Hello all,
I was replacing a dried, cracked, tube-type drive-line on a vintage HO scale 60-ton box cab diesel/electric.
I went into Caboose Hobbies; in Denver, Colorado, and asked the fellow working the service department if they had any drive-line tubing.
He rummaged around the back for a while and came out with a small roll. He cut me off a piece and handed it to me.
I asked him what I owed? He showed me the spool which read, "Do not sell."
He said to me, with a wink, "Nothing, I can't sell it to you."
That's why I'll drive almost two-hours to support them.
Another drive-line fix I recall seeing was using two small pieces of square brass stock; K&S Precision metals 1/8-inch (#8151) and 3/32-inch (#8150), nested inside each other, with R/C fuel lines connecting them to the motor shaft and worm-gear shaft on each end.
The reason for using the square stock nested together is to allow for the independent movement of the gear tower from the motor in a diesel locomotive.
A secondary plus is when servicing the drive-line you don't have to remove the fuel line linkage; stretching them out of shape, every time. The square stock simply slips apart.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
RC gas engine fuel line will work...weed wacker fuel line will work. I have those on all My brass Balboa engines...for about the past 30yrs now and they still work.
Take Care!
Frank
sanduskyI have a locomotive which needs some help holding a split coupling onto the motor shaft.
Hi,
Is it possible to use a silicone tube type coupling?
For years this was the "standard" flexible couplong, although back-in-the-day there was only synthetic rubber or neoprene. Today's silicone is much more durable, resilient and flexible. I have replaced many "crusty" rubber sleeves with this stuff very successfully.
In the example above I'm going from a 1.5mm motor shaft to a 5/64" worm shaft with no slippage or compromise. As long as you don't have to span too long of a gap the wall thickness of the tubing will keep everything aligned without twisting.
Greenway Products sells it:
http://greenwayproducts.com/brass-builders-corner-trackside-specialties/flexdrive-tubing-clone/
I bought some from an ebay seller a few years back and if I remember the seller I'll post it here.
Believe it or not... the forum search WORKED!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-Silicone-tubing-for-Hobbytown-and-brass-locos-Excellent-Best-Ive-used-new-/162119120151?hash=item25bf0d7517:g:lUoAAOSwNyFWgy0z
Thanks to Darth Santa Fe for suggesting this seller to me!
Good Luck, Ed
hon30critter Mel: I use what sounds like a similar 'goop' called "Gluezit". The tube has some advice on it which tells how to prevent the long strings. They suggest holding the tube an inch or two away from the surface after you have applied the glue. A short string will form, but if you give that string a couple of seconds to start to harden, then pull the tube away quickly, the string will break. It works. It might work with your stuff too. Dave
Mel:
I use what sounds like a similar 'goop' called "Gluezit". The tube has some advice on it which tells how to prevent the long strings. They suggest holding the tube an inch or two away from the surface after you have applied the glue. A short string will form, but if you give that string a couple of seconds to start to harden, then pull the tube away quickly, the string will break. It works. It might work with your stuff too.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Ach... Even CHEAP LIONS go to NWSL for remotoring projects.
On Layout of LION (read Walthers/Life-Like Subway cars) him replaces the MOTORS! No 2032D-9 is a direct replacement. The connector that you are worried about is very tightly press fit into the fly wheels. LION uses a pulley and gear puller (about two sizes too large from our powerhouse shop--NWSL has a smaller won intender for MR use) to remove the flywheels from the motor shafts. Him used a vice as a pressure source to force the flywheels onto the new motor. Of course you must do it carefully, one will be seated before the other, so a shim is required to block the first while the second is driven home.
The NWSL motor simply drops into the brackets that held the old motor, although some trimming of the bracket is required to allow room for the new moto contacts. BTW : The side with the red dot is connected to the right rail in the unit's forward direction.
Perfection does not come any more simply.
If NWSL cannot fix youir problem, the trash can can.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Seeing as how Loctite is a name brand...It probably would help the OP, if You said which type You would recommend. There is a thread loc, epoxy, super glue, 243, 242, GO2, ETC. Just saying!
I personnally would try to find a replacement, if cracked.
I've tried ACC; regular and thick, MEK, Micro-Mark Same Stuff, Loctite Red, two part epoxy and none worked.
For me the only thing that repaired a cracked coupling was to use a section of brass tube as a sleeve over the cracked part.
I haven't found an adhesive that will fully repair a cracked coupling. Some have held for a few minutes of run time, while some failed as I pushed the coupling onto the shaft.
If you don't want to go the NWSL (I can't imagine why) route you might try eBay to see if you can find the same model for parts.
Unfortunately, you might find that the model you purchased for parts has the same cracked couplings.
NWSL replacement... Don't mess with attempting to glue delrin. It will cause a bigger headache than anything else.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
sandusky I have a locomotive which needs some help holding a split coupling onto the motor shaft. The loco is long out of production, there is little chance of finding a replacement and I am not interesting in trying a NWSL fix...
I have a locomotive which needs some help holding a split coupling onto the motor shaft. The loco is long out of production, there is little chance of finding a replacement and I am not interesting in trying a NWSL fix...
Is there a reason you are adversed to using NWSL replacement drive shafts?
I replaced the silicone tubing drive shaft in my early 90s Walthers SW1 with a NWSL kit and it's worked great. It's not that difficult of a conversion and it would be a lot better than a make-shift repair that probably won't hold up very long.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Try a drop of Lok-tite on the tip of the shaft before placing the coupling. Of course, whichever fixative you use you need to avoid getting it in the motor bearing.
I have a locomotive which needs some help holding a split coupling onto the motor shaft. The loco is long out of production, there is little chance of finding a replacement and I am not interesting in trying a NWSL fix or fashioning a coupling myself. What glue has a good chance of working? I have pliobond (like goo) on hand, some ACC, but glad to to buy a highly recommended glue.