A couple of coats of rattle can dark gray auto primer makes a good looking canvas covered roof. The primer dries dead flat which looks like tarred canvas in HO.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hello All,
On the NMRA website there is an article talking about the use of teabags for scale tarps.
Here's the link: http://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/sr201404_tea_bag.pdf
You could make larger tarps by gluing several teabags together.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Hi again Otto:
No need to be sorry - scale is really just a minor detail.
It sounds to me like you want to see some texture on the roof. In fact, in HO scale, the fabric pattern would not be visible. After all it is hardly visible in 1:1 scale at any distance, but that doesn't mean you can't texture your surfaces. I firmly believe that a bit of texture adds greatly to the appearance of HO models even if it is out of scale. In other words, modeling a bunch of smooth surfaces just because the texture wouldn't show in HO is BORING!
So, I would follow the suggestions already offered to use silk or model airplane tissue to get the result you want. And please show us your results!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I'm sorry it is in HO.
Monokote - still available also. http://www.monokote.com/
Hmm, there may be some model railroad uses for this stuff too...
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
farrellaaI thought it was called silkspan.
That's it!
Things like monocot (SP?) and other plastic covering material came along that we would shrink with a heat gun. But Silkspan sure made an old prototype models look real. I think it is something that could be put to good use in some of our applications.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
rrinkerI sort of recall that there were two kinds of dope, regular and fuel proof -regular being fine for a static model or rubber band powered one, but if you had one that had a motor you needed the fuel proof type so the nitro and castor oil wouldn;t eat through it
How true Randy, I learned the hard way. It would disolve the paint/dope if is wasn't fuelproof. I finally used clear fuel proof dope to cover my model after repainting it!
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
BATMANNow if only I can remember what it was called.
I still have a small sheet of it (40+years old now!) and I thought it was called silkspan. I even have the old planes hanging in my train room! (see photo, upper left)
It was called just that - Tissue. Still available, people still build models like that. When sealed with dope, it replicates early fabric covered aircraft both is looks and it also works an an aerodynamic surface for an actual flying model. I sort of recall that there were two kinds of dope, regular and fuel proof -regular being fine for a static model or rubber band powered one, but if you had one that had a motor you needed the fuel proof type so the nitro and castor oil wouldn;t eat through it
Way back in another lifetime, we used a heavy tissue on our R/C airplanes. It was/is available in many thicknesses. I think it would give you just the look you are looking for. It is very strong and does not come apart when wet. In fact we would paint the stuff with fuel proof dope and that would seat it nicely over whatever it was going on, like the ribs of a wing. Now if only I can remember what it was called.
I have used toilet paper or cleansing tissue ("Kleenex") with good results. It's not as thick as paper towels. The better brands have a discernible weave, which may be visible on the model, but would not be visible on a prototype roof when viewed from a comparable distance. The cheaper stuff doesn't show this fine weave, so I use that. Way back in the Dark Ages, I started using this method using 410-M paints, which haven't been available for 40 or 50 years. Then I switched to Floquil.
I brush black paint (or Grimy Black, or whatever seems appropriate) on the roof. Not too thin. Then press an oversized piece of T.P. into the paint, letting the paint seep through. Hold it there for a few minutes. Press it down firmly to get as much paint into the T.P. as possible. It will start to set up pretty quickly and you can set it aside for a few minutes. Before it sets up completely, apply a bit more paint on top to cover any places where the paint hasn't seeped into the T.P. from the roof surface. Smooth it down. Set it aside to cure. Then trim any overhanging edges with an X-Acto.
Works for me, but I always end up with paint on my fingers because I've never found a better tool for this purpose than good ol' reliable digits.
Tom
Hi Otto:
What scale?
Hello all , I plan on building an open air observation car and was wandering what kind of material to use to represent a canvas type material for the roof?.I've thought about tissue paper but I would like something a little thicker (I know that painting white glue on the tissue paper makes it stiff,but would like to have the texture or look of canvas).I have even thought about using an old type passenger car roof ( how do you think that will look?). any other suggestions will be helpful. Thanks Otto