I highly recommend another animal-named glue - Rhino. It's a great all-purpose adhesive; I glued the rear window into my convertible two years ago and it's still weatherproof. And I've used it many times on my layout, even on plastic models, though it's not usually the first choice for that.
Sean
HO Scale CSX Modeler
modelmaker51 I have been using Gorilla Super Glue for about six months now and find it works just as good as Zap A Gap and has about the same consistency. I like the bottle cap, it's large and easy to grip and seals and unseals well.
I have been using Gorilla Super Glue for about six months now and find it works just as good as Zap A Gap and has about the same consistency. I like the bottle cap, it's large and easy to grip and seals and unseals well.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
As with others, I use it all the time. For plastic to plastic bonds, there are better choices, like a Faller version or others. For plastic to metal bonds, I find this glue is my choice. I like it because it does not act like traditional CA glues. For about 10-15 sec you can make adjustments. I have shown that it takes considerable force to break the bond once it has set. I have never seen any problem with the plastic.
So many trains, so little time,
Larry
www.llxlocomotives.com
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I just used Gorilla Glue (the type you wet one surface with water) to join a hardboard deck to plastic Peco plate girders for a bridge. Clamped the joints as it dried and it worked brilliantly.
Mike
The Gorilla Super glue is advertised as formulated with rubber particles to increase its ability to better withstand stress. I've used it on models and while it didn't appear to have any adverse effects I didn't observe that it was superior to other type of CA.
Joe
I have a bottle of Gorilla Glue CA type. It is the size of a bottle of eye drops. I have used it on all sorts of stuff including rolling stock buildings etc etc. I have not noticed any ill effects on my models, but I try to make any glue joints in non visible areas. I also keep it well away from the medicine cabinet.
Ok,
My apologies on the mix up. I was also referring to the original, expanding, great on wood, lousy on detail work, Gorilla glue. (The kind that needed a "wet" surface to bond properly....) I was unaware they came out with a different formula.
And, for the original, expanding formula, I stick by the do not recommend on models. (Bench-work however..... That might actually work good. It worked great on countertops....)
Unknown new formula, so I will reserve judgement on it.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Thanks Frank
I just ordered a couple of bottles of Zap-A-Gap Medium to give it a try. I haven't looked for it in the local stores but Amazon's shipping was cheap and I don't have to waste my time driving around all day to find it. I'm curious to see if it is stronger than the Gorilla Super Glue.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Call me frugal, but I prefer to get my various CA glues at Walmart- the Loctite brand- their gel CA is a slow set formula with side squeezes to help get the product out of the nozzle, and they are cheaper than hobby store items, but work equally well.
Cedarwoodron
hon30critter Frank Can I ask what CA you use? Thanks Dave
Frank
Can I ask what CA you use?
Thanks
Dave,
Mentioned this before......Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+, on all the Models. Plastruct Plastic Weld and Ambroid Pro-Weld,( the original formula), bought a case of it, 4yrs. ago, on all styrene buildings and G-S Hypo cement on all windows, acetate, glass and styrene. I have this habit of buying things by the case, since owning My own trucking business. Also have this habit of sticking with what works for me. Just started on My second 0.5 oz container of Zap since Jan. the first was completely empty and did not have any problem's with the cap coming off.... I learned to wipe the tip of the nozzle with a paper towel before snapping the little cap on, then snap the larger cap on. If the very tip clogs from dried CA, I use my 1/32 drill bit, pin vise set-up to drill the hole out, pins don't do a good job, I also keep the tip conical, by sanding occasionally with 80 grit air file paper, a lot thicker paper than regular sand paper. I used that a lot for body work, so I also have boxes of that, which is turning out to be a lifetime supply for Me since I don't do body work any more. LOL. Keeping the tip conical makes it seal better with cap on, cause the inside of the cap is conical and I never use it right from the container. I put a little in a medicine measuring cup and usually have up to an hour to use whats in the cup, before it will lose it's capillary attraction qualities, it will start to thicken.
Take Care!
Polyethylene is a flexible slippery plastic that was used for the insulation in TV twinlead and is still used as insulation in coaxial TV cable. I never heard of any adhesive that would stick to polyethylene. Poly propylene is less common but about the same as poly ethylene. I cannot think of anything on a model railroad made from either. The Gorilla Glue that I am familiar with comes in largish (4 oz?) cans, is a polyurethane glue, thick and brown. I don't use it much, if at all. If the Gorilla Glue people have released their own version of superglue, I missed the product announcement. Kudo's to the Gorilla Glue marketing dept. I would assume that the Gorilla super glue works about like everyone else's superglue.
I use CA for pot metal (zamak) joints (pot metal won't solder), and metal to wood or plastic. For plastic to plastic, say putting a plastic kit together, I use the liquid plastic welder products. Clear thin liquids come in small (1 oz) bottles with a brush in the cap.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
If this stuff is plain ol' cyanoacrylic (or however you spell it) like other super glues, should be OK for models. Several folks in reveiws even said they used it for work on miniatures. Several others clearly had never used CA before...
If it's that, should be pretty comparable to other CAs.
Regular Gorilla Glue can be difficult for models. It does provide a great bond, especially on wood. However, you need to be able to clamp the joints you make with it, because it tends to expand as it cures. This will throw things out of whack for close, accurate work in many cases.
I use a lot of gap-filling CA, mainly because I like to work fast, which you get once you add a spritz of catalyst/kicker. I've been using Great Planes Pro CA with good performance and shelf life. The other day, I picked up a bottle of Zap Slo-Zap, because the LHS was out of the other. The owner says Zap is what he uses and it is good, although around +$4 over the same 2oz of Great Planes' stuff. It's good stuff, too, although I'm not sure $4 better than GP.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Google...Gorilla Super Glue Reviews and make Your decision.
I personally don't care for it and don't trust the bond. I build many white metal, pewter and Polyurethane resin kits, Brass, wood, music wire, for some of My clients and none have complained about parts or any problem's yet with the CA I use, on some of the reviews, people said, parts fall apart overtime.
Hi Blaine
I have to politely disagree with Ricky W. I wonder if he is referring to the original Gorilla Glue which is totally different stuff.
Your plastic model trains are usually made out of polystyrene or resin and the Gorilla Super Glue will work fine. I use it all the time. The only problem it might cause is that it will fog up clear styrene windows, but any CA will do the same thing.
Polystyrene is fairly rigid. Polyethylene and polypropylene are more flexible and they have a slick surface. They are used to make things like 'nylon' rope and garbage cans, and kids' toys.
If you are in doubt do a little test. Put a dot of the glue on the inside or bottom of the model where it won't be seen and let it dry. If you have polystyrene or resin the glue will be difficult to remove. If you have polyethylene or polypropylene the glue will pop off fairly easily.
I believe that some older locomotive shells were made with something like ABS. The Gorilla glue will work on those too.
I have used Gorilla glue once, and noticed that it sets via chemical reaction. I would not recommend the use of it on any model, as I really do not know what this reaction will do to our plastic models. (Also, most likely why the manufacturer posts this warning on label.)
So no, do not use on plastic models.
When I bought this glue. I was intending to use it both for items around the house that needed repair, as well as for using on my models. Seemed like a good buy, 24 gr. for the same price as LePage's 4ml. Super Glue. (1 gr. = 1ml.)When I got home, I noticed that Gorilla does not recommend it for use on polyethylene or polypropylene.Does this mean that I shouldn’t use it on my models?
Blaine's
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