How Much Micro Sol to Use on Decal

[AntonioFP45]

I've been using Microset and Microsol for over 2 decades with no problems as the majority of my decal work has been with Microscale decals and decals produced by historical societies, which are on the ultra thin side. 

Like the spray can product "Dullcote", I rarely use my bottle of Solvaset. I respect those that disagree, but Solvaset was designed decades ago when decals were generally thicker (like Champ and Herald King) and a relatively strong solution was needed for those decals to conform to surfaces. I save my Solvaset for those types of applications. As long as one is extremely careful, Solvaset can be used on Microscale and other thin decals, however, it can be a game of Russian Roulette.

To those modelers metalizing their equipment with Alclad2, ALSA, and SPAZ STIX......PLEASE DO NOT use Solvaset to apply decals on top of those finishes unless they have been sealed with at least 2 coats of a hard clear that's FULLY cured. For decal applications on those metalized finishes, Microset and Microsol are safe and reliable.

High Greens

[dstarr]

I never use Micro-Sol.  I have been using SolvaSet for 50 years with good results.  Solvaset is mostly formaldehyde which softens the decal film allowing capillary action to suck the softened film down around lumps and bumps in the surface, such as rivets and other details. 

   You gotta make sure the decal is in just the right location, and is dry enough not to float away.  Once the SolvaSet goes to work softening the film, any attempt to relocate the decal will tear it.  Use just enough Solvaset to moisten the whole decal.  The stuff works thru the surface of the decal film and it sucks under around the edges.  Too much Solvaset and the whole decal will loosen from the surface and float away. 

  Let the decal dry thoughly, at least overnight, a couple of days is better, before DullCoteing the decal. 

[cedarwoodron]

On a gloss or semi gloss surface, I put a small swipe of Solvaset on while my decal is softening in distilled water. Then I place the loosened decal on a paper towel to remove excess moisture (15 seconds max) before placing it in its location on the model. I use a tweezer to hold the decal paper (away from the decal itself) then use a toothpick with my other hand to aid in sliding the decal onto the surface. After positioning properly, I gently blot the decal (just touching a corner of the paper towel to wick up surface moisture) and if, needed, use just a touch of additional Solvaset with a very small paintbrush if needed to allow the decal to settle over irregular features.

Cedarwoodron

[BroadwayLion]

OOO... LION has not done a decal in more than 55 years. It did not tern out well, and him not tried it since.

Ewe do not even want to know how the LION does it now a days...

Oh, well, this car and all of my other oler pax cars are scheduled to be incorporated into a static display representing Penn Station. Very vew people will actually notice it unless I point it out to them.

 

ROAR

[RR_Mel]

charlie9

The single greatest improvement I made in my decal application procedures was to start using distilled water.  The local tap water would kill fish.  It left a film around the decal that is not there with distilled water.  I still use the micro-set and micro-sol when needed.

Charlie

 

Charlie is correct about the water, if you have high turbidity water (cloudiness or haziness) you definitely need to use distilled water

 

For 20 years we lived in an area where we almost had to wear a hardhat to take a shower because of the super hard water.  It was essential to use distilled water to apply decals.

 

Mel

 

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[charlie9]

The single greatest improvement I made in my decal application procedures was to start using distilled water.  The local tap water would kill fish.  It left a film around the decal that is not there with distilled water.  I still use the micro-set and micro-sol when needed.

Charlie

[hon30critter]

I think I'm in the same boat as Dan.

After letting the decal dry I apply reasonably liberal amounts of MicroSol. I will do that two or three times, letting each application dry before applying the next one, until I am satisfied that the decal is totally conformed to the surface. If there are air pockets they usually show after the first application, and I will give them a poke with the tip of a new #11 blade to allow the air out when the next application of MicroSol is done. The next step, once the decals are dry, is to clear coat, or in the case of rivet decals, to apply a layer of primer.

I will share a couple of things that I have learned in my relatively short decaling career.

First, the only thing I use to apply the decal is water. In the past I applied MicroSet to the surface first, but I think that softens the decal too much before it can be manouvered into place resulting in messed up decals.

Second, I use cold water to soak the decals. It takes longer for the glue to dissolve, but the decal films are much stronger than when warm water is used. I recently applied about 40 lengths of rivet decals to my McKeen motor car and they went on with virtually no hitches. I lost maybe about an inch of rivet strip in the whole application. Previously, when I was working with the thin rivet strips, and was following the instructions to use warm water, the strips broke apart constantly.

Anyhow, there's my worth. Like I said, I'm no expert. I'm only telling you what worked for me.

Regards

Dave

[stokesda]

I may be doing it totally wrong, but once the decal is initially dry I usually slop on a bunch of Micro Sol all over the decal and around the edges. I try to do this quickly and brush over each part only once to avoid damaging the decal. The excess will evaporate after several minutes. If it's still not snug enough to my liking, I'll repeat as necessary. So far I haven't had any application problems, but the evaporating solution sometimes leaves a brownish "tub ring" behind that I have to make sure to wipe off with a wet Q-tip before sealing with Dullcote.

[RR_Mel]

I use Micro Set to prep the surface before applying the decal then after it is completely dry I use a thin coat of Solvaset to get the decal to conform to curves and rough areas (rivets & seams).

 

I find that Solvaset pulls the decal tighter to the surface than Micro Sol.

 

Mel

 

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[crhostler61]

I use both Micro Sol and Micro Set, but rarely on the same decal...hmmm. Typically when I apply a decal it'll be immediately after it releases from the paper so there is still decal glue during application. After placement, I'll allow the decal to dry. Then I'll use either of the decal solvents, dip a small brush into it, then touch a corner or two of the decal with a solvent drop and allow capillary action to make it flow under the decal. I'll allow that to dry then apply more solvent around the entire edge of the decal, and allowing the same capillary action. Unless I have a stubborn decal...I'll stop there, let things dry completely, then apply a clear coat.

I've had very good results the way I describe and I don't need to use any large amount of the stuff. I like Micro Sol more so because it smells friendlier (acetic acid) than Micro Set. 

Mark H

[josephbw]

I used to use a small paintbrush and just put enough on to cover the decal. It works better to use a natural bristle brush.

 

Joe

[KisNap]

Hi,

I'm adding decals to my trains now and just wondered how much Micro Sol people use when applying to their decal after using Micro Set. I've seen some places say to use a liberal amount and then I saw one guy who dipped a Q-tip in it, squeezed out as much as he could, ran it quickly over the decal, and then used the dry end of the Q-tip to quickly wipe it away.

So the question is, do you use a liberal amount ensuring the entire decal has a thick layer on it, do you apply it liberally and then soak it up so you have a smaller amount on it, or do you use a very tiny bit and soak it up like the Q-tip guy?

So far I've been using the liberal amount and with pretty good results, but if there's a better way I'm up to trying it. Thanks!