Kitbashing Athearn Hustlers into HOn30 Switchers - Project Update

[G Paine]

In addition to the 3D printed boxcab I have described in another thread, I am also kitbashing two Athearn Hustlers into HOn30 switchers, or “critters”.  As mentioned before, HOn30 is used to model 2 foot narrow gauge in HO scale.  I volunteer with the Boothbay Railway Village in Maine, and one of our goals for the winter is to have trains running on the narrow gauge part of our layout by the time the museum opens in late May.  To power the switchers, I will be using Bachmann 45 tonner and 70 tonner mechanisms.

 

I will be referring to the 2 locomotives by the “shop number” until I decide on the road number for them.  So, for now, they will be numbers 1 and 2.

 

For the first attempt, I started by cutting the pilot and running boards off the Hustler using a razor saw, then separated the hood from the cab.  I used my mini table saw to cut the hood lengthwise on either side of the exhaust stacks, and cut a similar piece out of the cab.  I shortened the height of the cab by the thickness of the running boards, and shortened the length of the hood.  I stripped the paint off the pieces and glued the parts together.  Unfortunately, although the proportions of the switcher looked good, the result was too short and too narrow to fit the mechanism.  I decided to set this one aside and start on the other.

 

I started #2 in the same manner as #1, making the lengthwise cuts narrower and not shortening the hood.  The result was a good fit for the 45 tonner mechanism.  This was the result, the too short #1 is on the right:

 

At this point, I went back to #1, cut the hood from the cab and sawed both lengthwise.  I added a strip of styrene about a foot wide lengthwise to the hood and cab to make the whole thing wider.  I added styrene to the back of the hood to lengthen it.  At this point, I decided to change the look a bit by adding another foot to the hood and shortening the cab by a foot at the front window.  I added some detail parts and headlights using 3/16” styrene tube to both locomotives.  I built up strip styrene below the front of the hoods and the back of the cabs to provide a mounting point for Micro-Trains couplers; I installed a scale 4x12 inside front and back for the coupler screw hole.  Progress photos of the modified shells:

 

Side

 

Top

 

Front and back (a bit distorted due to camera close-up)

 

[G Paine]

Spotting Differences for the Railfans

 

Just for the fun of it, this section will describe the spotting differences between the 2 switchers.  Gotta keep the railfans happy .  Refer to the pictures above; #1 is on the left.

 

·         #1 has a longer hood and 2 exhaust stacks, indicating that it has a larger prime mover than #2.

·         #2 has a longer cab, and both side windows are full size

·         Both have the original Hustler horns.  #2 has them located in the original locations on the hood sides; #1 has them on top of the cab facing front and back.

·         The headlight on #2 is on the face of the hood; on #1 it is raised up.  The rear light is in the same location on both cabs.

·         #1 has a visible bell on top of the hood; on #2 it is “hidden” underneath somewhere

·         The hood grill on #2 has vertical bars (from scrap box pallet); on #1 it is a screen (cut from a Cannon & Co detail part)

·         #2 has an oval fan screen on top of the hood, #1 has none.

[G Paine]

The Bachmann Decoder

 

The Bachmann decoders are mounted on top of the mechanisms, and have a small, surface mount LED at both ends for headlights on the N scale model.  They would only illuminate the interior of my critters, so I removed them by heating the side with a soldering iron and pushing with the tip.  This dislodged one side; heating the other side removed the rest.  I drilled a hole through the circuit board on each LED soldering pad, and soldered in wires that I will use to connect the new headlight LEDs.

 

 

On the first one, I had removed the circuit board mounting screws.  When I tested it to see if it still worked, it did not.  I discovered that the power to the board routes up through the split frame to a raised mounting point on top where the screws attach.  This is where the decoder gets its power from the rails.  At first, I thought I had fried the decoder, but it worked when I put the screws back in.  I did not remove the mounting screws on the second board.

 

I have checked the wires on both ends of the decoder to confirm they have power, the voltage and if they still turn off and on when the direction changes.  I will use 3mm LEDs for the lights that I will install after painting.

 

Next I will mount the mechanisms inside the shells.

 

[hon30critter]

George

Really neat switchers! They will be unique.

Your work is prodding me to build some more critters. A while ago I scored 4 Tenshodo HO spud drives and 2 older NWSL HO Stanton drives for cheap on eBay. I'll have to do some research to see what I can build them into, or maybe I'll just wing it for fun.

Eagerly awaiting your progress reports,

Dave

P.S. With reference to the BullAnt drive that you are using for your other HOn30 project, I am currently working with one to power a Grandt Line 25 tonner. Tonight I test fitted the drive into the shell and it fit but it was quite snug. BIG mistake! I nearly destroyed the BullAnt trying to pull it back out. Turns out they are very delicate, which actually would be no suprise to anybody with half a brain. Anyhow, I managed to repair it but I was feeling pretty stupid there for a while because I had applied too much force. After a little filing on the inside of the shell, which I should have done in the first place, it now slides in and out quite nicely. Just a word of caution.

[G Paine]

It has been about 13 months since I have posted an update on this project. I got mentally stuck trying to figure out how to mount the Bachmann mechanism in the shell. Some time last summer, it occurred to me that there are a set of bumps on the mechansim frame that Bachmann uses to mount the 44 and 70 ton N scale shells. Why not use these?? (DUH) I was busy on other projects, and just got back to this one recently.

I decided to concentrate on No 1, and get it completed, then complete No 2 once I had a method. I built up a set of mounts on the inside of the shell using strip styrene. I initially made the mounts so the shell would sit a bit low, then shim up to get the proper height on the body mounted couplers. This photo shows the mounts in place; No 1 is the lower shell in the photo

With the height correct, I test fit the mechanism with the couplers in place, and discovered that the back of the coupler pocket interfered with the truck swing. I had to cut the hood again to lengthen it. Once that was done I painted it with engine black mix. I drilled and tapped holes in the shell and installed Micro Trains couplers

Next to add decals, figures and mount LED the lights.

[G Paine]

I finished No 1 this week and took it to the Boothbay layout for a photo op. It needs a bit of gear lube and cleaned track to get it runnning in layout condition.

Now on to #2 to complete the project