painting my first engine

[Anonymous]

I have this old GP38-2 shell painted for burlington. Ugly beast. Ive been in the hobby for several years now and i want to expand my horizons. Im planning on painting this shell for my railroad the Southcross & Western. I made a few designs for different engines. if you have any suggestions for painting please post them.

[AntonioFP45]

One of my absolute favorite modern paint schemes is from a regional railroad known as the Arizona & California Railroad. (Green, White, & Yellow).

This scheme, IMHO, looks nice on EMD hood units. You could paint your Geep in this scheme as a "marketing trial" unit like some railroads have done before. (CSX did this when they went to the yellow, blue, and gray back in the late 80s---and of course it was a hit as most people did not like the "Stealth" scheme.)

If you're not familiar with the scheme go to www.railpictures.net and then on the
"Enter Keywords" box type in Arizona & California. Some very impressive shots including an SD45.

What do you think?

[Anonymous]

well, sounds good, but i have already designed a paint scheme for my freelance railroad. southcross & western, if i could sort out how to post a pic ill show you.

[Anonymous]

here it is, looks much better if you click on it

[Wdlgln005]

For practice, get some cheap boxcars or cabeese & paint them in your scheme. Check out old issues of MR's Paint Shop column for painting tips. You might find other multi-color roads interresting. In order to get the yellow correct, you may need a base of white primer first, Then mask & paint the yellow, with red on top & last.

[Anonymous]

thats what i was planning, yellow then red, its already primed white.

[Anonymous]

You didn't mention how you were going to paint it. I assume you are going to airbrush it, although I have gotten good resusts from spray paints before. Even painting it with a brush will work if you are careful to try not leave any brush stroke marks. You will enjoy this new aspect of the hobby. It always gives me great satisfaction to sit back and look at a custom paint job and be able to say I did that myself.

[PennsyHoosier]

My points have already been made by the others. I assume you will be using an airbrush. Is that right? If so, what kind? Different brushes handle different paints differently. [:D]

I must admit, you're braver than I am. I have two engines that are waiting to be painted--but I keep chickening out. Let us know how things go--maybe it will help me work up some courage. [:I]

[Anonymous]

i dont have an airbrush, since my paint sceme is only 2 primary colors i thought i would just buy some cans of spray paint red and yellow. is that a bad idea?

[Anonymous]

here it is all primed and ready for paint.

[AggroJones]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JPM335

i dont have an airbrush, since my paint sceme is only 2 primary colors i thought i would just buy some cans of spray paint red and yellow. is that a bad idea?

Technically, that will work. But it'll be hard to control the eveness of the paint. Its impossible to make a layer as thin as an airbrush with a spray can. You'll be better off airbrushing. Mabey you can barrow one from a friend or somthing.

[ericsp]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

One of my absolute favorite modern paint schemes is from a regional railroad known as the Arizona & California Railroad. (Green, White, & Yellow).

California Northern has the same paint scheme. Also, two of its GP15-1s have been transfered to San Joaquin Valley Railroad.

[AntonioFP45]

JPM,

Don't chew me out too badly, but it "sounds like" you may be a little intimidated by the airbrush (as I was at first)[;)]. Believe me when I tell you that once you use an airbrush and practice on just one scrap car, you'll likely never want to use a spray can again!!!!!

I used spray cans in the past. My best jobs were still a little rough or "orange peely". After switching to an airbrush I was amazed at how easy it was to use. In my hobby room I have spray cans of dull coat, white paint, and clear that have been sitting on the shelf for years!............and very likely I won't use them.

If money is an issue, you can get one of the cheap beginner brushes from Wal-Mart. If you want to go for the durable quality, save up your money and get something like a Badger 150 or a Paasche VL.

For no hassle paint that you won't have to thin down, use Badger's ModelFlex.

I've seen it happen with my wife's cousin who wanted nothing to do with airbrushes. Once he painted his first locomotive......he went "Ga-Ga"[:p][:p] and started painting and weathering stuff left and right!

The paint scheme that you've selected for your locomotive is beautiful. Take the extra time and do it right. You can drop "hints" to your loved ones and let them know that for a Christmas present they can find a Badger or Passche airbrush at hobby shops or art supply stores!

Peace and Cheers!

[Anonymous]

airbrush price is not so much the problem, its the compressor. most people reccomend a tank for even flow right? cheapest one with a tank ive found was around $200. i would also need some kind of regulator right?

[Gordon Bremner]

I don't have any suggestions regarding painting... I think you are on your own on this one

Gord Bremner

[Gordon Bremner]

I have the November, December and January issue in my home now purchased from
George's trains in Toronto. Best Regards

Gord Bremner

[Gordon Bremner]

I will get the February Issue at George's Trains as soon it is available
Thank you
Gord Bremner

[Gordon Bremner]

How much is a years suply of Model Railroader. I am in Canada... if the price is cheaper
than buying it a George's trains please let me know???
Gord Bremner
[e-mail]

[Anonymous]

ok, went out and picked up an airbrush starter set for about $60. Practiced on some newspaper and now im mad at myself for ever using spray paint[xx(]. What i have runs off cans of compressed air. maybe one of these days ill upgrade to a compressor but this is fine for now. Anyway, is it just me or do these things really take 20 minutes to clean[X-)]

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JPM335

ok, went out and picked up an airbrush starter set for about $60. Practiced on some newspaper and now im mad at myself for ever using spray paint[xx(]. What i have runs off cans of compressed air. maybe one of these days ill upgrade to a compressor but this is fine for now. Anyway, is it just me or do these things really take 20 minutes to clean[X-)]

Hey JPM,[:D]

Glad you're giving it a chance! The more you practice the better you'll get! Regarding the compressor. I have a small electric compressor with NO TANK and it still manages to maintain a steady 25 p.s.i. I usually spray at 15 to 20 p.s.i. Yes, a tank is very good as it helps extend your compressor's life and assures a good supply of air. A tank should definitly be added in the long run but it's not required!

Since the compressor runs continuously, water will build up in the airline so a quality water trap must be be installed inline, otherwise you'll see water droplets shooting out of your airbrush. I spliced my water trap on the airline and have not had a problem.

In the last 2 years I've switched to using Acrylic Paints like Badger ModelFlex or Polly Scale. Cleaning my airbru***akes me 1 to 2 minutes. I pour Isopropyl Alcohol in my jar, shake it up and then flush my airbrush out. I then gently remove the needle and give it a wipe with an alcohol soaked cloth. I also check the aircap for dried paint and wipe it. I'm done! That's another great advantage of Acrylic (waterbased) paints. No long, cleaning up hassle! [:D][8D]

Now, if you do use a Solvent Based paint like Scale Coat II or Floquil then yes, cleaning will take just a little longer. The only solvent painting I do is metalizing with Alclad II chrome, which is great for making passenger cars look like real stainless steel.

Overall, once you get used to it, cleaning your equipment is effortless! [swg][tup]

As for painting: First, prior to painting make sure your model's surface is CLEAN! One mistake many newbies will make (I did too!) is that they will scrub a model throughly with a toothbrush, soap and water. Then after it's dry and ready for airbrushing, they handle it with SWEATY or OILY HANDS! That's a major No-No! There's no shame in wearing latex gloves.

I know how tempting it is to jump on your first airbrush project. PLEASE, practice on some "material" first. I have 3 junker HO Bachmann boxcars and a locomotive shell that I use as "Test Subjects".

I've been painting for over 20 years and still before every paint job, I will always take about 30 seconds and shoot the walls of one of these junk cars just to make sure my paint is:
(1) Not too thin or runny.
(2) Not too rough or dry.
(3) My distance is not too close or too far.
(4) And most importanly, that I'm feeling relaxed.

BTW: If your paint looks rough than either get your airbrush closer to your subject, lower your air pressure or thin your paint. If you choose Polly Scale, thin it 15% (not 25% as was once recommended. With ModelFlex, no thinning is needed. This is why it's good to practice first. You'll develop your own style as time progresses.

Opinions vary on this, but it's good to use a quality primer on a bare shell. You want to make sure that the paint will have a "hard bite" so that when you mask your model for other colors, the paint won't come up when you remove the tape.

Take your time and let us know how you're doing! [;)]

God Bless and Cheers!

[Anonymous]

yes the engine is primed. but about this water in the line? If i had a compressor with a tank would it be a problem. and where do i get a water trap?

Im going to have to try the alchohol, i was just using water. its water base paint it made sense at the time[xx(]. im going to pick up some model flex paint next time i make a trip to the LHS, should be this weekend.

PS- never put white handrails on the paper where you primed them white and leave them, was headed out this morning and i stepped on one, the long one of course, with the parts you stick in the shell facing up. handrails are ok only a little bloody. Same for my foot actually.[B)] lots of band aids though for all those little holes.

[Anonymous]

well, i took the plunge... i bought a compressor tonight. Its got a 2 gal tank and runs up to 140 psi (not that ill ever use more than 40) but it seems to be just what i need.

now, where can i get an adapter for my airbrush hose?

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JPM335

well, i took the plunge... i bought a compressor tonight. Its got a 2 gal tank and runs up to 140 psi (not that ill ever use more than 40) but it seems to be just what i need.

now, where can i get an adapter for my airbrush hose?

JPM,

Wow! Way to go! [:)][:D][8D][8)]

Since you're in San Antonio, [C):-)][tup]see if this helps:

Herweck's:
300 Broadway
San Antonio Texas Tel: [phone]

HobbyTown USA
1201 Austin Hwy, Suite 102
San Antonio, Texas. Tel: [phone]

You can try the above mentioned hobbyshops. When in a pinch, I've found fittings for airhoses and paint guns at hardware stores.

BTW: [;)] If you didn't get one, make sure you get a walter trap/filter. If these shops don't carry the water trap or fittings you need, go to a professional Automotive Paint Supplier. If you can't find one in the phone book, just stop by or call ANY Body Shop and ask a manager or painter where they buy their paint gun equipment from.

Cheers to you and have fun! Keep in touch with your progress.

[Anonymous]

well my compressor says all the water is trapped in the tank, there is a little water valve you open after each use. Ive been to those hobby shops before and ill look this weekend, i usually use dibbles but i havent seen them there. not that ive ever really looked...

[Anonymous]

i got 2 coats of yellow paint down today, looks pretty good to me



by the way, heres my compressor if you were wodering what i bought

[Anonymous]

WHOA! That's a beast of a compressor! Nice job on your painting, too.

[AntonioFP45]

JPM,

That compressor looks like it came from a "Prototype Locomotive!" What a beauty!

Your locomotive looks good! Give it ample time to dry for masking. Unlike spray cans, the paint does take a tad longer to cure. Some modelers wait from 30 minutes to a few hours and "go at it". Unless I'm in a hurry, I prefer to wait at least a day.

Re: Your tank.

Yes, you can still "crack open" the valve and drain water. I did this trick years ago with a larger compressor that I had. However, water droplets will still manage to get blown through the air hose to the airbrush I've seen this happen so many times. No need to get the fancy $60 filters that couple onto the compressor itself. A typical "inline" water filter goes for about $15 or less. It's worth it!

Take your time, thanks for the photos, and please keep us posted with your progress! In case you haven't realized it, you'll very likely inspire some of the other modelers on here that are hesitant to try airbrushing. So you're a role model now!

Peace, Cheers, and High Greens!

[Anonymous]

i masked it and sprayed the red, ill post pics as soon as i can