One word..........GOO! Using ACC or epoxy works fine, but has no forgiveness. Goo has been around the hobby for over 6 decades and has uses for just about everything. I have built several resin kits including over 100 Sunshine reefers. I tried just about everything, but like in days of yore, I went back to Goo.
With simple practice, this seemingly impossible substance can be controlled and thinned (lacquer thinner or Dio Sol) and appled either full strength or thinned with a simple applicator such as a tooth pick or directly from tube.
When assembling an expensive and complex rolling stock kit or structure, flexibility is nice, as you can still separate or realign surfaces for at least 12 hours. Then even after glue has permantely set, still you can realign, but more care is required.
Note: my entire layout and roster is built with only three glues.....Hot epoxy, Elmers' white and yellow, and Goo. All rolling stock, be it wood or resin is all Goo'ed.
Bottom line.....every artisan has their own preference of mediums, and although I know that ACC works well, I rarely use it....just my choice!
HZ
Thanks for the quick replies I have a bottle of gorilla glue on hand I'll be sure to trim and clean all the parts before assembly
When I work with resin, (which I do a lot making large scale figures) I use a combination of thin 2 part epoxy and and a dot or 2 of gel CA. The CA holds everything in place while the epoxy sets.
I use super glue (CA). However last night a strange thing happened. I opened a new bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. It was still in the sealed package. When I tried to use it, I could not get any out of the bottle. Upon close inspection I discovered the bottle was empty. I doubt it evaporated. The bottle is clean. Looks like by some glitch the bottle was never filled. Anyone else have this problem?
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
You should wash all resin parts with Dawn or any other degreasing detergent to get rid of any mold release. I also use DX-440 to get rid of mold release.
As far as gluing resin parts, epoxies are just another form of resin so make for a very good adhesive for resin parts. The only drawback is the 5 minute or more curing time. For quicker bonding you can use a good quality CA. I would suggfest medium gap-filling version like Zap-A-Gap, Paul Smith Industries (purple metalic label) or Gorilla Super Glue. This is a little thicker than regular super glue and give about 15-30 seconds to position the parts. It can be accelerated with Zip Kicker or similar.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
What type of glue would be the best for gluing resin parts together? And do you need to prep the resin before gluing?