KO BossyI'm hoping for my first goal to be able to run 2-3 trains at a time on my layout
With your goal of running multiple trains at the same time, DCC is the only way to go.
With DC, you would have to divide your layout into isolated blocks, each block controlled by a rotary switch connected to your various throttles of power packs, i.e lots of wires everywhere. Lots more complicated wiring, and if a train gets off a block set for a different throttle, you will lose control of it.
With DCC, you run a single 2-conductor power buss under the layout with power feeds to the track every few feet. With a small layout, you would not need a booster station. You will have total, seamless and complete control of all trains all over the layout including trains on the same track running in different directions. (Caution, head on collisions are possible .) From the throttle, you control speed direction, lights, and other functions. Add a sound decoder and you control horn/whistle, bell, brake squeel, coupler sounds, and numerous other sounds. One of my favorites is to turn on a steam loco headlight and hear the whine of the turbogenerator as it comes to speed.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
KO Bossy:
The NCE Power Cab is a fully featured system. In other words, it can do everything that you would want your DCC system to do. Digitrax offers systems with a few more communication options but they are not necessary to DCC operation.
Just a few points in favour of the Power Cab:
- It will run 3 - 4 sound equipped locomotives.
- It is easily expandable should your layout grow.
- It does not require you to buy any other components unless you want to add a second operator.
- It is extremely reliable. Reports of problems are extremely rare, and most are easily solvable. Actual equipment failure is almost unheard of.
- It will work with all DCC decoders. Some DCC systems require boosters to program some decoders. NCE does not.
- It is intuitive and easy to use. You can be running trains in just a few minutes from initial set up, and the throttle (hand held unit) is easy to understand.
- It is very economical.
- This question has been asked numerous times in the past by people starting out in the hobby and the Power Cab always receives the most votes.
Having said all that, you might want to consider going up to the NCE Pro Cab 5 amp system, simply because they are available right now for really good prices. You can get one for about $400.00 vs a retail price of $579.00 and $200.00 retail for the Power Cab. (The Power Cab can probably be found for less). However, keep in mind that you can always expand the Power Cab later.
Regards
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Yes, all the NCE and Digitrax systems will let you run sound on a loco equipted with sound/DCC. Money spent on DCC books may save you money on DCC stuff that may not suit your needs.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
gregc KO Bossy does the NCE Power Cab still allow me to use sound on my locomotives? conventional sound is a feature of the decoders and independent of the control system (e.g. NCE, Digitrax, ...) I recommend the PowerCab. It is both a command station providing power to the track and a controller. It can also be used as a controller on a higher power system with a separate command station.
KO Bossy does the NCE Power Cab still allow me to use sound on my locomotives?
conventional sound is a feature of the decoders and independent of the control system (e.g. NCE, Digitrax, ...)
I recommend the PowerCab. It is both a command station providing power to the track and a controller. It can also be used as a controller on a higher power system with a separate command station.
I guess I phrased that poorly. While the decoders are what enables locomotives to make sounds, can I use the PowerCab to control those sounds? Like can I enter a code on the controller and the locomotive's horn will blow? I just want to ensure that this system is sound friendly, as opposed to a DC system where you turn it on and can control speed and direction, and that's it (no sounds or anything).
In other words, if I buy a locomotive with decoders installed already, can I make it make sounds by using the PowerCab controller?
KO Bossydoes the NCE Power Cab still allow me to use sound on my locomotives?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
DanO22 KO My sugestion for a dcc system would be as an earlier member said is the NCE Power Cab. This is plenty for what you are talking about running for now and can be expanded if needed. The company supports there product so if you need help they are great. The best advice as has also been mentioned read up on wiring, track layout, and other subjects be it online or hard copy. Good luck and dont be discouraged it will all fall into place. Dan
KO
My sugestion for a dcc system would be as an earlier member said is the NCE Power Cab. This is plenty for what you are talking about running for now and can be expanded if needed. The company supports there product so if you need help they are great. The best advice as has also been mentioned read up on wiring, track layout, and other subjects be it online or hard copy. Good luck and dont be discouraged it will all fall into place.
Dan
Hi Dan,
Thanks for your input. Question-does the NCE Power Cab still allow me to use sound on my locomotives? I just want to make sure, this may be the one I go with. I hear good things in reviews, but want extra opinions.
KO BossyRight now, its down to 3 things-which engine I want (I'll be getting one with DCC/Sound, but style and color scheme are things I have to decide on), and perhaps more importantly, a DCC system and track. Now, the guy at the shop recommended Kato Unitrack. It seems pretty good-plugs into each piece pretty easily, I like that it has realistic roadbed already attached and raising the track up. At the same time, Atlas track is cheaper, I can put on a roadbed that I choose, ballast it all to look a bit more realistic and it connects to other track, like Flex Track. Now, for the time being, I don't see much need for Flex Track. Its great if you want irregular curves or to mold things to fit a certain shape that regular track won't permit, but right now, I'm just looking to get something set up and won't be attempting anything out of the ordinary. So Unitrack or Atlas with cork roadbed underneath...dunno which to go with. Thoughts?
I prefer adding my own road bed and ballast, it isn't that hard and it looks better, if you do use Kato track use a light wash of ink or arcylic paint to add shaddow detail and to kill the shine, with a spray of Dullcote and paint the inside of all but the switches. Flex with allow and smoother transition to the curve and you can solder the connections and lay the track by carefully bending it from the middle to the end and then cut the rails to match. It is just a little harder than snap track and looks 100Xs better.
DCC decide how many engines you will want to run at once and then double it most of the smaller systems allow for expansion. Doing what I suggested will allow you to run some auto features and add engines. With mine I am going to triple the engines as I will be double heading some and adding more stratchbuilt and kitbashed engines as time allows
DC is fine but the wiring is more complicated and this can be a turn off for many hobbist from building a complicated track plan when they have the time and space. I just don't want to do all the blocks again so I am going to convert my old engines with solder in boards and such. It is all up to you have fun and spend your budget on good stuff not junk. As Mike Holmes says "Build it Right"
KO Boss
Welcome back to the hobby. I think most of your questions have been answered. I would like to offer a few bits of info I think will assist you.
Join the NMRA - National Model Railroad Association.
1) Most divisions have a meeting every three months and there you will many great expierenced modelers. You will also get to see many RR as they have tours almost on every occasion and you can discover more about your likes and dislikes
2) Try to narrow your focus. Ask your self do you want to Model a specific time or free lance ?
3) Do you want to create your own RR or model after a certain actual real life RR
4) Plan and research before buying. It will save money and lead to more enjoyment
5) Research some more and then plan
6) Ask others to look at your design and get some feed back. A new pair of eyes will see things you didnt consider and help improve over all design.
7) Did I say research and design ? Very important
8) Dont be afraid to fail. If it doesnt work just start over
9) Make it fun !
Lastly I would liek to invite you to Jeffries Trackside Diner. We talk on and off subject and all are invited
YGW
Welcome back to the hobby! Lots of changes in the last few years to absorb. I have been to George's trains a few times. My wife and I use to take weekend vacations up into Canada before one needed a passport from the USA. We lived in Erie, PA, just a hop, skip and a jump from Niagra Falls. Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
Was it me, I'd do some planning of my layout. You mentioned 4 by 6, which is pretty small. Usually the small layout is 4 by 8, 'cause plywood comes in 4 by 8 sheets. Any chance of future expansion somewhere? The garage, a back porch, the basement, the attic, anywhere. Or moving? Any chance of doing an around the walls layout? They don't have to be very deep to be interesting and you can get a lot more layout into the same room.
Do you have a favorite prototype road, Canadian Pacific or Canadian National, Ontario Northern, or some other? Anything running near where you live that you can go and railfan?
With your space limitations, I'd go for 18 inch curves in HO. Most commercial models will handle 18 inch curves. Few will stay on the track if the curves get any tighter. Big steam and 6 axle diesels may (will) have trouble with curves that sharp. You will be limited to 4-6-2 and 2-8-2 steamers and four axles diesels.
You mentioned running 2-3 trains at a time. That's hard to do on a 4 by 6, there just isn't enough room for enough track to hold that many trains. How many operators do you see running the trains? 4 by 6 is pretty small to allow 2 or 3 operators running 2 or 3 trains. If you see lots of operators, running trains at the same time, then DCC is the way to go. Each DCC locomotive responds only to signals in the track addressed to it and it ignores commands addressed to other locomotives. So three operators can have independent control of three locomotives all on the same run of track. This flexiblity comes with costs. You have to buy and install a $30 (or more) DCC decoder module inside each locomotive. PLus buy the DCC "base station" that generates the DCC signal going into the track.
If you are thinking about just a single operator, yourself, which is reasonable on a small layout, then DCC is overkill. You can only operate a single train at a time. The ability to control many trains at once is not very useful. What you can do, is make your main line double track, wire each track to a separate power pack, and run two trains at once. Power packs are cheap compared to DCC base stations.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Well I went to my local hobby shop today (George's Trains, one of the best model train stores in Canada). I talked extensively with one of the owners and he gave me some good tips. I think I'm going to stick with HO. I can convert my rolling stock to knuckle couplers fairly easily, it seems. And I can add in metallic wheels if I so desire, which I may very well.
Right now, its down to 3 things-which engine I want (I'll be getting one with DCC/Sound, but style and color scheme are things I have to decide on), and perhaps more importantly, a DCC system and track. Now, the guy at the shop recommended Kato Unitrack. It seems pretty good-plugs into each piece pretty easily, I like that it has realistic roadbed already attached and raising the track up. At the same time, Atlas track is cheaper, I can put on a roadbed that I choose, ballast it all to look a bit more realistic and it connects to other track, like Flex Track. Now, for the time being, I don't see much need for Flex Track. Its great if you want irregular curves or to mold things to fit a certain shape that regular track won't permit, but right now, I'm just looking to get something set up and won't be attempting anything out of the ordinary. So Unitrack or Atlas with cork roadbed underneath...dunno which to go with. Thoughts?
Also, I'm hoping for my first goal to be able to run 2-3 trains at a time on my layout. I don't necessarily need any crazy, top of the line DCC system that can run 30 trains simultaneously. Are there any out there people can suggest, to meet my requirements?
KO BossyI also am unsure about the companies that make the trains. What are ones to stay away from and which ones should I give my business? Good detail is important, as well as running well (perhaps the most important), but price is something to consider, too. One other thing-if I'm going to get started, I need to know where to start in the first place. I mean, I can work on my scenery and whatnot as time goes on, but I need to get some things down first-mainly, layout. To do that, I need track, a transformer, and at least an engine to make sure it all works. That way I can set it up, run it around, and go from there, working on various areas. I'm thinking of nickel silver track, since that seems the best. However, again, there's debate on this as well. Do I want flex track? Do I want this EZ snap track? Do I want track that has curves built in, making it rigid? What about track connectors (joiners)? Do they come with the track or separately? Yikes, all this is making my head hurt. Sorry for all the questions, I've got more, but I figure I'll start with this. Thanks in advance.
Well first welcome, I am getting back into it also, but I have been keeping up while moving around and such. KATO, some Bachman and several other comapnies are great.
Track on your first track you *might* want to use sectional but I would use Nickel Silver Flex Track on cork or similar road bed and don't ballast you turnout, just run ballast on the outside except near the throw bars.
DC versus DCC except for reversing sections you don't have to do as much wiring and you can find a nice transitor throttle with momentum and braking in DC on Ebay for a lot less than a DCC system, but the DCC will have sound in N or H0.
Scale I am building and old time layout in the den in H0 with solder in boards sound in the tenders in 3X15 feet in a dog bone loop and several industries and passenger stops. In N in the master bedroom a N with DCC mostly steam set in the Valleys of Virginia runnin from Lynchburg to Roakoke and then to Bluefield VA/WVA. I will have a shunt track to park a train so I can break up the around and around.
N versus H0, whatever floats your boat N is great for long trains and takes only 60% of the space of H0 so you could have a lot more room for trains before the trains start chasing their on tails. The better engines can pull a lot of cars if they roll easy with a transitor throttle set to off, but not quite! I had to Concor PA1 A units with a power B unit pull a train of 60 cars on a layout years ago over 30 minutes along a flex section about 48" I guess they were doing about 1 mph. They were clean broke in engines on clean Nickle Silver track. I put as many cars as we had to see if they would stall, shut off the throttle and went for a cup of Joe. I thought they were off. There is a lot of good stuff out there, in all scales.
The most important thing is to have fun!
As my name was mentioned in one of the answers to the OP´s question, I feel kind of obliged to join in as well.
Things have changed a lot since your childhood days. A lot more stuff is now available in kits or RTR than ever before. Quality also has improved, although you can run into issues with any brand. N scales has matured and is certainly now equal to HO scale, not in terms of detail, but quality and performance. Additionally, Blackstone has joined the ranks of suppliers with a lot of nice HOn3 narrow gauge locos and cars. Even Z scale, though still somewhat of a stepchild, is catching on.
You state to have room for a 4 by 6 ft. layout, which is not a lot, but still a feasible size for a layout in either of the scales mentioned above. MR´s project layout of this year shows you, what can be done in HO scale. Of course, You can put a lot more "trains" onto this real estate in N scale and even more in Z scale. Or you could use the "gain" in space to build a more generous looking layout with broader curves and more room for scenery - IMHO the better choice.
I´d like to offer a simple answer to your DC/DCC question. With DC, you control the power on the track, requiring an extra control of the routing of the power if you want to operate more than one loco on your layout. DCC controls each loco and lets you run a number of locos on the same track, without the need for a separate routing of the power. DCC puts you into the driver´s seat, while DC turns you into a dispatcher, routing the power.
Track - the choice of track finally depends on your choice of scale . Using flex track requires some experience and skills, putting together sectional track is much easier and quicker. A good brand for sectional track with a fairly large selection of different radii and switches is Kato´s Unitrack, available both in HO scale and N scale. It has a molded on roadbed, which looks a little artificial, but can be vastly improved with just a little extra effort. Again, it´s a question of personal liking.
Others have mentioned you should do a lot of reading before going on a shopping spree and I can only second that. Get a couple of primer books to build up a level of knowledge allowing you to identify your wants and needs properly, come up with a plan as a guideline for the coming activities. A good plan will prevent you from making costly mistakes.
That´s all from me now - keep us informed which route you will be heading down!
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Hi KO,
I'm in a modular club, therefoe I do not have a layout.
As for my HO Collection, I have 2 Steam Excursion Trains, 1 Streamlined Passenger Train, and 2 sets of ATHG F3 A-B-A Sets (ATSF and MKT) to pull my transition era freight train, I also have a metrolink commuter train.
A module may be a better idea than a layout, especially if it's a small one, like 2-4 feet, you can easily box it up when you are done.
hon30critterSome inexpensive so called "toy train" locomotives might not be worth the effort
Toy train locomotives would include brands like Tyco, AHM, some Bachmann and a few others. The big problem for someone starting out in DCC with old locomotives, would be installing decoders. Locos from 30 years ago would not be DCC ready, i.e. not ready to just plug a decoder in and have them run. They would have to be hard wired with soldered connections. Even one that is "DCC ready" (not DCC, but with a socket to plug in a decoder) may be a bit of a challenge for someone just starting out.
It probably would be best to buy a new locomotive with a factory installed decoder just to get started. Let us know the manufacturer of your existing loco, and we probably can advise if it is worth saving for a future decoder install.
Hi KO!
Welcome back to the hobby, and welcome to the forums!!
You have asked a lot of questions which is a good thing.
Let's start with your old locomotives. The most likely reason for your old stuff not working is dried grease. You need to figure out how to get them apart so you can clean all the old lubricant out and replace it. If you can let us know which locomotives you have, we can tell you how to get them apart. Posting pictures of them would be very helpful. Instructions for posting pictures are in the first thread on the General Discussion page.
Some inexpensive so called "toy train" locomotives might not be worth the effort because they can never be made to run reliably especially at slow speeds. Also, their motors may draw too much power for the DCC decoders to handle.
The old couplers can easily be replaced. Kadee is the go to brand but there are other good ones too. Stay away from plastic couplers.
http://www.kadee.com/
Brass track has fallen badly out of favour. It can be used but you will need to clean it constantly to keep things running. Having your engines stall all the time is the quickest way out of the hobby. Nickel/silver is what is used now. Stay away from straight steel track. It has the same oxidization problems as brass. Considering the size of your layout the cost for new nickel/silver track won't be that huge. New turnouts will be a bit of an investment but you can find them used on eBay.
Flex track gives you more freedom of design. Just don't get too carried away with how tight you can bend the curves. 18" radii is about as small as you want to go unless you are modelling a trolly system (which, by the way, could be very interesting in a 4' x 6' space). Best to do some research on what minimum radius a locomotive (or car) will safely operate on before buying them.
I'm quite biased towards HO, mainly because I like to build my own small engines, but also because I have the space. N scale would be too small for me but lots of people love it. You can get sound in N scale, and you can install your own decoders for DCC.
Questions #1, #2 & #3. - DCC is a completely different system from what your were using. DCC stands for Digital Command Control. It applies constant power to the track and the locomotives are controlled by sending them commands along the track to the decoders in the locomotives to control speed, direction, sounds, lights and more. There are many options for controlling your engines. Basically you are driving the locomotives instead of having to control the track power. For example, you can have one locomotive stay stationary while you back another locomotive right up to it. Then you can hook the two of them together and instruct them to both operate exactly the same way so they can run together to pull a larger train (called consisting). Then you can separate them and contol each one independantly again.
Some DCC starter sets come complete with everything you need to get trains running. The majority of people seem to recommend the NCE Power Cab system as a starter. I have one and I love it. It is very cost effective. You should be able to find it for somewhere around the $180.00 mark. It includes the throttle (the thing you hold to control the locomotives), the command station (which is actually built into the throttle), the power supply (sufficient to run three or four sound equipped engines) and the necessary cables and hook up panels. It is also expandable should your layout grow. It can be used for HO or N scale as well as the smaller scales.
Digitrax is another good system.
DC (Direct Current) is what you were using. Basically you have a power pack (throttle) which allows you to send varying amounts of power to the track to control locomotive speed, and it allows you to reverse the current to change directions. In a simple DC system all locomotives receive the same power and do the same thing all at once. It is possible to break your layout into two or more 'blocks' with a separate control for eack block so you can run more than one engine independantly from the other(s). It is a much less expensive system and lots of people use it and love it, but things like sound are much more limited. Also, you tend to spend a fair amount of time manually flipping switches to keep the polarity correct.
I tend to drone on so I'll leave it at that for now (well, you did ask a lot of questions!).
All the best!
P.S.
If you haven't already seen it, there is a "Getting Started" section on this site. Go to the black bar on the top of the page.
Welcome. I won't attempt to address everything you've surfaced but will offer some initial reactions:
1. You sort of suggest that budget will be a practical concern, as it is for most. Along those lines I'd suggest to get familiar with some of the key cost components i.e., DC vs DCC systems, typical DC vs DCC locos, track components, freight and passenger cars. Just enough to get a feel before making major decisions. Peruse (don't try to memorize) the Walthers catalog or a website like modeltrainstuff.com
2. Consider your time budget as well. How much time would you guess you would spend on hobbying? Will that likely change considerably in 5-10 years due to interest or other factors?
3. Consider what scale you prefer (e.g., some of us older guys claim we would not relish tinkering with N scale, others (old or younger) are fine with it.
4. Given the above, how do you plan to handle a layout? Are there space concerns? Do you have expectations on how fast you want to complete most trackwork and have the basic layout operating? Size will affect progress to an extent (depending on complexity). Will you adopt an existing track plan, design a variation on your own, design one from scratch? Will you be more focused on building and running trains around (like me, very building (freight cars, structures, scenery) oriented re: my interests, plus simple running for the grandkids) or will you prefer a more sophisticated layout where more realistic "operations" (switching, etc) will be needed to not eventually be bored?
5. I second the suggestion to get ahold of some books on key subjects, many goods ones in the Kalmbach store here, on subjects such as track planning, effective trackwork installation, basic wiring, DCC (if interested), benchwork, then additional things like scenery. I like to study ahead on subjects before I get to doing them. Realize that trackwork quality is critical to trains running with minimal problems and knowledge and skills are big parts of this. My 2nd layout never got past trackwork, due to a number of distractions but poor running (lots of derailments) caused by poor trackwork contributed as well. My next layout was grandson's EZTrack, ok for that purpose but for my 4th layout (4-1/2 yrs old) I went with flextrack.
6. Eventually add key websites to your resources, especially on subjects such as DCC or other specialty subjects (e.g., a DCC decoder brand). You will find a search box for old threads here (Search the Community on the right) but you will likely find a Google search much more effective (type "Site: cs.trains (add your subject)" in surfacing forum threads on a given subject.
7. On your locos, I suggest to first determine whether you will go for DCC, without or with w/sound. If so, buy a new moderate priced one, say an Athearn, Intermountain, Proto one and let that be your learning / test motive power. Your old locos may or may not be great for DCC conversions depending on motor type, age. Go for Kadee style couplers (some similar brands work with them) as your default. Nickle silver track, please!!
8. I went with DCC & sound, flextrack code 83, Walthers-Shinohara turnouts (wide selection), Tortoise switch machines, cork roadbed. Those aren't "right" answers, but are right for me.
9. You might find it quite helpful to look at one or more of the MR project layouts that are covered in a series of MR articles and supplemented by MR videos. An example that helped me was the Virginian layout of early 2012. I'm not sure whether those are available free to view by MR subscribers or whether you need to sign up for the supplemental MR Video Plus access, a few bucks extra per month.
EDIT: It looks like you can see the project videos if you subscribe to MR as they are a MR Extra, not requiring the Video Plus add-on:
http://mrr.trains.com/videos?type=§ion=%7b0670C2CA-C7D7-428F-99B8-97AF8E719609%7d&series=&scale=&sort=desc&q=&runSearch=1
10. I understand you have a wealth of questions...they can't all be answered in one thread. As you address preparation or actually diving in, subject specific questions can be addressed in depth. Examples: exactly how to install a Tortoise, what methods do folks utilize for turnout control panels, what size DCC bus wire should I use for my size layout, what soldering iron(s) will I need, what brand HO diesels do folks prefer that are in current production, how to ballast trackwork, how to build hills, how to speed match consisted (joined) DCC locomotives, how to reset a confused decoder, how to clean track...and on and on. You will always get a response, even if just pointing to a related old or recent thread.
Don't feel overwhelmed, it works out, step by step. Enjoy your journey.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The old toy trains had horn hook couplers. We don't need a picture. They can be replaced with Kadee couplers. Model trains suffer from youthful hands and they didn't have all the much detail years ago. What you have may not be worth refurbishing.
Rail joiners come separately and are a few bucks for 50. I like flex track it gives more options. I don't think track with roadbed attached looks right, but if everyone agreed with me, Kato and Bachmann wouldn't sell any of it.
I've got no pearls about HO vs N. When you get my age, bigger stuff is easier to see and work on. That said, Sir Maddog is my age and is starting a Z scale layout.
You are not my age so this will not be your last layout and you will likely be moving a couple times. Building benchwork that is not movable means you have to start over.
Speaking of age, you do not remember when rail cars had no graffiti. You need to decide on era and a pace or theme, otherwise you end up with a hodge podge of steam and new diesel and a variety of road names.
Get a couple beginner books on DCC. It has 50% of the market. Stay away from the proprietary control systems like DCS.
Is there a club near you where you can get some ideas?
Welcome to the forum.
welcome
not sure how big you want to get into the hobby. for some, they ultimately choose a specific prototype and want equipment specific to that railroad rather than a random collection of stuff. So unless you have a strong preference for changing gauge (N, HO, O, ...) I suggest you stick with what you got and use it. You may need a new engine, but you can use the rolling stock.
Before buying anything, unless you want to build something temporary to get some experiences, you need figure out how much space you can use for a layout and develop a track plan. This can take a while. I suggest you read some of the may threads under the Layout and layout building forum to see what others have suggested and the comments made. Those thread will also mention various books. Track Planning for Realistic Operation is one. I suggest reading The Art of Model Railroading.
In the mean time, you can read up, including these forums, on other aspects, such as benchwork, track, throttles, locomotives and rolling stock.
KO BossyWhat's the difference between DC and DCC?
Presumably you know the DC controls locomotives using a throttle that supplies power to the rails to control any and all locomotives on those rails. Various wiring and switches are used to control isolated "blocks" of track allowing different locomotives to be controlled by separate throttles.
Digital command control is a standard for communicating between a DCC command station that applies power to the track and decoders in each and every locomotive. Separate isolated track blocks are no longer needed, just a single pair of wires between the command station and rails (although multiple feeders to the rails is a good idea). It allows multiple locomotives to be independently controlled on the same section of track.
DCC is not scale specific, but you need smaller decoders for small scales. Since DCC is a standard, you can use decoders from different venders in different locomotives and a DCC system from yet another vender. NCE and Digitrax are two common venders for DCC systems. They and other venders sell decoders.
Hey guys, I just joined. Pleasure to meet you all.
So I have loved trains since I was...born, pretty much. Naturally, getting into the hobby was a given, and my dad and I started going to train shows and picking things up when I was about 4. My dad didn't want to invest too heavily in top of the line things, since for a kid of that age, what difference did it make? As long as they ran, that was what was important.
Unfortunately, our basement had to be renovated many years back, so our layout had to come down, and at about age 12, I sort of fell out of things.
Well recently I've become interested in picking things up again, now that I'm in my late 20s. However, I've run into a few problems. First and foremost, what worked when I was 4 doesn't work anymore. Its not even that what I have is out of date, but most of it flat out doesn't work (at least, the engines). They also have the older style of couplings (I'd provide a picture, but I haven't the faintest idea what they're called). Everything else uses newer knuckle couplings, which one thing I own has. All my track is brass, and needs a good cleaning. As I already said, 90% of the engines just don't run. Their motors are just shot (probably because my dad bought everything preowned and its ancient, now).
Now, I've been doing research before I buy anything and wanted some help or opinions. I feel quite overwhelmed and don't even know where to start. A lot of the videos and articles I've watched tend to speak to you where they expect you have a degree of knowledge of certain terms and within 2 minutes I'm confused about things. So if anyone posting can give me some tips or advice, please feel free to lay things out as basically as possible.
Ok, so since I'm basically starting over, I'm looking for the best way of getting back into things. I may be able to expand at some point, but right now, I have to look at the area I can work with. I have a 4x6 table and that's about it. Now, with that in mind, I've classically done HO as my scale, but have heard good things about N, as well. I don't want this to turn into an HO vs N quarrel (I've seen that happen on a few other forums when I was researching)-but for a 4x6 table, I know that I can get a lot more N in there than HO. Its also cheaper, somewhat, due to many of the literal bells and whistles not really being really definitive in the engines, whereas the larger HO scale has the space for decoders offering sound (although you pay for it). Problem is that I have no experience in N. So I'm quite conflicted.
Another issue is that my only power sources are from a little controller that you turn one way and all engines move in one direction, and vice versa for the opposite direction. I'm looking to upgrade to more modern methods, mainly DCC. Now, there are questions I have:
1. Are there scale specific DCC control panels? Or can you just get one and apply it to HO, N or whatever you want?
2. What's the difference between DC and DCC?
3. What's a good brand to go with where you can get longevity out of it, its relatively easy to set up and understand, and is wallet friendly? I don't need some super duper, top of the line, can run 25 engines at once sorta thing. Running 2-4 engines at a time is plenty.
I also am unsure about the companies that make the trains. What are ones to stay away from and which ones should I give my business? Good detail is important, as well as running well (perhaps the most important), but price is something to consider, too.
One other thing-if I'm going to get started, I need to know where to start in the first place. I mean, I can work on my scenery and whatnot as time goes on, but I need to get some things down first-mainly, layout. To do that, I need track, a transformer, and at least an engine to make sure it all works. That way I can set it up, run it around, and go from there, working on various areas. I'm thinking of nickel silver track, since that seems the best. However, again, there's debate on this as well. Do I want flex track? Do I want this EZ snap track? Do I want track that has curves built in, making it rigid? What about track connectors (joiners)? Do they come with the track or separately?
Yikes, all this is making my head hurt. Sorry for all the questions, I've got more, but I figure I'll start with this. Thanks in advance.