BMMECNYC Dave, Which 2-8-0 are you talking about, the new one or the PRR one? Andrew The PRR version, love the look of the shorter tender.
Dave,
Which 2-8-0 are you talking about, the new one or the PRR one?
Andrew
The PRR version, love the look of the shorter tender.
I'm going to try that. Thanks Dave!
Joe C
Joe,
Have you tried adding some weight? The plastic tenders are too light if no weight is added plus they have a tendency sometimes to rocking back and forth causing it to lose power.
Dave
doctorwayne CAZEPHYR ....The tender is dead weight to a steam model and the die cast metal shell tenders add a lot of weight..... I have to disagree: while a heavy tender may reduce train length by a car or two, the trade-off is more reliable current collection through the tender trucks, and, if your trains are particularly heavy, better tracking of the tender, especially on curves. I'm not at all a fan of traction tires, and their use also removes those drivers from the electrical portion of operation. Wayne
CAZEPHYR ....The tender is dead weight to a steam model and the die cast metal shell tenders add a lot of weight.....
I have to disagree: while a heavy tender may reduce train length by a car or two, the trade-off is more reliable current collection through the tender trucks, and, if your trains are particularly heavy, better tracking of the tender, especially on curves. I'm not at all a fan of traction tires, and their use also removes those drivers from the electrical portion of operation.
Wayne
Thanks
Joe:
You got me there. Touche.
Tom (ACY)
dominic c....The DR is in!
Most folks don't bother to condense it, so it's usually "The doctor is insane."
doctorwayneI have to disagree: while a heavy tender may reduce train length by a car or two, the trade-off is more reliable current collection through the tender trucks, and, if your trains are particularly heavy, better tracking of the tender, especially on curves. I'm not at all a fan of traction tires, and their use also removes those drivers from the electrical portion of operation.
The DR is in!
Hey Tom (or is it ACY?)
Your Excused LOL
Joe C (or Dominic)
Thank you Frank, just what I needed to know.
David Fortney,
Click on link: There are other's also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soBAkNV2NKc
Take Care!
Frank
CAZEPHYR....The tender is dead weight to a steam model and the die cast metal shell tenders add a lot of weight.....
Joe (or is it Dominic?):
The "Lines West" vs. "Lines East" question came up, so I thought it might be nice to provide a clarification. Along the way, I thought I might as well give a bit more information as well because those who wish to buy the loco just might have an interest in using it in a way that resembles prototypical practice. Those who don't want or need the information are not forced to read it, and nobody is forced to follow the prototype's practices. If I stepped on your tender toes, I will quote Steve Martin: EXCUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUSE ME.
Now go run your trains any way you like.
Tom
dominic c It's a good runner but does anyone care that the engine is diecast and the tender is plastic? My question is why? And can you imagine the price if it was all diecast? Also some replies have a prototypical response. Do you think the OP just wanted to know what others thought about it's performance? Joe C
It's a good runner but does anyone care that the engine is diecast and the tender is plastic? My question is why? And can you imagine the price if it was all diecast? Also some replies have a prototypical response. Do you think the OP just wanted to know what others thought about it's performance?
This is a guess, but the die cast metal for the loco gives the weight needed to pull trains along with the standard traction tire. The tender is dead weight to a steam model and the die cast metal shell tenders add a lot of weight. I replaced the die cast metal tender shell on the BLI Y6 with a shell from the early A class, which was plastic. It makes a big difference reducing the dead weight of the tender.
Personally, it does not matter to me the difference of materials between the loco and tender. You cannot tell by looking at the model.
CZ
cacole A real show stopper for me is the statement, "Equipped with Traction Tires." Every BLI steam locomotive in their 2015 catalog states they are equipped with traction tires. In the dry Arizona desert, traction tires don't last very long before they dry out, crack, and come off. BLI used to provide an extra set of drive wheels without traction tires for all their steam offerings, but there's no mention of this in the catalog. And with a catalog listed MSRP of $449.99, only 1 cent short of $450 (plus shipping), I'm not planning on owning one. I know the actual street price will be less, but still, .....
A real show stopper for me is the statement, "Equipped with Traction Tires."
Every BLI steam locomotive in their 2015 catalog states they are equipped with traction tires.
In the dry Arizona desert, traction tires don't last very long before they dry out, crack, and come off.
BLI used to provide an extra set of drive wheels without traction tires for all their steam offerings, but there's no mention of this in the catalog.
And with a catalog listed MSRP of $449.99, only 1 cent short of $450 (plus shipping), I'm not planning on owning one. I know the actual street price will be less, but still, .....
True, they do have traction tires, but for $10 and a call to BLI, you can have a wheel set to replace the traction tire. I ordered and received my replacement set for the 4-12-2. BLI used to include the extra set for free, but most of those would not used.
The H10 is a nice small steamer that runs very well and is interesting for sure. One mistake BLI has with the latest standard 2-8-0 with the normal boiler for other roads. It uses the basic chassis system from the H10 and the pilot markers were not removed for the other roads standard 2-8-0 model.
I turned off the cab light since no steamer I have every seen has a cab light that is like a spotlight. Steam lights inside the cab is normally extremely dim with small lights on the gauges and one or two small bulbs lighting the cab in a dim fashion.
Here's a sort of nit-picky point:
All H10s engines were originally built for Lines West (of Pittsburgh), and most of them seemed to be built with the tender seen on the BLI model. They all received numbers 7001 or higher in Lines West series when built, and I'm pretty sure none ever received a Lines East number. They were a logical development of the H9s, which had smaller cylinders but was otherwise just about identical. Most H9s engines were assigned to Lines East, although a few went to Lines West. Numbering by divisional assignments ended shortly after WWI.
Eventually, many H10s engines migrated to the East. This seems to have begun around the 1930's or so, and increased around WWII. Many H10s engines had their tenders modified or replaced. It seems that very few that went East kept their original tenders. Those with replacements are obviously the ones BLI calls "Lines East" H10s. Replacement tenders included the types used commonly on I1s and L1s engines. The proposed BLI "Lines East" H10s will carry a tender like those on I1s engines. I've seen photos of 8014 and other engines that matched the proposed BLI model. The only surviving H10s (at Strasburg, PA) carries the type most commonly associated with the L1s Mikado.
It makes sense to guess that a future BLI run of H10s would have the L1s tender after their L1s model is released. It also makes sense to imagine that BLI could eventually release an H9s with a different set of cylinders and valve chests, and possibly other PRR prototypes that used the same boiler.
It also seems worthwhile to mention that H10s engines were sold for use to Long Island, Western Allegheny, Pittsburgh Chartiers & Youghiogheny, Interstate, and DT&I, with two DT&I's being re-sold to P&WV during WWII.
Second hand H9s engines went to Bellefonte Central, Norfolk & Portsmouth Belt, and Lake Erie Franklin & Clarion.
73
Bruce in the Peg
Running, detail, sound, etc. give a short review if possible.