop or two of the spring to make it possible to find it again if it falls while you're putting it in.
A bit of tacky glue on one end will hold the spring in place and might make it easier to get it installed as well.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
DAVID FORTNEYI have been having a problem of the springs falling out, is there a way to prevent this? It seems to be happening more often.
I have had several springs to fall out and some times one is missing on a new coupler so,I use the KD spring pick and replace them.I add a tiny drop of super glue on the rear spring holder and then insert the spring.
Like you I have shaky shake hands so,I place the coupler in a small 3 1/2" aluminum jewelers vise and use the spring pick to insert the spring.
I found for me that's far better then two objects being shaken about while replacing the spring.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Back in the '50s, when I got my start in HO, I was using Kadee's K-type mechanically-activated couplers. When I had a few instances of the knuckle springs "springing free", my father suggested a very small dab of contact cement on one of the mounting pegs used for those springs. Let the contact cement dry for a couple of minutes (not as long as you would if using it as actual contact cement) then install the spring. This method works very well, and I still have some of those couplers in service on my MoW equipment, springs still in place and working.
To install the springs (and the similar but slightly stronger ones used in sprung strucks), I've always used an X-Acto #11 blade. Slip the pointed end, sharp side first, between the tightly-spaced coils at either end of the spring, then place the free end of the spring onto the peg located in the coupler's knuckle. Next, using the knife, compress the spring slightly by pushing it towards the just-installed end, then place the pointy end into the space by the other peg, with the side of the blade against the end of that peg. This allows the one or two tightly-wound coils on the knife-end of the spring to properly align with the peg, and you can then carefully withdraw the blade.
For truck springs, the method is similar, although you usually need to hold the sideframe and bolster in tight contact while installing both springs on each sideframe.
I have several cabooses with sprung trucks, but like to install PSC's phosphor bronze leaf springs in them. Unfortunately, the springs often need to be re-shaped and compressed in order to fit properly, and this causes them to lose springiness, making them prone to falling out. I solved this issue by using the method outlined above to re-install the original coil springs within the leaf spring:
Wayne
doctorwayneTo install the springs (and the similar but slightly stronger ones used in sprung strucks), I've always used an X-Acto #11 blade. Slip the pointed end, sharp side first, between the tightly-spaced coils at either end of the spring, then place the free end of the spring onto the peg located in the coupler's knuckle. Next, using the knife, compress the spring slightly by pushing it towards the just-installed end, then place the pointy end into the space by the other peg, with the side of the blade against the end of that peg. This allows the one or two tightly-wound coils on the knife-end of the spring to properly align with the peg, and you can then carefully withdraw the blade.
That how I've done it myself for as long as I can remember. KD springs seldom come off, but then they do, the above works well for me.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
A riny drop of adhesive on the spring will keep them in place. I use Duco cement, but other adhesives will work too.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Thanks guys I just used some of the tricks recommended and guess what, it worked. I like the use of some tacky glue, it worked for me.
I like the KD tool better than the #11 blade with the thread trick. In 16 years of storage and 3 moves, a lot of springs have fallen out. I also use an optivisor and don't do more than a handful at a sitting.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I use the #16 blade instead of the #11. Down where it enters the coils of the spring, it's got more metal, so there's more for the spring to grab onto.
With this setup, I rarely lose a spring.
I don't use any glue. Once the spring is on the coupler nubs, it's unlikely to come off again, glue or not. And if you DON'T get it on the nubs, then I think glue isn't going to solve the problem.
I've received Kadees without springs. And obviously I've installed new springs on them. But I've NEVER had a spring come out after the coupler is mounted. Well, maybe if I was futzing in the coupler mount area. But not on the layout or just sitting there.
I expect the reason I receive the occasional springless coupler is (1) the spring was installed improperly, (2) the spring got joggled loose by the other couplers in the package, or (3) a defective casting or assembly, so that the spring can't fully seat.
Of course, with (3), you'll likely still have problems if you can get a spring in. But I surely don't recall a defect lately. If ever. But it COULD happen. To you. Or me.
Kadee couplers are almost boringly well made and reliable. In this case, boredom is a good thing.
Ed
For the best spring pick (or grabber), get the MicroMark one:http://www.micromark.com/spring-grabber,7636.html
The reason why it is superior to the red Kadee pick or the yellow Kadee pick is that the red pick has a seam at the end. I have found I have to kind of wiggle the Kadee pick into the spring because the seam can get stuck on the spring wire. The yellow pick is better, but the "ball" at the end of the pick does not hold the spring very securely.The MicroMark pick is all metal, and the end is formed (or stamped) without a seam (it comes to a point). The "ball" of the pick is larger than the yellow pick, meaning that the spring stays on the pick quite easily.
Paul3 For the best spring pick (or grabber), get the MicroMark one:http://www.micromark.com/spring-grabber,7636.html
That looks like a great tool for the springs and other small parts. I need all the help I can. That will be on my next order.
Thanks Paul for pointing it out.
I have to say, the only knuckle springs I have had fall out of kadees is when the car they were on took a tumble. I remember back when I first started using them, the bulk packs came with most if not all of them NOT installed, the newer bulk packs I have gotten in the past few years, it's an odd one that DOESN'T have the spring. Unless it's my last one, I'll set those aside to put the springs in later and grab another one.
My eyes are pretty poor as well, bifocals now and if I remember from what they said at my recent appointment at least one side my lenses are a -11. And now I have some glaucoma related unreversible damage in my right eye which makes for fuzzy spots regardless of the corrective lenses. As I just discovered doing some fine circuit board soldering, even with my huge and bright magnifier lamp (had it many years now, it's a larger diameter lense than you commonly find AND a stronger power), I am going to have to learn some compensating methods. While I could focus on the point of soldering well enough, the haze from the right eye messed up my depth perception and so there were times I thought I was feeding the solder into the joint and I was way off (under magnification - in reality I was less than 1/2" away from the target). I did manage to complete the task without melting anything or even worse, burining myself witht he soldering iron, so it will just take some practice.
SO how does that relate to Kadee springs? Well, even with the magnifier, or with an Optivisor, in the past I've always had to just bypass the glasses and hold the couple an inch or so from my face to be able to reliably get the spring in place. I use the knife blade trick to pick up a spring, the hold it up close and look over (or just take off) my glasses, at about 2" or so from my face everything is crystal clear in sharp focus and I can easily see the nubs that the spring fits over. I rarely miss on the first try doing it this way, unless the spring falls off the knife. Then I just get another one out of the supply, because if the fallen one has hit the floor it will NEVER be found.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I also use the #11 Exacto blade to install coupler springs.
But I also have a pack of spare springs handy.
BigDaddy I like the KD tool better than the #11 blade with the thread trick. In 16 years of storage and 3 moves, a lot of springs have fallen out. I also use an optivisor and don't do more than a handful at a sitting.
Me too on both, the KD tool and the optivisor.
I haven't had much time to build the many freight car kits that I have, but I can say that I have had much practice installing those springs on used equipment that had the springs missing or on equipment of my own that had the springs fall off. I like the idea of the adhesive when installing and I definitely will try that next time I need to install springs in couplers.
Clear parts cement (canopy glue) will help coupler springs stay in place. I use the Kadee tool, and also have some fine, flat-tipped tweezers that are used as a spring compressor. Can't remember where I got them.