My paternal grandfather was a cabinet-maker by trade. He told his son, my father, that when making a bond between pieces of wood one should smear the glue by scrubbing the two pieces together back and forth before clamping the joint. This helped to get the glue into all the tiny crevices which has the effect of greatly increasing the surface area on which the glue can act once it is dried. This, the surface area bonded, and the close proximity of the wood during clamping, is what creates the most durable and strongest bonds.
Thank you all for your sugestions. For the gentlman who asked - I am going to start building those old Ambroid wooden car kits that I have been collecting.
I use Elmer's Pro-Bond wood glue for larger joints. I've also made furniture with it and I have never had a joint come loose despite daily use.
However, for smaller joints or assemblies with multiple pieces I use gel CA with a kicker. I find that allows work to progress at a reasonable pace without having to stop for a few minutes between each joint to let things firm up.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Duco cement is the same stuff and my hardware store had it in stock not that long ago. The generic name is "cellulose cement". I use it for joints that don't require great strength 'cause it dries hard enough to handle in a minute and you don't have to clamp it.
I use PVA glues, (Elmer's, Titebond, white, or yellow) for joints that need real strength, say glueing the end blocks to the roof and floor of a passenger car model. With a good fitting joint, clamped, the resulting joint is nearly as strong as the original wood.
Superglue and epoxy will stick to wood and give a strong joint but they are more expensive and messier than cellulose cement or PVA glues.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
For wood to wood, wood to matboard...I have been using nothing but Northeastern's Glue, very strong, dries in 5 min. not necessary to clamp. I used to build wood ship models in the 50's/60's era and used Ambroid.....about the only thing they had at the time that was any good, but You had to be careful not to get it on any surface that would show, that would screw up Your paint job...especially Mahogany.....this glue You can wipe off with a wet cotton swab before it dries, if You want.
https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/glue/flamgk.html
I also have used some of which others have mentioned, but I prefer the Flamingo.
Take Care!
Frank
I build lots of wood kits. I used to use thick CA but now just use white glue. Got some CA built buildings 15 years old and still fine but one did lose a brace but then maybe that one brace was done wrong at the get-go.
when I did RC gliders, cyanoacrylate was fast and worked very well. Cyanoacrylate is very thin, is easily absorbed into the wood (usually balsa) and creates fibrous bonds between the pieces that is very strong and light.
I was told, and believe, that the reason we clamp pieces together when using titebond, like all aliphatic glues, is to help force the glue into the wood, making the joint stronger.
And when I needed to glue curved sheeting over the ribs of a wing, I used the trick of applying titebond to both surfaces and letting is dry. I could then heat the surfaces latter, press the surface together and get a solid joint quickly as it cooled.
different glues and usages for different purposes.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
For models, I have been using Titebond Original Wood Glue (red label). It seems to work just fine - some glue joints are over 5 years old.
Paul
Are we talking wood kits as in basswood or other fine grain lumber, or are we talking laser cut wood kits which are as a rule thin micro plywood? The micro plywood in my somewhat limited experience seems to do well with ACC (I usually use Zap a Gap medium viscosity, without using the accelerator).
Dave Nelson
I use the same , weldbond white glue. I also use canopy glue.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
I use Weldbond. Works like white glue and sets up quick, but - it doesn't dry brittle hard like regular white glue. Plus, if you did something wrong after it's set, you can hit it with a heat gun and soften it up for re-positioning or removal.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I use titebond 2 (blue label). That being said I have only built 2 wood kits thus far (both branchline). They seem to be holding together pretty well. I used lots of clamps and internal bracing.
I have been gone from the hobby for years -and I understand Ambroid glue is no more? What are modelers using now to assemble wood kits?
Thank you