Powering Atlas Custom-Line turnout frogs

[Medina1128]

I recently found out that you need a 1-72 screw to attach a wire to the Atlas line of Customer-Line turnouts to power the frog. What I didn't know until I got ready to attach the wire was that the lug to attach the wire is that the hole is untapped. Any attempt to force the screw in will probably result in breaking the lug or getting the screw stuck in the hole and breaking it while trying to remove it.

I ordered a 1-72 tap from Micromark this morning. That part of the track laying will just have to wait. Since the screws I ordered from them are brass, I intend to tap the hole, then solder a wire to the screw, then set the turnout in place.

As with ANY hole tapping project:

• Use a light oil to aid your tap in cutting the threads.
• After a turn or two of your tap, reverse it to remove any chips. Those chips can jam and break your tap.
• Clean the hole with a mild solvent or dishwashing detergent to remove the oil.

[gmpullman]

Good advice!

I always remember tapping brass and cast iron dry. That got me to thinking about various tapping fluids. I use Tap Magic for most of my critical tapping jobs. 

http://www.smithy.com/machining-reference/drilling/page/21

I have several of the larger Atlas turnouts and they have a lug molded under the tie for wiring the frog. Too bad they didn't use this on all their designs.

At least you caught this before laying the turnouts! Trying to drill the roadbed and tap the frog after it is in place can be a trick!

Good Luck, Ed

[Medina1128]

gmpullman

At least you caught this before laying the turnouts! Trying to drill the roadbed and tap the frog after it is in place can be a trick! Good Luck, Ed

I install the screw from the bottom. First, I press the turnout on the roadbed to make a mark on the roadbed (I use cork from Midwest), then drill a hole through the roadbed and subroadbed. Then, I pull the wire through and the turnout's in place.

[rrinker]

I install brass 1-72 screws in a couple dozen Custom Line turnouts withotu tapping the hole first. I also installed the screw fromt he underside, so no out of scale screwhead would show on top. Lay the turnout flat on the bench so the frog is supported and just slowly work the screw in, no need to press hard. Not a one ever broke the hole. I'm not concerned with removing the screw - not sure why you would. A feeder wire is soldered to the screw head. The screw is run in until the bottom of the screw is even with the top of the hole in the frog - the exposed brass bottom of the screw I hit with grimy black paint to hide the shiny brass color.

You can barely see teh bottom of the screw on this one, this is before the screw or the rails were painted as this was test fitting (note the t pins holding the turnotu in place) http://www.readingeastpenn.com/images/construction2/trexlertown3.jpg

                --Randy

[zstripe]

Marlon,

I have quite a few Atlas #4 manual turnouts on an Industrial section of the layout and they were already installed, ballasted etc. I like running very slow speeds in that area, so I was having a little problem sometimes with a slight stall. I did not want to remove the turnouts....so I drilled a hole right through the inside tab with hole that is not taped on top and run a #24 gauge solid wire down the hole, with a 90 degree 1/16'' bend at the top and used a flat head black 1-72 1/8'' long screw and it taped itself right into the hole with the wire, as solid as can be...it worked so well, I did all turnouts that way. From far and being inside the frog angle, you can't see it, unless You are close and right above it. This is how they looked, without trying to camouflage the screw head.

If I ever get around to it, I may.....seeing the screw dosn't bother Me in the least...performance does!

Take Care! 

Frank

[Medina1128]

Thanks for the tips, guys!

[FrankG]

Good info. Thanks FrankG 

[zstripe]

I just replaced the photo that was missing from My post above.

Take Care! 

Frank