Steven S If you don't mind a little tinkering, you can build a DCC base unit out of an Arduino clone and a motor shield for about $30. Some guy wrote the software to generate the DCC signal and offered it as free and open-source software called DCC++. There's a subforum devoted to DCC++ over at the Trainboard forums. It's in the DCC & Electronics subforum. Steve S
If you don't mind a little tinkering, you can build a DCC base unit out of an Arduino clone and a motor shield for about $30. Some guy wrote the software to generate the DCC signal and offered it as free and open-source software called DCC++.
There's a subforum devoted to DCC++ over at the Trainboard forums. It's in the DCC & Electronics subforum.
Steve S
Granted you need a computer to interface with the Arduino, it's pretty dang cheap. I got all my components for $24 shipped.
I went down that path because I just need a benchtop programming track. I have a Digitrax throttle for the modular club, but investing in a full system was a bit wasteful at this point
COREY CHERIZARD Thanks for the tip, I've bought a Bachmann E-Z command DCC contriller with DCC locomotive. thank you for all the help you've given me you were a big help.
Thanks for the tip, I've bought a Bachmann E-Z command DCC contriller with DCC locomotive. thank you for all the help you've given me you were a big help.
An ok starter system.
Just remember the limitations. Maybe three locos and no way to modify the CV's yet. Some buttons can control sound locos sounds.
Here is a link to the Bachmann forums if you have not been there. Loads of good info about Bachmann products, forums, company reps, parts page, loco diagrams, DCC documents. Check out all the pages. Many miss a lot of the Bachmaann site.
Users of the EZ Command also. I would suggest joining.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?PHPSESSID=2mfkjfsesrahplus97s2ecmgf1&
I have some HO Bachmann locos for some time. I decided some years ago on the NCE Power Cab as the EZ Command has limitations.
Bachmann locos for some time have had low end Lenz non sound decoders which many have replaced. Maybe that is changing.
The on board sound are stripped down SoundTraxx decoders. I have a couple of those locos. Last I knew, Bachmann does not sell sound decoders.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I just got that book out of the library!
jk10:
Glad to be of assistance.
You can't go wrong with the NCE Powercab system.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter jk10: RMax1 For as limited as it is the EZ Command The operative word being "limited". You can get an NCE Powercab for less than $200 and it will do just about everything you could possibly want to do on a small layout. You can use the Bachmann DCC locomotives on the NCE system (or any other DCC equipped locomotives for that matter). Dave
RMax1 For as limited as it is the EZ Command
The operative word being "limited".
You can get an NCE Powercab for less than $200 and it will do just about everything you could possibly want to do on a small layout.
You can use the Bachmann DCC locomotives on the NCE system (or any other DCC equipped locomotives for that matter).
RMax1For as limited as it is the EZ Command
RMax1 I bought a Bachmann EZ Command DCC setup that came with a GP40 for $89 at a train show just to get my feet wet with DCC. For as limited as it is the EZ Command worked great and did everything I wanted just about for a very small layout. For under $100 you cannot beat it. I am now getting ready to upgrade. There are a few entry level units out there under $200. I will move my EZ Command to a section of my layout that I have made for testing and maintenance.
I bought a Bachmann EZ Command DCC setup that came with a GP40 for $89 at a train show just to get my feet wet with DCC. For as limited as it is the EZ Command worked great and did everything I wanted just about for a very small layout. For under $100 you cannot beat it. I am now getting ready to upgrade. There are a few entry level units out there under $200. I will move my EZ Command to a section of my layout that I have made for testing and maintenance.
Agree with Ulrich. Digitrax and NCE are both good entry level systems. Also agree that given the level of quality of your existing locos, purchasing new is a viable option, especially if you have pay to have someone else install the decoders. If you stay away from sound, Bachmann DCC locos can be had for a reasonable price. I personally have an older Digitrax Zepher and have had zero problems but either system will provide excellent service.
If you currently are able to wire (with soldered connections) a typical DC powered layout, then you are probably capable of hard-wiring DCC decoders into your existing loco fleet. The NCE D13SR motor control and lighting function decoder (no sound) is available for as little as $14 if bought in a 10-pack, $15 in a 4-pack or $17 individually. There are several good starter DCC systems for under $200 so you could convert your layout and 10 locos for under $340 assuming you install everything yourself. Converting a small layout currently wired for DC Cab Control can be accomplished by switching all blocks to a single cab setting, then replacing the DC power pack with the DCC Command Station. The wiring might be too light for running multiple loco consists but it will definitely work for smaller, single loco trains.
When I converted my small home layout to DCC, I couldn't believe how much added functionality DCC provided. Running trains is far more entertaining because the trains run more like, well, trains and less like models. The biggest difference is the fact that you drive your trains, not manage your track. Wiring is simpler to understand and you don't need track blocks (unless your layout is large enough to need power districts) nor do you need all the electrical switches or control panels. There is no need to power down spurs or sidings because trains run only when specifically addressed and commanded to do so. DCC makes it easier to add other operators to your exisiting layout and its always more fun to share the activity with others. I personally found converting to DCC far more than simply worth the investment. I will never go back to DC! Don't listen to those who say it is not worth the investment on a small layout. I have run on layouts ranging in size from 32 square feet to over 2,100 square feet. While DCC makes a lot of sense on the larger layouts, I always thought the biggest improvement occurs on the smallest layouts! Any time you want to run more than a single train at a time, DCC wins! Even if you only run one train at a time, the lighting features alone are worth the investment. Go for it!!!!
Hornblower
A few straight answers to the OP´s questions:
You need a DCC command station. A good entry level one costs about $170. Digitrax Zephyr Xtra or NCE PowerCab - the choice is rather a personal one.
Each loco needs a decoder, that´s about $20 per loco. None of your locos is designed to have a decoder just plugged in, so there is a lot of extra work involved in hardwiring a decoder to them. If you can do it on your own - great, if you don´t, forget it. The locos you mentioned are not really worth converting at an expense of close to $ 50 for each loco.
Hi Corey:
You need more than just the decoders to operate your locomotives with DCC. In addition to the decoders you will need the following:
- Command Station. This is what generates the signals to the decoders and controls the track power.
- Throttle. This is the piece that you hold in your hand that has all the control buttons and knobs on it. They can be tethered (hard wired) or they can use radio signals.
- Power Supply. You do not use your DC power Pack for DCC.
Some starter systems like the NCE Powercab come with all the above components included. In the case of the Powercab, the Command Station is built right into the throttle. List price is $199.95 but it can be found for less.
Before converting any locomotive to DCC it must run properly on DC. Do a tune up (i.e. clean and relubricate the gears, check the gears for flash and cracks, clean the wheels and all contact points where electricity has to flow).
The amp draw of the locomotive must be less than the maximum rating for the decoder. Most newer locomotives draw .5 amps or less (much less without sound). In your case it would be critical to measure the amp draw on each of your locomotives. If you don't know how to test the amp draw, start another thread and we will explain.
You will have to do some soldering to install your decoders. You will need a low wattage pencil tip soldering iron, fine rosin core solder, flux (not acid based!) and some reasonably decent soldering skills. If you don't have soldering skills, installing decoders is not the place to start. While you are at it, solder any connections that use plastic clips to hold the wires in place.
You will also need specific instructions for each locomotive as the requirements will differ from brand to brand. In particular, you need to make sure that there is no connection between the motor brushes and the frame.
Sorry if I am making this sound difficult, it's not. However, the first couple of decoders will be somewhat intimidating.
There are several 'how to' websites with instructions on how to do specific installations. Here is one:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/HO_Search/search.html
That's the only one I can think of right now. Perhaps others can suggest some different sites.
The Digitrax Zephr and the NCE power cab are starter systems that can be bought for under $175 and can be expanded if you need to run more locos.
I have not done my 1st conversion yet, but it's what I plan to do. I would urge you to read a couple books before you start spending money. There are also some other systems, DCS for one that are proprietary to specific MR companies I would stay away from all of those for now.
Some decoders have amperage limits which may not be enough for older locos. That's the reason for the advice above to measure stall current of the locos you plan to convert.
DCC is a bit more finicky than DC in the quality of the current delivered. If you have a DC layout with a pair of wires supplying power to a terminal track, that may not be reliable in DCC.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I'm sure Lionel's book was great, but there have been a lot of developments in 12-13 years. The more recent Wiring Your Model Railroad released by Kalmbach in 2015 would be more up-to-date.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
You may want to check this book out (quoted from dcc.wiki.com)
Published in April 2003
Written for someone just getting into DCC in mind. If you have general DCC knowledge, this book is not for you. Recommended for those just getting started in DCC and don't know what DCC means. Includes chapters on how DCC works, components, and basic decoder installations. Appendixes deal with troubleshooting, a glossary, and a DCC buyer's guide.
This book can be ordered directly from Kalmbach (publisher of Model Railroader magazine), though your local hobby shop or bookstore, and various online booksellers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
No idea your level of mechanical and electrical experience.
Basic DCC, no sound, consist of seven wires. Two for DCC pickup, One for headlight. One for rear light. Two for motor. One for lighting common.
Right now, once source has a DZ126 HO decoder for $18.00. I have used a few of these. Not much bigger than a USA dime. You can pay quite a bit more for a basic decoder also. Some think they need the best. Your choice. Do stay away from Bachmann non sound decoder.
Motor gets 12 to 14 volts PWM. Wider pulse, faster motor operates.
Lights get 12 to 14 volt DC. Some decoders now send PWM for dimming.
Older locos use light bulbs which will get quite hot with DCC. DC locos never get to full voltage on DC operated layouts. Many switch to LED's.
Most decoders are one amp limit. Run loco at 12 vdc with an ampmeter. Press slowly on drivers to stop motor. Measure current quickly.
Standard light bulbs can use quite a lot of current. LED's, about 9ma.
Most important. Isolate motor contacts from frame. Bachmann has both to frame. Very easy to smoke a decoder. Not trying to scare you but some have done this more than once.
My NCE Power Cab has protection and saved me once.
There is a DCC froum also.
Hi, and welcome to the Forum!
Entry into DCC can be costly, depending on your budget. A basic Digitrax or NCE (two of the bigger mfg) would run about $250 or so, and then you need to have decoders installed in your locos.
The thing is, the locos you listed are not "DCC friendly". Decoders COULD be installed, but likely by someone really experienced in the process. Your typical non sound decoder runs about $20-$25, but having someone install them for you would of course be at least that much again.
IMO, I would enjoy your DC runnings until you can buy a system and a loco or two with pre-installed DCC.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
DCC is fantastic for a larger layout with 2 or 3 or more operators all running trains at the same time. DCC Each operator gets his own throttle, which controls just his locomotive, independently all the other locomotives on the layout. It works well, and is far simpler to operate than a complex block system. On the other hand, a small layout with a single operator won't gain much from a DCC setup because single operators (like myself) can really only operate one train at a time. Cheaper than DCC, is merely to install toggle switches to turn off track power to each sideing. The trains you are not running are parked on sidings, to clear the main line, and you flip the siding toggle OFF to prevent the train from moving.
If you decide to go for DCC, you need to put a DCC decoder inside each locomotive. These can be had for maybe $30 each for a plain jane model and a good deal more if you want sound. And you need a "base station" that generates the DCC signal to drive the track. A nice setup offers walk around hand throttles that have IR or wireless links to the base station.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I wanted to know what you needed to get your locomotive DCC and how much it would cost. I am thinking about getting all of my locomotives. I have two GP40s by Bachmann, an EMD F9 A Unit also by Bachmann, An old 0-4-0 Dock Side by Life-Like, an old Amtrack P40 by Athearn, a GP40-2 by an unkowen brand, a GP9 by Walthers Train Line and a U-Boat by Rivarossi. I looked online to see how much a DCC decoder would cost and it was cheap, but I'm not sure that's all you need.