Hi rrebell:
I didn't mean to imply your post was wrong. I hope you didn't take my comment that way. In fact, I was agreeing with you fully. Unfortunately, the only option short of drowning the existing decals with more clear coat is to do what you said the next time.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Sorry for the misread, thought he was talking future tasks.
kh25,
Are you viewing it under a light source stronger than your layout lighting? Often, only a stronger light will show up those edges. For future reference, 1. as mentioned above, 2. apply decals to glossy surface, 3. float the decals in place on a puddle of water, one at a time and touch the corner of a Kleenex near the edge to wick away excess water when you've got it wheree you want it, 4. use a decal solvent--without touching the decal, just get near it--so soften the decal film and drive out the rest of the water, 5. if you can use very light touch with a very soft paintbrush, sort of paint whatever edge you have beyond the printing to thin the film--and stretch the film over protruding detail: rivets, board grooves, etc.
Let the new lettering set overnight, or if you do the work in the morning, until evening. I've often found a faint rime around the decals, which can be scrubbed away with cotton swabs. And once the decal is really fixed in place, then airbrush a clear dull coat over the whole area to kill the shine. I used to own a hobby shop and when i had some of my MDC/Roundhouse "Old-timer" freight cars and a Consol, lettered for my home road, on display, several customers insisted they wanted that road name. I had to explain that it wasn't available commercially. No brag--it surprised me, too.
Good luck and Happy Modelin'; I'm glad to know newbies are enjoying all phases of The Best Hobby Ever. Welcome, welcome, welcome; the more the merrier!
Deano
Sometimes you can hide it with the weathering.
j...............
For future reference:
rrebell cut as close to the image as possible.
Here's a photo of a $1200 factory painted Overland locomotive. You can see the decal edge just ahead of the "2" in 214.
Sometimes you just can not hide the fact that there is a decal there. When I have the choice I use dry transfers but there are fewer suppliers of these.
Microscale uses exceptionally thin film, some early Walthers decals were very thick and subsequently, nearly impossible to hide. It is surely one of the drawbacks of painting and lettering your own equipment.
The "laser" sharp printing done at the factory is nearly impossible to duplicate at home.
Good Luck, Ed
If you already sprayed clear coat over the decal, I think you are stuck with what you have. Solvaset won't penetrate the the coating.
Solvaset or other, also cut as close to the image as possible.
Should I spray another coat of gloss over the flat?
After decaling I sprayed a couple coats of flat over the car looks good except at certain angles you can see the decal film what can I do to get rid of it before weathering?