Yeah I use the triangle shaped ones with the long black cap, in a pinch there is a advanced auto parts store with in walking distance of home, otherwise I tend to stop by homedepot for it.
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/60361449@N02/
Anthracite Modeler - YouTube
Lowes, and I suspect HD and any other big box store as well, sells the Locktite CA in 10 or 12 packs of very small tubes - this is what I usually get, because any of the big containers always get stopped up or the whole thing hardens before I use even half of it. There's not much in each small tube, but since most things only need a tiny drop, it goes a long way. Plus if the tip should get clogged, or the whole thing harden up on you, it's only a small part of the whole thing, the other unopened tubes stay good for a long time.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I use lock tight super glue for the most part. Its easy to find at convenient locations and sets fast but thats just what I like. If you get it, don't get the large ones that squeeze from the sides, they have a bladder with the glue in it and can get a hole to just ooze everywhere.
Great job. An inspiration for me to start doing some P&R I-2 and I-3 engines.
Do you solder your piping together or is it secured with ACC or an epoxy?
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Thanks, Dan.
I don't remember what company made the gear box, I do remember they were made in the mid to late 90s. I got a hold of one when originally sold that I and for years that went into the LNE 2-8-0. The one used for this one was a random show find picking up a cheap manuta engine that happened to be repowered with it.
One of these days, I'm going to follow your tutorial style of posting and scratch build a boiler, a tender, or at least do some major mods on something. What amazes me most is your start to finish time, you build a loco faster than it takes me to make a few mods. Second most impressive; your ability to make that green putty work for you!
Where did you get that little gear box?
Just amazing stuff! Thanks for sharing. Dan
Ready for Service!
The project has actually been done since Wednesday but I have been waiting for being home when there is natural light. There was only a minor fight with a break shoe on the maiden run so all in all it went together really smoothly.
And the video of it in action, also seen is the Lehigh New England E-8 built on the same Mantua frame.
davidmbedardFan-fricken-tastic awesomesauce! Well done good sir!
Besides a couple steps on the rear of the tender and on the running board it was time to start finalizing the project. This started with doing the rivets which are micromart decal rivets.
Being a long weekend final detailing moved right along.
I even got the caboose I made for the project ready to go.
The project should be all finished by the end of next weekend.
Casey ... Thanks for showing your work. I am amazed at what you do with styrene.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Having seen many of these locos in person, I can safely say they look even better close up than they do in the pictures. Simply amazing work. Can't wait to see the next creations.
Acy- all in good time haha. My project list is rather long and continually growing. I tend to do projects in order of opportunity in finding cheap donor engines at shows. There are some times I am specifically looking for something to get but for the most part I try to get the most out of my money. But I will say a Reading I-7 is a project in the very near future, I just plan on doing something else first.
Charles- The gear box I have and motor are in place it is just not wired up yet enough to run and really make sure the running gear works the way I think it does. I try to do that before the more fragile parts go on.
Thanks!
Oh yea and I realized that you haven't added the gear box and motor in yet. Are you planning to put that in last?
Charles
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
I usually read your posts with my mouth hanging open and my eyes bulging out. I do love to see this stuff, and I admire your resourcefulness.
It is presumptuous to suggest a project for you. You seem to be able to make pretty good choices on your own. Nevertheless, I'll jump in with one. As a followup (and companion piece) to the DL&W 2-8-0, have you considered a DL&W 550 series 2-6-0, as represented by number 565 at Steamtown? Drawings were published in RMC in the late 1950's and republished in Penn Publications' 1959 paperback STEAM LOCOMOTIVE PLAN MANUAL AND ALBUM, edited by Hal Carstens. Penn Publications later became Carstens.
Also, have you ever built, or considered building, one of RDG's highly unusual I-7 2-8-0's?
Trainman440 Wow! Great job! A few questions, what is the brass detail part's name in picture 2? and what is the brass detail part in picture 8, the one on the left? Thanks, just trying to learn some vocab Charles
Wow! Great job!
A few questions, what is the brass detail part's name in picture 2?
and what is the brass detail part in picture 8, the one on the left?
Thanks, just trying to learn some vocab
For picture 2 the brass parts visible are the break cylinders under the cab or the check valves on the boiler (a lot of anthracite roads had both on the engineers side like camelbacks)
For picture 8 the part on the left that kind of looks like a ray gun in front of the cab is the injector lifter that will have plumbing to the check valves mentioned before. This one will not look normal because again being used to camelback (I believe this class is rebuilt camelbacks) it has one lifter pumping to 2 checkvalves, normally there are 2 lifters, or one and a feed water heater. I don't think that would fly today with FRA rules, I believe you need 2 ways to get water into the boiler, but I could be wrong.
With most of the major structure construction done, it was time to fill in some detail. I started with the ash pans which on this engine are tucked in to the rear driver a bit. The prototype would be a sheet bent around the driver but for this in a really hard angle I pretty much left it an open hole. Brass details were added here and there while making other parts.
Somewhat sporadic work over the past couple weeks means I moved around here and there getting little parts done as I had time, so after the ash pans I did some work on the tender starting with the front steps. Not really traditional tender steps I just built them from .010 styrene.
Then I started working on the rear of the tender doing the foot boards and adding a ladder that I think is from an IHC tender.
Then made a water hatch and installed the rear headlight.
Before putting the cab roof on I did some really basic detail making some things to hint as controls and a fire door that was a random show pick up that is too large to use on an engine with 2 fire doors.
The window frames went in at this time too.
After a quick coat of black the roof went on, then the gutters and top vent hatch were added.
Another unique detail to the locomotive is the pilot steps that look like more traditional tender steps. They were assembled then glued to the pilot.
Then some more detail parts were added.
Most cast pieces are on at this point. I plan on doing a little test running before rivets, once those are on I will be moving to final detailing and then paint. So here is where it sits now.
Wow, thats a lot of progress done in 1 month, considering I got nothing finished!
Thanks everyone!
Trainman440 Great work! Love how its turing out! Just curious, how long did this take you to do? Thanks Charles
Great work! Love how its turing out!
Just curious, how long did this take you to do?
Thanks
Looking at the pictures on my computer the first image was taken Sept 20, and I just finished tender shell before posting. So so far a little over a month.
Great work! Love how its turning out!
Wow! You do amazing work. I wish I had your modeling talents. Can't wait to see how it turns out!
looks amazing.
For the past couple weeks I have been working on this project and haven't really had the chance to share it. I have been wanting to spread into the DL&W a bit since I lived in Scranton PA for a while growing up. I found a nice supply of images on line and formulated this project from the parts box.
Here is the prototype DL&W F-18.
Most projects start with the question, what has the correct driver size? With steamlocomotive.com it's easy to figure out the size of the prototype. With parts I had a Mantua 2-8-2 camelback frame that was left over was a pretty good fit. I also had a repower gearbox for it. Then I found some tender trucks and was ready to start!
I started with grinding off the unwanted parts of the cylinders also getting rid of the boiler saddle in anticipation I would be setting the boiler higher, which I ended up not doing.
The cylinders got built up but I didn't redo the heads quite yet. My focus was turned to getting the running gear to work with a walsherts valvegear. The valvegear is from on of the larger Mantua 2-8-2s which has the same driver size to it easily fits. I made the yoke and link hanger and tested the base of the valvegear.
The rest too some thinking using the original crosshead to the frame I added a bottom mount for the rod using .010 brass and super gluing it in place. The top valve slider is 2 small pieces of .040 glued together and drilled on the seam to slide on the guide rod that goes from the yoke to the cylinders.
Once I had the one side set I just had to repeat it. What amazed me was there was a little binding with just one side done and when I got the other side put together is rolled pretty mush perfect, no 2 hours of slightly tweaking rods to get it to work!
Once I knew the running gear would work a boiler was made. This is the first engine that is not a camelback that I have made a boiler on but all the same technique.
Here is the shameless plug for making boilers on my youtube channel.
I then put the rear running board and cab floor in thinking I would make the tender but then decided I wanted the base of the cab in place for height markers.
To get to doing the cab I wanted to get a lot of other things in place first, but started with the smokebox front to give it a face. Done in 4 layers of the base bottom, the first bulge in .040, the base of the door in .010 and then the bulge of the door in .040. After glued together the hinges and latches are placed, then the number board and headlight are placed.
The domes were then placed and puttied, I had also ground off the parts of the pilot that were not needed. I was originally thinking of totally replacing it but decided it was in a good spot and then I did not need to make a couple pocket so I kept the main beam.
After drying over night the putty was sanded.
While letting putty set I went ahead and made a tender frame. It is a .040 base with layers built up in the middle as a center beam for the trucks to sit on. The end beams are rectangle stock styrene.
Before the pilot got in the way I placed the cylinder heads. The bottom head is a .010 base with a piece of .040 sanded to a dome surrounded by .010 squares acting as the bolt heads.
Then the step on the cylinders was added made from .010 and the pilot was filled out, first the top then the footboards as well as the steam pipes to the cylinders.
After .010 strips were added for the boiler bands the compressors were place in preparation for the running board as the running board goes around them. The same was done for the power reverse on the engineer's side.
With the running boards in place the air tanks could be installed which nicely hide the gearbox on the frame.
Now I was finally ready to make the cab. The front and back are .040 and the side walls are .010. I put in some shape holding beams on the top made from .040 to help keep the roof shape and the thin sides strait over time. The roof will stay off a while until I get some basic cab detail and a coat of paint before the permanent roof goes on.
Now that I had my cab for height markers the tender shell was started, all from .040. The main perimeter was made with a friction hold frame on the frame. The coal bunker sides were next then the center was placed starting with the top plates , then the slope sheet.
The sides were sanded round after construction.
Here is where it sits now, a lot done, but a lot to do still.
...and with a caboose I slapped together to go with it.