Don't forget that in addition to mounting new trucks and couplers, often trainset quality cars are under NMRA standards for weight and may need added or replacement weights.
Another solution at least for some cheap house cars (reefers, Boxcars, stock cars) of the right length, is to retrofit the shell onto a Central Valley plastic underframe. But as a rule it is a rare car that cannot be retrofitted using the advice others have provided above.
Dave Nelson
Hi:
This is exactly the information I was looking for.
Thanks to one and all for posting.
All the best!
richhotrain One reason to replace the push pins is in an instance where the trucks are going to be replaced and the push pins will no longer fit, or where a new spot is needed on the piece of rolling stock to secure the truck. Rich
One reason to replace the push pins is in an instance where the trucks are going to be replaced and the push pins will no longer fit, or where a new spot is needed on the piece of rolling stock to secure the truck.
Rich
I replace the push pin truck retainer pins when they allow too much side to side wobble on the trucks. I have gone as big as 6-32 pan head machine screws on some old IHC streamliner cars. The more usual truck screw is a 2-56. You can fill in the push pin holes with bits of sprue, and then drill them out for your choice of truck mounting screw. There is no need to tap plastic to accept machine screws, they will bite into holes in plastic and self thread themselves.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Alton Junction
Trucks on train set cars can often be salvaged by adding new wheelsets from Intermountain, Reboxx, ExactRail, Kadee, etc. It's usually cheaper and easier that replacing the trucks, and the end result may operate just as well.
Rob Spangler
I have replaced the push pin truck holders on passenger cars from IHC and Con Cor with 2-56 screws. But, first I filled the push pin hole with 2-part epoxy, then I use a Kadee tap and die set to prepare a new spot for the 2-56 screw.
Here we have a Bachmann trainset hopper car.
It has a home made coal load. A coat of Dullcote to kill the trainset gloss. Bodymount Kadee couplers. Plain old trainset trucks, rattle can spray painted with Rustoleum red auto primer. Plain old plastic trainset wheels with the wheel faces brush painted grimy black. I could have replaced the stirrups with thinner brass ones, and replaced the molded on grab irons and ladders with wire ones, but I didn't.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
You can gently pry the plastic pin out of the hole but they easily break. I replace broken plastic pins with a 6/32" machine screw that I cut to the proper length with a pair of wire strippers/crimpers that include treaded bolt cutters.
To body mount couplers I use a piece of Evergreen 0.040” sheet styrene cut the size of a Kadee #5 coupler pocket. I glue the styrene to the underside of the car where I want to mount the coupler then I glue the assembled #5 coupler onto the mounting I created. The styrene mount should make the coupler the correct height. If not use a different thickness.
I hope this helps.
A 2-56 screw will replace most truck pins. Something close will do the rest, you just want one whose outside diamter over the threads is slightly larger than the truck pin's hole.
Most conversions to Kadee couplers are drop in if the coupler box is body-mounted. Kadee's website has multiple charts of what best fits what, but a #5 works for probably 75%.
If you're dealing with truck-mounted Talgo couplers, then they can be snipped off. The draft gear/coupler boxes that Kadee supplies work well to install on the underframe instead. The main thing is mounting at the correct height, which the Kadee gauge helps sort out and is highly recommended. It shows not only coupler height at one end, but also shows the mounting surface height for the draft gear on the other.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Hi
I have tried the various search engines to see if there are videos on how to change the trucks and couplers on any of the cheap pieces of rolling stock.
The versions I am referencing have the trucks typically held in place by a what seems to be a push in plastic pin of some sort.
I normally wouldn't go to the trouble with so many quality newer options available and even the Athern blue boxes, but occasionally I find a road name or service car that interests me.
Any suggestions on how you have accomplished this.
Thank You