While I had the bodies off this consist, I decided to add some weight to the engines. This is what I came up with. I test ran the consist and there is no wheel slippage anywhere on the layout. They even fit through all my tunnels and bridges.
The only problem I can see is getting the bodies back on.
Thats why the Dremel tools are so handy and a "must" have item.
Mike.
My You Tube
Maybe I could use the roof off of an observation car?
An EMD F7 Observation engine?
Back to the drawing board.
Hello all,
The added weight doesn't look bad...
It's the purple that looks out of place!
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Weight a minute (couldn't resist)!
Are your cars below NMRA weight standards? I would suggest adding weight using fishing sinkers. If you need signifcantly more weight, perhaps get metal weight plates. I don't know who sells them...
SouthPenn ....I test ran the consist and there is no wheel slippage anywhere on the layout.....
There's no reason why you should expect wheelslip with only the weighted locomotive running. However, when adding weight to locomotives, it's good practice to test for wheelslip when the loco is under load. To do so, couple a car to the loco, then, while holding the car in place, apply power - the loco will attempt to move the car, but the wheels will eventually slip - this indicates that the loco is not too heavy, and when overtaxed, can still slip its wheels, which will protect the motor from burnout. (For a steam loco, simply hold the tender while performing this test.)I once added so much weight to a Tyco C-430 that it couldn't slip its wheels and, fortunately, removed some before the pancake-style motor fried itself.While many diesels have ample room for added weight (less so with decoders and speakers, though), most steam engines can handle more weight than can be fit into them.
My Athearn Mikados, notoriously poor pullers, could still slip their drivers with a 20 oz. saddle of sheet lead draped over their boilers, but I was able to add only 5 oz. internally. However, because the added weight balanced the total weight at the centre-point of the driver wheelbase, it was enough to turn them into decent pullers:
If you're having trouble fitting sufficient weight into your locos, Mel's suggestion of using birdshot is a good one.Using custom-cast lead weights, I was able to bring my re-motored Athearn U-boats up to 33oz. apiece, giving them each a measured drawbar pull of 8.3oz.:
There's some info HERE on casting your own weights.
Wayne
Making the custom weights looks like a good way to add weight in odd places.
I have been buying self sticking lead weights from here and here.
SouthPenn Making the custom weights looks like a good way to add weight in odd places. I have been buying self sticking lead weights from here and here.
Another product to not overlook for moldable weight, is sheet lead roof/ chimney flashing. It can usually be bought in smaller quantities off the 6, 8 0r 10" roll and sold by weight. have used this to add weight to small, tight spaces. Beside cutting and fitting as you shape, you can also score and fold to any thickness to fit in that obscure space. I generally will hold with contact cement or Pliobond. Use care on thin plastic as too much (wet) contact cementma y attack the plastic. In that case silicone, adhesive caulk or double sided tape may be better.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I found sheet lead at Amazon. Cool.
It is true that you need to make sure that the motor will still turn, slipping the wheels, when the locomotive gets stuck and cannot move. The motor will draw more and more current attempting to turn, if it cannot turn it will get too hot, and eventually melt off some insulation in the armature.
However, this is not usually a problem in HO. I have never been able to pack enough weight inside an HO locomotive to prevent the wheels for turning when the locomotive cannot move.
I been using sheet lead flashing which I get at the local lumber yard. It is nice and soft, cuts easily with tin snips, and lead is the best there is for packing a lot of weight into a small space. I secure the lead in place with silicone bathtub caulk. I pickle the lead in supermarket vinegar to roughen up the surface and give the caulk something to grab onto.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
SouthPenn I found sheet lead at Amazon. Cool.
Great, only trouble with buying unseen products like this, unless tey specify the thickness, you could end up w/ inferior or too thin lead flashing. I use lead flashing professionally and have found it has been getting quite thin, esspecially at discount, chain hardware and hone centers. Sometimes the thinner is easier to use for flashing, but the heavier is more suited for weight. My reason for recommending decent hardware stores, roofing suppliers or quality lumber yard for the better product.
Do remember as you work w/ lead, avoid rubbing face, eyes or mouth, and wash hands after use.