Operating a BLI on DCC

[Soo Line fan]

richhotrain

 

 

Soo Line fan

This is my speed racer - a AHM trolley. Not sure if it can keep up with the switcher but its pretty fast

 

 

 

 

Jim, did you buy that from Frank?   

 

Rich

 

Yeah and he drove a hard bargin for it too. 

[richhotrain]

Soo Line fan

This is my speed racer - a AHM trolley. Not sure if it can keep up with the switcher but its pretty fast

 

Jim, did you buy that from Frank?   

Rich

[Soo Line fan]

This is my speed racer - a AHM trolley. Not sure if it can keep up with the switcher but its pretty fast

[rrinker]

 Aww shucks guys

 I don't know what was faster, one of those Athearn rubber band drives or the AHM MDT switcher - that little switcher would go so fast it would roll off the track on a curve, just like a Lionel. The trick was to hit a speed that just lifted the inside wheels, dropping contact so it would slow down and power back up. whirr...whi...whi...whi...whirr. Someone brought an Athearn rubber band RDC to the club one time, quite fast but even more impressive was the car length snap back if you killed power while it was running full speed.

              --Randy

 

[richhotrain]

Soo Line fan

 

 

richhotrain

My most recent example is Randy's suggestion to turn off the BEMF on my super slow Intermountain loco. That suggestion worked, and it saved my sanity.

 

 

So I guess you will not be taking Frank up on the rubber band drive offer?

 

I woulda, but he wanted to keep the rubber band.  I just thought that was stretching things a bit too far.   

Rich

[Soo Line fan]

richhotrain

My most recent example is Randy's suggestion to turn off the BEMF on my super slow Intermountain loco. That suggestion worked, and it saved my sanity.

So I guess you will not be taking Frank up on the rubber band drive offer?

[richhotrain]

selector

This is a bit beside the point, but I would like to mention that Randy was my go-to DCC guy way back (for my short history in the hobby) in 2006 when I was first dabbling in DCC. Randy, you talked me through CV settings, and I'll never forget the gratitude I felt that you patiently informed me how to deal with them.  Here you are, years later, still responding to the needs of new folk confounded by DCC.  What's more, you reliably answer such questions time after time. 

You're an asset to this forum.

-Crandell

 

Crandell, I could not agree more with your sentiments regarding Randy. He is an outstanding asset to the forum.  There are some other notables as well on this forum, but Randy is the first to come to mind.  My most recent example is Randy's suggestion to turn off the BEMF on my super slow Intermountain loco. That suggestion worked, and it saved my sanity.

Rich

[selector]

This is a bit beside the point, but I would like to mention that Randy was my go-to DCC guy way back (for my short history in the hobby) in 2006 when I was first dabbling in DCC. Randy, you talked me through CV settings, and I'll never forget the gratitude I felt that you patiently informed me how to deal with them.  Here you are, years later, still responding to the needs of new folk confounded by DCC.  What's more, you reliably answer such questions time after time. 

You're an asset to this forum.

-Crandell

[richhotrain]

dudu made a bunch of replies to his second thread so the 5-thread monitoring rule elapsed before this thread, one of his first 5 posts, cleared moderation.

Rich

[rrinker]

 Yeah but this one just appeared, at the top of the list, this afternoon!

                    --Randy

[richhotrain]

rrinker

 Good old moderated status strikes again.

                --Randy

 

LOL   We have seen this before.  An OP starts a thread.  No replies within the first few hours, so OP starts another thread with the same issue. 

Rich

[rrinker]

 Good old moderated status strikes again.

                --Randy

[richhotrain]

rrinker

 Yup, and that poster said there was no instruction book. I wonder if the same thing is happening here, no instructions provided, but not by accident, just BLI trying to save a few cents. Which if this is indeed the case, is clearly a bad choice, two people in 2 days with the exact same problem.

                          --Randy

 

This is the same OP with the same problem.  It looks like this thread was posted the day before the other thread that we all replied to.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/252307/2816849.aspx#2816849

Rich

[rrinker]

 Yup, and that poster said there was no instruction book. I wonder if the same thing is happening here, no instructions provided, but not by accident, just BLI trying to save a few cents. Which if this is indeed the case, is clearly a bad choice, two people in 2 days with the exact same problem.

                          --Randy

[richhotrain]

Wait a minute.  Didn't we just go through all of this in a different thread?

Rich

[rrinker]

 You haven't connected the cable that goes between the tender and the loco. There's a slot in the front of the tender where it comes out - it may have gotten pushed in so you might have to fish it out - or take the tender shell off to extract it.

                      --Randy

Are they not coming with instructions any more? If so, you can download the instructions from the BLI site. If they are no longer including the instruction booklets - BOO ON BLI.

 

[dudu]

Hi guys,

First, I am new to DCC. I have an old engine (Athearn) that works just fine on DCC. moving forward, backwards, and headlight.

I have recently bought a BLI PRR H10s. I have a NCE DCC system. 

I have selected the default engine address (03). I am trying to move the steam engine foward, the engine does NOT move. I am pressing function key 9. The steam engine's sound starts up. I can press bell, whistle, etc.

Again, I am trying to move the steam engine forward, but the engine does not move.

Do I have a defective steam engine? Or am I missing something that I have to do before I can operate it.

Please help !!!

George