So today I did an inventory of rolling stock, plenty of hoppers,and box cars. Hoppers in the home road are covered, still need a few more home road boxcars (especially NYC and PC).
Coming up short on flat cars (5) none in hoe road, I only have 2 gons (both home road, but duplicate numbers!)
Then there is the cabeese. Got 4 chessie ones so covered there, about 15 in other road names that won't be used on this layout but only ONE lettered for PC!
Harrumph, need to start looking for the right stuff to fill out the fleet.
Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction
Bowser?
They list several in that hideous NYC Jade Green color.
I had something like that happen. Did not have enough cabeese for all the trains I could put on the layout. So I went on a caboose buy/build spree. Starting with this troop, an Ambroid all wood kit from the 1960's
And then we have this, a Roundhouse kit with side door. I don't believe the B&M actually had any cabeese like this, but I can imagine one. Roundhouse claimed the prototype was Illinois Central. Side door to allow a bit of express package handling.
And then we have this Roundhouse kit. I actually have prototype photos of this fellow, so it really did run on the B&M.
And the same kit from Roundhouse only sporting the McGuinnis paint scheme
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Bowser has N5s and N8s, good for PRR, PC, and CR.
Really........does one ever have enough cabooses? lol
Roger Huber
I'm going to have four cabooses for Conrail. Two for general service from Atlas and Bowser. One for MofW, and a transfer caboose from Bluford Shop if I find it.
I was thinking of the two Santa Fe cabooses that Atlas made a few years ago to go with the Santa Fe layout.
For my fictional railroad I have two undecorated CO cabooses. I am planning on more probably painted and remove the decals. But we'll see.
Amtrak America, 1971-Present.
So a little digging in the kit/kitbash pile and I've come up with about a dozen gons that would need painted and decaled, about two dozen boxcars that need the same treatment and a half dozen flatcars. Looks like I have about 8 cabeese that I can re decal since they are close to Tuscan red.
I also have spray cans of red oxide and flat black which I can repaint the excess cars with, but does anyone know if something close to jade green is available in spray cans?
I suppose I could get a Preval sprayer.
Has anyone ever tried using latex in a sprayer? I know interior latex can be had in the right color, but would probably need thinned quite a bit to be sprayable. It's certainly cheaper than actual model paint. What would one use for thinner? Straight isopropal?
For your PC jade green, I'd just take a color chip or a model painted jade green to the paint department of your local big box and compare it with all the rattle cans on sale. Buy the one that looks closest. To be really sure, paint some bit of scrap and let it dry, and compare again. Also, give it a top coat of DullCote and see what you think. I found that Dull Cote softened an ordinary bright red down to a very acceptable passenger car maroon.
I use rattle can red auto primer on my freight cars with good results. I use dark gray auto primer rather than flat black for black cars (hoppers usually). It is a very dark gray that looks good and black under indoor (layout) lighting but allows you to see more detail on the rolling stock. All my steam engines are painted with dark gray auto primer.
ruderunnerLooks like I have about 8 cabeese that I can re decal since they are close to Tuscan red.
Are you trying to have any prototypical accuracy? Then the Bowser N5s and N8s are what you need. If you don't care about that, then never mind.
maxman ruderunner Looks like I have about 8 cabeese that I can re decal since they are close to Tuscan red. Are you trying to have any prototypical accuracy? Then the Bowser N5s and N8s are what you need. If you don't care about that, then never mind.
ruderunner Looks like I have about 8 cabeese that I can re decal since they are close to Tuscan red.
ruderunner Then there is the cabeese...only ONE lettered for PC!
Then there is the cabeese...only ONE lettered for PC!
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/932-27629
Ed
I had a similar realization of cabooselessness a few yars ago. I was amazed to find how rare proper roadname/style caboose are that don't cost an arm and a leg. Even the Walther's DM&IR style caboose painted for NP are the wrong paint scheme. Can't find any mass markets NYC cabooses.
http://www.intermountain-railway.com/distrib/ccs/ccsho.html
http://www.atlasrr.com/HOFreight/hone6caboose.htm
http://www.atlasrr.com/HOFreight/hone6caboose4.htm
http://www.atlasrr.com/HOFreight/hone6caboose6.htm
http://www.atlastrainman.com/HOFreight/tmhocupcab.htm
All of the above have jade green cabooses. The NE-5 and NE-6's are former New Haven cabooses. I don't know if the Trainman caboose is accurate or not.The Atlas NE-6 is a great caboose. I have 12 of them. The InterMountain NE-5 is also nice (even better detail) but then it's twice the price.Paul A. Cutler III
Thanks for the links and info guys. I'm OK having incorrect cabeese right now as long as its not a glaring error. Someone can easily pick up on a PC loco pulling a UP caboose. But not as easy to tell if it's the wrong model caboose.
Right now its make do with what oi have, money needs spent to finish the benchwork.
OTOH, if I can pull off a paint and decal job, in do have some cabeese that are closer to prototypical. Trying it out on scrappers makes more sense.
ruderunnerI suppose I could get a Preval sprayer.
If you want to use one of these then you can mix your own acrylic craft paints (Walmart or Hobby Lobby) to get a close match. I mix these colors all the time but Vallejo paints are much better for airbrushing (also more expensive!) but worth it to me. I perfer the Ceramacoat brand of the cheap acrylics as they seem to have more pigment in them so you get better coverage. Just a suggestion.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!