I use an HO scale ruler as a straightedge, because it's thickness works well as a blade guide when cutting. I have moved away from using Xacto knives, as they can rotate away from a vertical cut at times, particularly with a narrow blade. I now prefer standard "gem- type" straight single edge razor blades for making straight line cuts on decal paper. I use those curved cuticle manicure scissors for rounding cuts, but found that the straight blades do most of my needed cutting. I cut on a glass mat, a tempered glass surface you can get at Michaels Crafts. I always leave some space around each decal to ensure that no immediate edge is created right next to the printed decal lettering or image.
Cedarwoodron
I also use scissors. Could you also use young chilren-type scissors? They are prob smaller and cheaper than much else.
Using an exacto knife is also something I've used for smaller decals.
I use sewing scissors with blades about 1 1/2 inch long. They are very pointy have very fine blades. I think they work better than an xacto knife.
Something to keep in mind .... when trimming decals that have the film itself the shape of the decal, don't cut into the film unless you can cut right up against the print.
The edge of the printed film feathers out flat to the paper. If you cut the film, the film now has a sharp edge instead of a feathered edge. This can made them harder to disappear on the model. The feathered edge will disappear much easier.
I've seen many models where numbers have been cut close to the print, eliminating the feathered edge, and under an angle, you can still see the raised edge where the film was cut. bviously, there are many cases where the print is on a full sheet of film where you have no choice, but if you do, leave that feathered edge in place.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Like Dave, I use a fresh #11 blade, working on a sheet of tempered glass. However, I cut the desired lettering from the sheet with as much blank border as is available. I then use the blade to snick-off the excess paper with a firm downward motion. This prevents the blade from raising the cut edges like it does when the blade is used in a slicing motion, and make it much easier to get the decals' edges to lay flat when it's applied to the model's surface.This is especially important when applying roadnames and such which are comprised of individual letters from an alphabet decal set, or when applying individual numerals, especially very small ones such as those used in dimensional data or air brake test lettering. Use an Optivisor for best results, although non-serif style lettering is easier to do than Railroad Roman.
These are a couple done recently for friends. The heralds and slogans took a lot of chopping to trim all the curved edges, but the well-done decals from the ACL/SAL Historical Society made it worth the effort:
This one was a little easier:
Wayne
hon30critter I use a fresh #11 Xacto blade on a hard surface. Dave
I use a fresh #11 Xacto blade on a hard surface.
Dave
Ditto.
Although I have also used a sharp set of "skizzors". (Small, tiny scissors. Like, micro size. They are maybe 2" long blades.)
But, for most decals, sharp xacto knife, and a hard cutting board. (Some use plate glass. I don't.)
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I have a pair of small, very thin manicure scissors for trimming decals. Very small point for very precise cuts. There are actual decal scissors available which are very similar ....
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I use a pair of plane jane sissors to cut out my decals. Do any of you use something special? I'm looking to trim more of the backing around the decal.
South Penn