track agggrrrhhhhhh

[Anonymous]

Thanks

for all of the replies
I will start again and I think I will go with the code 100 shinohara.

[CP5415]

I'm using code 100 all the way around my layout.

All of the Shinohara switches that I've had for a while were all code 100, & since there wasn't anything wrong with them, I decided to stay with code 100.

Gordon

[twhite]

If you go with code 100--which I did for the main (yards are code 83) after it's ballasted and painted, nobody's going to know the difference anyway. Painting the track seems to reduce the size, for some strange reason. None of my friends believe that it's code 100, and that's fine with me. I'm probably very old-fashioned or something, but I just like the heft of code 100 better. And don't ask me why, but the Sinohara code 100 turnouts just seem a little more reliable than the Walthers/Sihohara code 83. They're certainly a lot tougher.
Tom

[fiatfan]

I can't really add to what Bob has said. I also use Atlas code 83 track. The only problem I've had in a year and a half is one switch that shifted slighty during the transition from summer to winter. Keep everything in gauge and you should have no problems.

Good luck!

Tom

(edited for spelling)

[Noah Hofrichter]

I too did the same thing a few months ago, as my track hadn't been layed very well by me in the first place. I ripped it all up and re-layed it, adding an industry ot two, and am still perfecting it. It just takes time to get it all right, you'll get it eventually.

Noah

[Anonymous]

My third and fourth (current) layout were both laid with code 83 Atlas rail and Walthers switches. MR ran an article about bullit proofing track. when you lay a curve be sure that it is the same radius all the way around. Buy a Ribbonrail track gage and use it to lay your curves. TALK TO YOUR HOBBY SHOP WORKER. One of the mistakes newbies make is to buy everythinbg from the mail order dealer and then they have no one to guide them through the tough spots. When I lay a couple of switches I make sure that thay work right before I move on to some more track. When laying thack spend a lot of time checking the gage, even on flex-track.

The July 2004 MR had an article called "How to Lay Track Perfectly", just forget about the superelevated part as that's not a job for a newbie.

If you take your time it'll work well and then you will enjoy running trains and not get frustrated with the derailments. Derailments are caused by trucks or track, use you NMRA gage to find out which is at fault. If several cars derail at the same place it's probably the track, if one truck keeps derailing it could be the truck.

First a formost DON'T SAVE MONEY WHEN YOU BUY TRACK AND SWITCHES buy good supplies and it makes it easier down the road.

If you want to e-mail me I'm available at [e-mail]

Where is Sachse Texas I live just south of Beaumont.

Have a good day
Bob

[Anonymous]

So now after a few months of frustration I am going to rip out my track and do it over with a better code of track.
My goal is to have fun and I am not having any at all constantly fixing track issues is not fun and I do not want to do that for the next few years.

So it seems code 83 has a good following but even if code 100 is out of guage seems it is the best choice for non finicky track work.

any commnets welcomed