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Coloring recessed brick

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  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Utica, OH
  • 4,000 posts
Posted by jecorbett on Friday, August 21, 2015 9:20 AM

I hate brush painting so when I have a wall that needs two different colors I'll paint the wall with the lighter color first, allow it to dry thoroughly, then mask it and spray the darker color. Normally masking is a pain but if it is the structure I am thinking of, the concrete areas have long straight edges which should make the masking much easier. When spraying the brick I would try to keep the sprayer as perpendicular as possible to reduce the overspray on the side edges of the concrete. Normally after pulling off the masking I will discover a few places where the were leaks so be prepared to scrape off the unwanted color and then touching up.

It would make things a lot easier if kits were made so that parts that need different colors aren't molded onto the same piece. I hate kits with the concrete sills molded to the brick wall but that is the most common way it is done.

UPDATE: After seeing the link to the kit I realize it is not the one I thought it was. I had it confused with the Geo. Roberts printing kit which is mostly straight lines. The kit you are referring to is a little more ornate. I have assembled both. The kit you are working with has fairly small brick fields so as much as I disliked doing it, I believe I hand painted the brick. That seemed to be the lesser of two evils and took far less time than masking off all that concrete.

  • Member since
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  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 470 posts
Posted by ctyclsscs on Thursday, August 20, 2015 10:21 AM

One other thought, which is something I am going to try one of these days. Since most of the brick panels are retangular (except a few up top), you could also try cutting and covering the brick areas with printed brick paper. I think it would relatively easy to measure the size of each panel and then cut a matching piece of brick paper that could be glued in after the building was sprayed gray. Just a thought. Only a few sections could be tricky, but if you experimented and made a template out of heavy paper, you could use that to cut the brick paper rather than having to re-cut the brick paper and wasting it.

Jim

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    January 2010
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Posted by peahrens on Thursday, August 20, 2015 9:56 AM

Here's the building so we can see what it looks like (unkitbashed):

 

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3097

 

People use different painting methods with success so you may have several options.  I've built mostly Walthers Cornerstone structures and my approach is to wash, lightly spray prime, then paint by brush with hobby store $1 acrylics.  Many buildings are brick with framed windows and concrete window sills, etc, and I just hand paint those with reasonable success.  It does take awhile.  I usually paint the window frames, then the brick (usually darker in color) then any required touchup to the window frames (and then any touchup required to the brick...LOL).  Anyhow, I'd probably just paint by hand, though the brick / concrete may dictate which color to paint first.  I would probably primer with a light gray (close to concrete). I would not spray the whole piece brick color as that would make coverage with the concrete color difficult.  I would consider spray painting the whole piece concrete color (if you can find an acceptable one) and then hand paint the brick, then touch up as needed.  I would not mask all these areas, as that would be difficult and as tedious as hand painting IMO. 

 

I usually weather my structures somewhat with grayish and blackish washes.  This causes the black (dirt) color to accumulate in crack / crevices a bit, which somewhat blurs any imperfect color interfaces at window frames, etc.

 

Lets us know how you tackle it and how it turns out (hint: a photo would be cool).

 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

  • Member since
    May 2011
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Posted by Steven S on Thursday, August 20, 2015 9:55 AM

RR_Mel
I haven’t tried this product but the reviews are good. http://migration.getbobschwab.com/products.html

 

Save your money.  Go to the hardware store and buy a small tub of premixed joint compound.  You get 7 times as much for 1/4th the price.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sheetrock-All-Purpose-1-75-Pt-Pre-Mixed-Joint-Compound-380270/202329639

Steve S

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • 743 posts
Posted by Steven S on Thursday, August 20, 2015 9:48 AM

You could use a spray enamel for the concrete, then brush on water-based craft paint for the brick.  If you do get any brick paint where you don't want it, it should wipe off without affecting the underlying concrete color.

Steve S

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Thursday, August 20, 2015 9:31 AM

OK, sorry, Coffee still kicking in.

Best thing is to mask off the surrounding area and brush or spray the brick area. Let it fully dry, then mask that and paint the concrete. Or vice versa, because it's usually better to paint light colors (concrete) first, then the darker bricks. Hard to say which is better without seeing exactly what you have.

The key is getting the masking right. Laying tape on glass, then cutting to size to apply to the intervening columns, will make masking easier, especially if needed to do multiples.

If you're good with a brush, maybe spray the concrete, then use the brush to paint the bricks. If the concrete is typical spray paint and is dry, you can use a water based acrylic and a brush without masking. Then if it gets where it shouldn't be, the brick color can be wiped off so long as you do it quickly before it dries.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 297 posts
Posted by markie97 on Thursday, August 20, 2015 9:18 AM

Thanks guys. But I think you miss my point. I am trying to find a relatively easy way to color a recessed brick area bordered by concrete beams and columns, without getting the brick color onto the beams and columns. I am not trying to create mortar lines.

  • Member since
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  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
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Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:49 AM

I haven’t tried this product but the reviews are good.
 
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
  • Member since
    September 2003
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Posted by mlehman on Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:04 AM

Mark,

There are products out there that you wipe on, then wipe off leaving "mortar" in between.

I have a jar of Scale Works Models Modeler's Mortar in Weathered White I've used for 20+ years. Gotta add a little water now and then, but still works well. I dip a finger in it (gloves are good, but not necessary for little dabs like you need) and wipe it where it needs to go, then take a paper towel to wipe off. I paint the bricks, etc first, then apply.

It is very controllable for spots like you have. This stuff is made by several folks, not sure if SWM is still around or not.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 297 posts
Coloring recessed brick
Posted by markie97 on Thursday, August 20, 2015 6:25 AM

Hello;

I've started a kitbash of the Walthers American Hardware building and am wondering the best way to paint the brick that is recessed to and bordered by the concrete columns and beams. I'm thinking spray paint the concrete color first then using colored pencils to color the brick. The brick is in relatively small areas bordered by the concrete. I am too afraid about getting brick colores paint onto the concrete.

Any thoughts or experience on this?

Thank you in advance,

Mark

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