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My first post and I have a few questions...

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My first post and I have a few questions...
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 3, 2004 8:24 PM
Hello, I recently decided to start dabbling in this hobby after many years of observation and research.

My big question is how challenging is it to paint brass models, at least from the perspective of getting to paint to adhere and remain durable? Do the engines need to be primed? Are acrylics or are enamels superior? Is it worth paying the extra for painted brass or can good results (with much practice of course) be obtained with a good badger airbrush and some experience? Also, are there any good references for painting brass engines? Finally, are there any major pitfalls to working with brass that one should be aware of?

My first new project is a repaint and detailing of an Athearn USRA Mikado into a B&O Q-3. Also I plan on building some small scenery dioramas to try and develop my scenery skills. I also have a few old, beat-up bachmann engines lying around that I will sacrifice in an attempt to rebuild my old airbrushing skills. Does this sound like a good start?

I plan to model the B&O during the 1930s with Mikados, Consolidations, the mighty EL-5a and EL-3a 2-8-8-0s, the S-1 big-sixes 2-10-2, and the Pacifics. Does anyone else on the board model this era and road?

I'm looking forward to hearing your replies. Have a good evening.

Best Regards,

Nick
  • Member since
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  • From: Northern Ca
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Posted by jwar on Friday, December 3, 2004 10:10 PM
Hi Nick and welcome to the forum

Perhaps starting with older less expensive to get ones skills up is a good idea. MR has downloads for your information and you might check your LHS for thier input, especialy if they carry brass, if not, it may be worth your effort to find a hobby shop that does. Hopefull a knowelegable person is reading this and about to give a reply, Click the "Watch this topic" under your post so that you can find it.

I"m personaly not into steam but there is a mulitude of great modelers that are. Good luck and enjoy the greatest hobbie in the world. Take care...John
John Warren's, Feather River Route WP and SP in HO
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  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
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Posted by bogp40 on Friday, December 3, 2004 11:20 PM
Welcome Nick,
I also model B&O- along w/ C&O, WM thu Chessie. Not into steam as you are, however, I do plan to model a Q-3. B&O yahoo group had a thread going a few weeks back listing the detail parts required and a site showing the progress of the project. The cab mods for the firemans seat seem to be the most involved part. If you don't have any luck locating from yahoo group, e-mail me for the list and will try to locate the site.
If anyone knows this site, please post for Nick as I thought I had saved it.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 4, 2004 6:17 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp

Welcome Nick,
I also model B&O- along w/ C&O, WM thu Chessie. Not into steam as you are, however, I do plan to model a Q-3. B&O yahoo group had a thread going a few weeks back listing the detail parts required and a site showing the progress of the project. The cab mods for the firemans seat seem to be the most involved part. If you don't have any luck locating from yahoo group, e-mail me for the list and will try to locate the site.
If anyone knows this site, please post for Nick as I thought I had saved it.
Bob K.


Nick/Bob,
Here is the address of the B&O yahoo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/baltimore_and_ohio

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Posted by areibel on Saturday, December 4, 2004 8:04 AM
Hi Nick,
Painting brass isn't any more difficult than painting plastic, just takes practice. If you want to dabble, get a couple sheets of brass from a hobby shop and practice on them- they're easier to strip if you mess anything up!!
The key is making sure the brass is CLEAN!! The best thing is to dis assemble it and wash it down in detergent (like Dawn for dishes) and warm water. That should get off the fingerr prints, soldering flux, etc.. If it's an older model and it's badly tarnished or corrosion is present, that needs to be removed. I've seen some products you dip the model into, but you can do the same thing with a soft toothbrush and either some baking soda or toothpaste. Make sure you get all the residue off then wash again.
I've heard of people that bake the paint on in an oven, a couple hours at 150-180 degrees but I've always been too chicken to try it- figured there would be something I missed that would get damaged.
I think the hardest part is getting the feel of the airbrush, how thin the paint should be, how close to spray from, etc.. all the "technique" things. That's where practicing on something nice and flat will help you get started.
Al
Cambridge Springs- Halfway from New York to Chicago on the Erie Lackawanna!
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Posted by Virginian on Saturday, December 4, 2004 10:40 AM
Sounds like a great start to me.
Painting brass is easier than plastic. Hard to beat good old Floquil engine black. I would suggest mixing that with a little gray or white, just to get it SLIGHTLY less black. Detail shows up a lot better. I had never used an airbrush and dove in years ago and started painting N&W Class J's, K's, and A's, and never had a problem, or a regret. The disassembly and re-assembly is the hardest part, IMO.
The Athearn 2-8-2 is a very neat little engine, but you may want to add some weight to the front end while you're about it.
How long before you succumb and get an EM-1, that's the only real question.
What could have happened.... did.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 4, 2004 12:18 PM
Thank you very much for all of the replies. It is nice to meet all of you.

Nick

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