Hi Tom:
Yes, you are probably right. I debated which order to do it but yours makes more sense.
Thanks
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi Dave,
Just a suggestion: You may want to edit your original post(s) with the warning rather than tagging it at the end of the thread(s). That way it doesn't get missed because someone didn't scroll all the way to the end. And perhaps using the strikethrough feature would help draw attention to it.
Again, just a suggestion...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
WARNING!!
I gave this advice a while ago. It may be wrong:
hon30critter Consider investing in some Nano Oil. I suggest just buying the #10 and #85 grades only (I haven't tried their grease, and the #5 grade is a penetrating oil for seized joints). Here is one example of why I am impressed with their products: Not too long ago I bought a BullAnt power truck from Hollywood Foundaries in Australia. They are finely built mechanisms but according to the manufacturer they require about 2 hours of run in time to get optimal performance. I powered the brand new BullAnt briefly and noted the speed at which it ran with the factory installed grease. Then I used tiny amounts of Nano Oil #10 on the motor bearings and #85 on the gears. I then re-applied the same power and within a few seconds the speed increased significantly. I'm guessing about 30% but I had no way of measuring it.
Please read this:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/261415.aspx
For bearings on axles, LaBelle 108 plastic compatible. For gears, LaBelle 102 gear oil, again plastic compatible.
Dave Nelson
Well, I use grease on the gears and oil on the motor bearings and axles, and powdered graphite on the couplers. Auto parts stores sell white moly grease in small tubes suitable for model railroading. 3 in 1 oil is sold everywhere and works just fine. For that matter any light oil, sewing machine oil, clock oil, or the like is fine. Hardware stores sell powdered graphite in small tubes to lubricate locks.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I use Woodland Scenics Hob-E Lube and for the finer spots I use light slot car oil..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Hi caboose63:
My answer to which grades of La Belle oil/grease to use is 'none of the above'!
Seriously, I have used La Belle products in the past and they are good. However, you can do better. Consider investing in some Nano Oil. I suggest just buying the #10 and #85 grades only (I haven't tried their grease, and the #5 grade is a penetrating oil for seized joints).
Here is one example of why I am impressed with their products:
Not too long ago I bought a BullAnt power truck from Hollywood Foundaries in Australia. They are finely built mechanisms but according to the manufacturer they require about 2 hours of run in time to get optimal performance. I powered the brand new BullAnt briefly and noted the speed at which it ran with the factory installed grease. Then I used tiny amounts of Nano Oil #10 on the motor bearings and #85 on the gears. I then re-applied the same power and within a few seconds the speed increased significantly. I'm guessing about 30% but I had no way of measuring it.
I think that with that ability to improve performance on 'rough' (i.e. not run in) gears I'm not going to use anything else. Yes, it is a bit more expensive per tube, but you only need the #10 and #85 grades.
http://nano-oil.com/Products.html
I have no affiliation with the company.
The ones recommended for HO would be my stab in the dark. I bought 102, 106, 107, 108 to cover my modeling needs.
I just acquired àn Àthearn SW1000 and wonder what # number of la belle oil and grease to use on gears wormshaft of locomotive.