You don't say what style of bridge this is for, but since I hand lay all my track, I find it very easy to make my own wood bridge ties from 8 x 8" (approx 3/32 in HO ) wood stock. I use diluted India Ink and 70% Isopropyl Alcohol to stain the ties. Rail is held in place using pliobond under the rail. Rail is heat treated with a hot soldering iron as it is gauged on the bridge. Here is a project I am working on now (Still needs the Guard Rails after the bridge is placed on the layout).
73
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
If you went up MD 30 into Hanover, PA, you passed not far from my house.
I was in downtown Baltimore, proubly been thru your area as we went to PA more than once and more than one way.
I'm about 35 miles north of Baltimore, still in Maryland, but not far from the PA line.
jcopilotIf I were local, I'd accept. Thanks for the offer, but I'm on the east coast and you're on the west, just a little too far apart, I'm afraid.
Another option is to use the code 83 as is and install transition joiners (Atlas #551) between the code 100 and 83. I use them on both my home layout and model railroad club modules. They require some care in installation and work best when soldered.
They still make Shinohara code 100 bridge track, if you were local I'd give you a peice as I got a bunch in a lot I bought once.
http://www.shop.cvmw.com/72ftLongBridgeTies-2-1903-2.htm
Add your own rail.
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
I took a piece of Atlas flex track, removed the ties (not all at once) and clipped the webbing, then put it back together.
I use some old brass track for guard rails. It was tedious, but not difficult and it didn't take as long as I though it would..
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I cut out the code 83 rail from the bridge track and replaced it with code 100 rail that I cut from some old flex track. I secured it to the plastic ties with CA.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Sinohara used to make Code 100 bridge track--I used it when I was constructing my 4 large bridges on my Yuba River Sub, but this was more than ten years ago. I know that Walthers distributes Sinohara, so you might check the Walthers catalogue. One thing--the inner guard rails on the Sinohara are the same as the running rails---Code 100, so I would suggest painting them rust to make them look smaller.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
I've never seen any code 100 bridge track.
You can sorta make your own by clipping the plastic web that connects the ties together on your regular flex track and slide the ties closer. This doesn't address the thickness issue, but at least it looks ok from above.
Or you could just use the code 100 to 83 transition joiners.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Does anyone know of a company making bridge track (with closely spaced ties) with code 100 rail? All of my track is code 100 and I have some Micro Engineering bridges that come with code 83 bridge track, so I'd like to swap that out for some code 100.
I know there are code 83-100 transition rail joiners and even code 83-100 transition track, but they are plans B and C, I'd prefer plan A, bridge track with code 100 rail.
Anyone know of any?
Thanks,
jcopilot