Recently purchased a custom painted Walthers 30' Wood Caboose w/3 windows-offset cupola. It runs fine on the main loop, but when I run it through an Atlas Snap Switch, it derails. Investigation shows that the wheels hit the steps of the caboose.
I understand that Snap Switches aren't the best, but for such a short car, I was surprised to find that problem. I can just hack away the steps, but on a custom painted one, I hate to make a mess of the job. I could try raising the body, but that would throw the coupler height off.
I'm sure I'm not the first to have this problem, thoughts on a reasonable solution will be greatfully received.
Thank you,
Richard
Richard, if this is the Walthers plastic caboose I am thinking of (a Grand Trunk Western prototype) yes there is a problem: the caboose wheelbase is true to prototype but our sharper curves cause this interference problem. It has been noted with other caboose models too, not just Walthers. That is why so many caboose models have wheelbases that are not prototypically accurate but which "work" on our layouts. Whether Walthers was "wrong" to follow the prototype is a matter of opinion and discussion. But there it is.
THere has been more than one article in the model press, including MR, about how to deal with it. I seem to recall a very recent article on kitbashing a Central of Vermont caboose that addressed it. The May 2003 issue of MR has an article by Jim Hediger on page 40 that is very helpful. Jim provides two solutions - either carefully carving away the plastic that interferes, or making a small modification to the wheelbase by moving the bolsters. He describes that as somewhat more involved, but given your concern about a custom paint job, perhaps that is the better choice for you.
I seem to recall that some modelers have used the narrower "code 88" wheels and found the problem was resolved but you have snap switches that would cause problems with those closer-to-prototype-width wheels. So I'd suggest going to the All Access Pass and look up the May 2003 issue page 40 and beyond and read what Jim Hediger suggests.
Dave Nelson
If this is it, it looks like the wheels are in between the steps.
https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-103254
Jan 16 MR has an article kitbashing this caboose and the author had the same problem. He cut the bolsters off and rotated them 180 degrees. Not having the model in hand, I don't see why this makes more room but he says he got a scale 1' on each end.
look at 43 sec on this video
http://mrr.trains.com/videos/issue-preview/2015/11/video-inside-the-january-2016-model-railroader
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Let's ask a all important question.. Did you have to install the grabs? If you did this may be a early run and the issue is the trucks hits the steps or coupler box IIRC.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I bought a box of two of these about ten years ago. They would not go around 22" curves.
I filed/sanded the inside corner of the steps until they worked. It is not necessary to file a hole, just thin the material.
Dave
cowman I could try raising the body, but that would throw the coupler height off.
Even if you use overset couplers?
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
----------------------------------------
That's a stop gap.. Its best to fix the problem without the need to use a over/underset coupler.
Its a simple fix like David M said..
Thank you all for your responses.
Dave, I do have the May 03 issue in a marked box, now just to dig down to it. Also, Henry I will be getting the Jan 16 issue soon, as I share subscriptions with another modeler and you are correct that is the caboose in question.
Larry, the custom painter put the model together, but it does look like they were added on grabs.
Dave M - after you mentioned it, I have the 2 pk in Central VT colors. They are in storage, awaiting space on the new layout. Will have to see if they have the same problem. At least I'll get some pratice if all of them have the same problem.
Dave (steemtrain) had thought of the off set couplers, but as a last resort. as Larry suggests.
Dave seems to be a popular name to answer this question, thank you all, as well as the other responders.
Now to find, read and perform the necessary surgery.
Thanks again,
Dave are overset couplers longer?
Richard, you can see that video without a subscription, pause it at whatever time I mentioned and blow up the screen and you can read where he discusses the modification.
Hi Richard:
I have a pair of the Walthers cabooses which had the same problem. The suggestion by both Daves about trimming the steps works. Here is a picture of the trimmed steps taken while the cabooses were being modified:
The clearance is still really tight. If you want a little more clearance you could file the truck bearing caps down a bit.
Dave #3
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Dave #3,
What did you find to be the best tool for the trimming work?
Thanks for the photo.
Hi Richard.
I just used a #11 X-acto blade and shaved the steps off a bit at a time until the wheels cleared. The cuts come pretty close to opening up a hole in the back of the steps but if you are careful you can avoid that.
I braced the steps against my workbench with the ladders and end railings hanging over the edge of the bench.
I fixed one of those for a friend, and found the easiest (and least destructive) solution was to remove the car's frame and then cut it on either side of the bolsters. I don't have the car in front of me, but you need to measure how far back the bolster needs to be moved, then cut the frame behind the coupler box and, between the trucks, the needed distance from the truck fastening point, then turn the bolster end-for-end. Carefully realign everything, especially the coupler boxes, then cement the pieces to the car's floor. Basically, you're just transferring frame length from between the two trucks to between each truck and it's adjacent coupler. Takes about 10 minutes if you have the tools at hand.
Wayne
The three Daves' solution of trimming the back of the steps takes about 9 minutes less than doctorwayne's, but if you want to do it right use his method.
I did like Wayne wrote and solved the problem without touching the steps. Longer to do but better results IMHO.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Thanks for the additional information. Will pick up the Jan issue from my friend in a week or so. In the meantime I will find one of the stock models to pratice on. I found out what box it is in, now to dig it out. I'll save the custom paint job until I figure out what will work best for me.
Ran into this issue with a Walthers wood Union Pacific caboose. Because it was for a friend's invented railroad, I replaced the long-wheelbase wood-beam with Kadee's shorter wheelbase caboose trucks. Problem solved, and I still have a pair of trucks to use elsewhere.
Graham Line,
Interesting possibility. They list several different ones, do you remember which one you used?
I don't have the packaging around any more but believe it was the
There are others with a similar wheelbase. The Walthers wood-beam UP caboose trucks are noticeably longer.
Thank you, may make a small order and give them a try.