Help! Proto2000 GP-18's short out at the couplers

[Anonymous]

I have some new first run P2K low nose GP-18 engines I was test running and i noticed that when i have them coupled (with Kadee metal couplers) together rear end to rear end it causes intermittant shorts and tyhey ran with hesitation and I saw sparks coming from the rear couplers. When I connect them with both cabs facing forward they run fine.

I touched the couplers after seeing the sparks and they were very hot to touch and would probably have melted the plastic coupler retainer if I continued to try to run them.

I could put the Accumates on them, but want the reliability of Kadees.

Is this a known problem with the first series of GP18's??

[Anonymous]

This is a known problem with any athearn-style frame. The solution is plastic-shank couplers. Kadee does indeed make plastic-shank couplers, check their website for details (IIRC it's the 20 and 30 series)

[Anonymous]

It's a problem with lots of locos which use a live frame and have metal couplers - as suggested above, if you change them to the Kadee #28 this will solve the problem (assuming you're using Kadee #5s at the moment). The #38 would also work - the only difference between these is the supplied coupler boxes, and I'm guessing you're using the original Proto 2k boxes and springs so this won't be a problem.

[Anonymous]

Hmmm,

I have run athearn engines with Kadee #5's for 20 years without ever having these types of problems before. I was thinking of making a paper or card stock coupler pocket template and inserting it under the coupler isolating it from the frame mount, since the retainer and pin that holds the coupler in place is acetyl plastic.

That or I may just mount them to the shell itself.

[cspmo]

Have you try a plastic screw that comes with KD? Proto uses plastic coupler pocket so no electricity will not be going through it, so it must be the screw.

If the coupler is in it's pocket it should be insulated. If it's against the frame then there might be a problem.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cspmo

Have you try a plastic screw that comes with KD? Proto uses plastic coupler pocket so no electricity will not be going through it, so it must be the screw.

If the coupler is in it's pocket it should be insulated. If it's against the frame then there might be a problem.

Actually...P2K first run engines had frames almost identical to old Athearns and the couplers mounted to a tab molded into the frame. You simply place a cover over the top of the tab that hold the coupler on, however it appears that something is different with the way these P2K units are wired...apparently (unlike Athearn's) you cannot connect two locos back to back if they have metal couplers.

I must say that I am VERY impressed with Life-Likes customer service.

Last friday i noticed the axle gears on both my GP-18's were cracked and caused it to make a bumping noise going down the tracks. I called Customer service Friday and the young lady knew exactly what I needed without asking for even a part #! She sent me two sets of complete axel gears and new nickel silver wheelsets to replace the brass ones. I recieved the parts on Monday !!!!

[Anonymous]

Boy am I glad to see someone else had this problem! Well, not glad but glad, you know what I mean? I have two F-7s I set up with Kadee #5s and they do the same sparking, intermittent runnning that minuteman had with P2Ks. This forum is going to be a great help in a lot of ways. Thanks for the information even though it wasn't me asking for the help!

[retsignalmtr]

i have used the kaydee #5's on my athern engines with the plastic kadee coupler boxes held in place with a kaydee plastic 2-56 screw. the only problem is that the #5 coupler comes out a little low with the height gauge. you could use the #27 coupler that has a higher knuckle.

[mcouvillion]

Since the frame of the Athearn engine carries the power from the left rail to the bottom of the motor, the metal #5 Kadees in the metal coupler poskets are polarized the same. When running "elephant style", the chassis of each engine is the same polarity - "No problems, Mate!". But when you flip one engine around, nose to nose or back to back, now you have one chassis positive and the other negative, and the coupler is the direct short. Its not going to run. By installing the Delrin - shanked Kadee couplers (I think it is #38, same size as #5 but the shank is an insulating plastic) you will never have the direct short and never have a problem hooking up your engines any way you want. Just make installing a #38 coupler in both pockets of every engine standard practice and your problem is forever solved. Use the #5s from your engines in other rolling stock.

Mark C.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by retsignalmtr

i have used the kaydee #5's on my athern engines with the plastic kadee coupler boxes held in place with a kaydee plastic 2-56 screw. the only problem is that the #5 coupler comes out a little low with the height gauge. you could use the #27 coupler that has a higher knuckle.

I am going to try a card stock shim first and see how that works...if not i will install the plastic sprung couplers. I really want the pulling strength of metal as I plan on having at least 4-5 engines coupled and pulling 30-50 cars.