Spline or Foam Construction

[CP5415]

I've incorporated both styles on my layout.
As with Fergie's response, I've used foam for flat lands & splines for inclines.
This allowed me to have as gentle a grade wanted or as steep a grade needed for my layout while being flat inbetween.

Gordon

[PistolPete]

I recently started a new layout, after almost 20 years out of model railroading. At first I was going with spline but switched to foam mainly because it allows me to change my track plan with out tearing up all the spline work. Of course if I was more into mountains and large evelation changes I would have gone with the spline. It is a matter of choice and layout plans.

[Fergmiester]

I have used both spline and foam. Both have there places, foam for the flat lands and spline for grades. If I was told I could use one or the other but not both I would go with spline as it will give you gentle transitions on all planes and if done properly is solid and very strong. However it is expensive unless you have cheap source of wood. I was lucky as there is a mill in the area that sells its ends for $5 a bundle, which is 1' x 6" x 8' of various thickness's.

Fergie

[andrechapelon]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

Neither is "better", as they each have their own applications. However, I much prefer foam, since when used properly, construction is faster, cheaper, and easier than when using traditional construction methods. My construction techniques differ from Bill's only slightly, in that I'm using metal shelf brackets instead of wood, use wood glue instead of Liquid Nails, and have an underlayment of 1/4" Lauan plywood under the 2" base of foam, which helps deaden the foam's drum effect even more than using caulk adhesive.

One thing to keep in mind: you don't need Homabed between the track and foam base when handlaying. Bill handlays lots of his own track (the rest is mostly Micro Engineering), and he lays it directly onto the ties glued to the cork/foam roadbed. Give it a try; construction will be MUCH faster and cheaper, and you won't have to worry about the homasote warping in humid conditions.

Are you running the shelf brackets off a stud wall? The reason I ask is that I have a concrete basement and have been trying to figure out how to avoid open grid or L girder construction since wood has gotten so expensive. So far the best idea I have come up with is to drop studs down from the floor joists to the basement floor to provide an anchor point for support brackets. However, this would make installing a drop ceiling somewhat more problematic as any ceiling would have to have cutouts for the studs. OTOH, I'm not fully convinced that a drop ceiling is all that necessary, especially since I have hot water heating and am really reluctant to do anything that makes access to piping more difficult. Unfortunately, the most useable part of the basement is also the part where both the heating pipes and water supplies to the kitchen and bathrooms run.

In my case, the advantage of L girder or open grid benchwork is that it can be free standing rather than anchored to one or more walls. The basement is laid out such that a simple around the walls arrangement is not really feasible, otherwise I'd go for foam on brackets in a minute. I suppose a combination of L girder and foam on brackets may be the best way to go. It's a moot question at this point, anyhow, since I haven't decided what kind of operation I want to emphasize and the operational factors are largely going to determine how the benchwork will be constructed and what the overall configuration will be.

Andre

[orsonroy]

Neither is "better", as they each have their own applications. However, I much prefer foam, since when used properly, construction is faster, cheaper, and easier than when using traditional construction methods. My construction techniques differ from Bill's only slightly, in that I'm using metal shelf brackets instead of wood, use wood glue instead of Liquid Nails, and have an underlayment of 1/4" Lauan plywood under the 2" base of foam, which helps deaden the foam's drum effect even more than using caulk adhesive.

One thing to keep in mind: you don't need Homabed between the track and foam base when handlaying. Bill handlays lots of his own track (the rest is mostly Micro Engineering), and he lays it directly onto the ties glued to the cork/foam roadbed. Give it a try; construction will be MUCH faster and cheaper, and you won't have to worry about the homasote warping in humid conditions.

[ericboone]

I am in the planing process for a multi-decked layout and have been debating using the blueboard foam construction as described by Bill Darnaby in various articles in MR or a spline roadbed construction. I will be hand laying track, so in either case homasote roadbed will be used. What do you think?