Mel,
It's actually the tubing pickup that's been in use for 10 years...I have only used the Kadee springs for a few months now. My biggest worry about them is that they will cut grooves in the back of the wheels. The tubing gives a large enough surface area on the axle to keep it from cutting a groove.
Gotta agree...it's interesting seeing the myriad ways that modelers come up with to solve problems!
Robert Beaty
The Laughing Hippie
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The CF-7...a waste of a perfectly good F-unit!
Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the
end of your tunnel, Was just a freight train coming
your way. -Metallica, No Leaf Clover
Micro-Mark sells a phosphor bronze sheet that may allow you to cut out some wipers to fit your design. it is a little expensive but was made for making electrical wipers. Package includes three 5 inch x 7 inch x 0.008 thick sheets for $13.50.
Robert and Mark:
Interesting ideas!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I use an entirely different approach - this will only work with "live" axles though ....
I use a length of 24 awg solid wire (telephone wire) and wrap it around the axle five or six turns, leaving about one inch of length. Don't wrap it real tight. If the trucks are plastic, I heat meld the extra wire into the beam between the king pin hole and the side frame. The excess wire is trimmed off leaving about 1/8" beyond the bolster.
Repeat the other axle, only heat meld (or glue) it to the other side of the bolster from the first one. Solder fine flexible wire to the two 1/8" extensions and run them up through the floor through their own holes placed above the solder point.
I done all my lighted caboose this way and it works very well. With wipers on the back of the whell, there is just one tiny contact point. With the wire wrapped around the axle, there is a huge contact patch at all times.
I will also have the axles in each truck with the insulated wheel on opposite sides. This way, there is pick up for the left and right rail at both ends of the car ensuring better pick up through turnouts, etc..
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I have used the Kadee springs as wipers successfully using #30 wire left over from decoder installations. It is indeed flexible enough to prevent derailments, provided that you leave enough length between the carbody and the truck for strain relief.
Another thing I have done which avoids the lateral force on the wheelset is to cut a piece of brass tubing with an inner diameter just slightly larger than the diameter of the axle, ground on one side so it forms a "C." Snap it onto the axle and use a piece of either semi-stiff brass wire or phosphor bronze soldered to the tubing to connect the two axles. solder the pickup wire to the brass wire, and you have a pretty durable (and reliable!) set of pickups. I have a set of these on one of my passenger cars that has been in use for nearly 10 years now.
hminky http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1905/tender_wipers/ or http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1879/bachmann_4-4-0/sound/ Thank you if you visit Harold
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1905/tender_wipers/
or
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/1879/bachmann_4-4-0/sound/
Thank you if you visit
Harold
Yeah, I'd guess that the wire would work well as an axle wiper. The ability to adjust the pressure is a useful quality to allow reliable pick-up without inducing too much drag.I'm not sure how well the Kadee spring will work as an attachment point, but it's certainly worth a try, as the cost is right. My concern would be having it deform from tension on the wire, but fastening it securely should take care of that.
I've also seen wire axle wipers installed on plastic trucks using a screw: the wire is bent at its midpoint to form a loop, through which the screw is inserted and then attached to the truck's bolster. This places each end of the same wire on both axles of the same truck, simplifying the wiring to the lights.
Wayne
I don't use any lighted cars (or locos, for that matter), but added wipers to improve locomotive reliability. The first ones used the Kadee centring springs, and work well enough:
For more recent ones, I've switched to using Tichy's phosphor bronze wire - not sure if this is .015" or .020":
For the brass trucks and loco retainer plates, I use two-sided copper-clad board, but for plastic trucks, the board can be single-sided and either screwed to the truck or attached using contact cement or epoxy.The advantage of the wire is that it allows more versatility in placement, especially useful on locos, where the gearbox often gets in the way. It also allows multiple adjustments to the pressure exerted by the wire on the wheel treads or wheel backs. Placing wipers which rub on the wheel backs works best when both wheels on each axle receive a wiper, as it prevents wheels from always being displaced to the same side by the pressure.