Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Substitute for Scenic Cement

19821 views
24 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    June 2015
  • 8 posts
Substitute for Scenic Cement
Posted by pathman on Tuesday, November 17, 2015 7:25 PM

Can you make your own scenic cement using white glue and isopropyl alcohol?

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 1,796 posts
Posted by JoeinPA on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 8:07 AM

Diluting white glue with isopropyl alcohol alone usually leads to clumping of the glue. I have had success with a mixture of glue:water:alcohol in a ratio of 1:3:2. It works well for scenery and ballast.

Joe

  • Member since
    June 2015
  • 8 posts
Posted by pathman on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 8:13 AM
Thanks!
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Chamberlain, ME
  • 5,084 posts
Posted by G Paine on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 8:58 AM
50:50 white glue and water works well also

George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch 

Moderator
  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Waukesha, WI
  • 1,753 posts
Posted by Steven Otte on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 9:06 AM

Many modelers get better results with matte medium. Dilute it between 2:1 and 4:1 with water to get the consistency you want.

--
Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editor
sotte@kalmbach.com

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • 189 posts
Posted by Hobbez on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 9:36 AM

G Paine
50:50 white glue and water works well also
 

IMO, the old standard is still the best.  Experience has taught me that adding alcohol to white glue makes it lumpy.  I fill an old glue bottle just under half with white glue, I use Elmers, (but NOT the school glue variety as it doesnt dry as strong) then I add a drop of Dawn and fill with water.  It's cheap, readily available, and works great.

My layout blog,
The creation, death, and rebirth of the Bangor & Aroostook

http://hobbezium.blogspot.com
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 10:35 AM

I use white glue and water, too, roughly a half and half mix.  Matte medium with water works, too, but it's more expensive and I don't find it in any way superior to white glue.  In fact, if you need to remove ballast in order to lift or move track, you'll need to use alcohol to undo the bond.
Whether you're ballasting or adding ground cover, the key to getting a good bond is sufficiently pre-wetting the arranged material, be it ballast or ground foam.  I use tap water with a few drops of dish detergent, but if your water is especially hard, use distilled water (that from a dehumidifier works well as long as the collection bucket is clean) or, a more expensive alternative, alcohol.  A good quality sprayer is essential for applying the wetting agent.  Be generous when applying it.Here are some photos of a recent ballasting job:

Ballast applied:

Ballast groomed:

Ballast wetted:

Glue applied:

A couple of days later, after fully hardened, track back in service:

Wayne

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 11:57 AM

Just me being weird again, I’ve been using Elmer’s Glue All (straight) 6:1 with tap water for years and have always had excellent scenery results.  That’s 6 gallons of scenic glue for $13.  Always works fantastic for me.
 
At 6:1 the consistency is very close to WS, I like mine thin and it dries faster.
 
For ballasting a fine spray with diluted dish detergent first works great.
 
Above all the most important thing is your tools, using a good quality fine mist sprayer to apply the glue is very important!  Good sprayer, no redos.
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,253 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 12:54 PM

My medium of choice is Mod-Podge. I have never used the Woodland Scenics stuff so can't compare but I did buy a $30 bottle of matte medium and saw no difference in this stuff. Mod-Podge comes in many varieties so be sure you get the matte finish.

I use the same techniques as Wayne with one exception. After the track is painted and the area vacuumed, I'll use a fairly wide brush, 5/16 or 3/8 (8-10mm) and brush the beveled edges of the cork with Mod-Podge full strength. I might wet the area lightly with wet water to get the cement to flow a little better.

Then I sprinkle ballast lightly on the glued edges and allow it to set, 24 hours.

For the final ballast gluing I dilute the Mod-Podge about 4 parts distilled water to 1 part Mod-Podge with maybe a tablespoon of alcohol. The alcohol doesn't affect the Mod-Podge like it does Elmer's.

I then go back with Wayne's method. To me this gives me a more pronounced edge and saves on ballast since it doesn't flow off the edge of the cork. It adds one more step but ballasting should never be rushed anyway.

http://www.amazon.com/Podge-CS11302-Original-16-Ounce-Finish/dp/B001IKES5O

Good luck, Ed

 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,591 posts
Posted by rrebell on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 1:06 PM

he asked about Scenic cement!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  It is matt medium deluted. 1 part matt to about 6 parts water for Liquitex is about what they use but I find 1 to 4 works better.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,253 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 1:31 PM

rrebell
he asked about Scenic cement!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, he certainly did.

 

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 3:34 PM

Actually, he asked about making your own, and since it wasn't capitalised, he appears to be looking for a substitute:

pathman

Can you make your own scenic cement using white glue and isopropyl alcohol?

 
Several suggestions have been offered, all valid options in my opinion.
 

gmpullman
After the track is painted and the area vacuumed, I'll use a fairly wide brush, 5/16 or 3/8 (8-10mm) and brush the beveled edges of the cork with Mod-Podge full strength.

I use that method where the surrounding area drops off more steeply, as it helps to hold the subsequently-applied material from slipping:

 

RR_Mel
Above all the most important thing is your tools, using a good quality fine mist sprayer to apply the glue is very important! Good sprayer, no redos.

I used a sprayer once for applying the glue mixture when ballasting, but never again:  it ruined the sprayer, put too much glue where it wasn't wanted, and not enough where it was needed.  Instead, I use a dropper-type plastic bottle, like this one:

Precise application is especially important where you have structures and other details already in place, and it also keeps the glue out of the electrical contact points of turnouts.
 
Wayne
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 4:53 PM

Wayne
 
I shopped around for a sprayer for months before I found one that would work using it with thinned white glue.  I too use a dropper when working in small areas, but the sprayer works very good on large areas with grassy flocking.
 
My wife put me onto Hair Salon bottles, they have several sizes for salon hair goodies that were made for model railroading.
 
 
Edit:
I also need to add the squeeze bottles work great for dispensing WS flocking.  Squeezing the bottle blows the flocking out with almost pin point accuracy
 
The bottle nozzles don't come with holes in the end so you can size the hole for the material you're working with.  They work good for ballast too by cutting the nozzle off enlarging the hole.
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Southern Quebec, Canada
  • 868 posts
Posted by Guy Papillon on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 5:25 PM

I am actually ballasting the last miles of tracks on my layout. I use white glue diluted with water 50:50. As a wetting agent I much prefer to use isopropyl alcohol diluted in water in the proportion 2 to 10 instead of dish soap in the water. With the former formula, I never leave any traces of the wetting agent on nearby scenery like roads and it appears to me that the setting time for the glue is a lot faster. 

 

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,056 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 5:59 PM

You can use either white glue or matte medium mixed with water.

But the key is to spray the area with isopropyl alcohol first, then apply the mix.

The pre-treatment with isopropyl alcohol makes it a lot easier to disperse the mix evenly.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Southern Quebec, Canada
  • 868 posts
Posted by Guy Papillon on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 7:45 PM

Rich,

I recently experimented with both isopropyl alcohol and a mix of 20% isopro alcohol and 80% water. I found the later formula much more effective and, of course, 80% more economical.

 

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Southern California
  • 1,682 posts
Posted by Lone Wolf and Santa Fe on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 9:10 PM

I use Elmer’s glue mixed with water and a drop of soap to ease surface tension. I mix it pretty thin and them drip it on with a paintbrush. Wildly spraying glue everywhere just seems wrong. If you get it all over a structure, especially the windows you may never get it off. I just made a rock garden as landscaping for a restaurant and spraying glue would have been a giant mess for such a small area with exact boundaries.

Modeling a fictional version of California set in the 1990s Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Railroad
  • Member since
    March 2015
  • 1,358 posts
Posted by SouthPenn on Wednesday, November 18, 2015 9:58 PM

I use the water/white glue/dish soap mixture for ground covers.

I use silicone caulk for glueing larger items down.

I use Fabri-Tac to attach items that need a strong hold and sets up fast; like the side of a mountain.

For ballast I use the water/white glue/dish soap mixture with a couple of drops of India Ink. This removes the sheen and slightly darkens the ballast.

I use straight white glue applied with an acid brush on the side of cork roadbed to keep the ballast from sliding off.

After applying the ballast and smoothing with a soft paint brush, I gently tap the rails with the paint brush handle to settle the ballast. Then I flood the ballast with the water/white glue/dish soap/India ink solution, using the drip method. The ballast settles down around the ties for a nice smooth look.

I sometimes use the ballast glue mixture on ground cover to slightly darken some areas.

South Penn

South Penn
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,056 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, November 19, 2015 5:56 AM

Guy Papillon

Rich,

I recently experimented with both isopropyl alcohol and a mix of 20% isopro alcohol and 80% water. I found the later formula much more effective and, of course, 80% more economical.

To each his own, but I think that adding alcohol to the mix is a waste of money.  Water works just fine.  I only use isopropyl alcohol to mist the area before applying the glue/water mix.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,056 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, November 19, 2015 5:59 AM

Lone Wolf and Santa Fe

I use Elmer’s glue mixed with water and a drop of soap to ease surface tension. I mix it pretty thin and them drip it on with a paintbrush. Wildly spraying glue everywhere just seems wrong. 

I agree, but there is no reason to wildy spray the affected area.

I apply the glue/water mix with an eye dropper but only after spraying the affected area with isopropyl alcohol.  To protect the surrounding area, I hold a piece of cardboard right behind the area to be sprayed to contain the alcohol mist.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Southern Quebec, Canada
  • 868 posts
Posted by Guy Papillon on Thursday, November 19, 2015 6:32 AM

richhotrain

 

 
Guy Papillon

Rich,

I recently experimented with both isopropyl alcohol and a mix of 20% isopro alcohol and 80% water. I found the later formula much more effective and, of course, 80% more economical.

 

 

To each his own, but I think that adding alcohol to the mix is a waste of money.  Water works just fine.  I only use isopropyl alcohol to mist the area before applying the glue/water mix.

 

Rich

 

Once again, it seems that my English writing is not up to the task. I wanted to write that the glue mixture is 50% white glue, 50% water. The 20% isopropyl alcoho, 80% water mix is to wet the ballast before applying the glue/water mix.

 

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 618 posts
Posted by DAVID FORTNEY on Thursday, November 19, 2015 11:38 AM

I use white glue for ballast and scenery material. 1/3rd glue, the rest water I also use 70% alcohol for a wetting agent. Dries nice and hard overnight.

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, November 19, 2015 4:17 PM

Guy Papillon
Once again, it seems that my English writing is not up to the task....

 

Don't worry, Guy:  Rich is the only one who didn't get it.  Stick out tongueLaugh

Perhaps he's drinking the alcohol instead of spraying it.

Wayne

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,056 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Thursday, November 19, 2015 5:11 PM

doctorwayne

  

Guy Papillon
Once again, it seems that my English writing is not up to the task....

Perhaps he's drinking the alcohol instead of spraying it.

Wayne

I don't get it???  Huh?

You don't drink the alcohol?  Laugh

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Thursday, November 19, 2015 6:47 PM

Scenic Cement = Matte Medium.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!