I have read about and seen examples of modelers who cut the pins off Kadee couplers. Obviously this makes magentic uncoupling impossible so I'm guessing manual uncoupling tools are used instead. I use a combination of magentic uncoupling and manual uncoupling. I've removed all uncoupling ramps from the mainline to avoid unwanted uncoupling on moving trains. I'm curious as to the reason for cutting the pins off. Is it for appearance sake or is it to avoid the pins snagging on turnouts and grade crossings? I've found that even if the coupler itself is the correct height when checked with the coupler gauge, the pin is often too low and I have to bend it upward but then I am still able to use magnetic uncoupling in yards and spurs.
I cut mine off and use skewers for uncoupling. I also add brake hoses to all my cars.
I prefer the hose look and I think cars look funny with both.
Chuck - Modeling in HO scale and anything narrow gauge
When I am running on my clubs HO layouts I use Skewers to do the uncoupling. On my N scale home layout I use rics pics as well as on the clubs N layouts. I only cut the trip pins off if I have trouble with them (too low). I have made a couple of lighted uncoupling tools by gluing cut down rics pics to lenses of Maglites solitare flashlight for use in dimmly lit areas
I don't use magnetic uncoupling, but still leave the trip pins on all my cars. I usually insert the uncoupling pick between the trip pins rather than the knuckles. I also have to do a lot of manual uncoupling in my lower deck staging yard, and another area or two where it's more convenient to handle the pick from the side instead of the top. Keeping the pins is helpful for such situations.
Properly tuned couplers won't snag on anything. From the people I know who've done it, trip pin removal was an aesthetic issue.
Rob Spangler
I only remove the pins on the pilot (front) couplers of my locomotives since they stand out like curved fire-hoses. All others stay as provided.
While I do enjoy the appearance of well detailed cars, the trip pins on KD's have never offended me or bothered me. Cutting them off seems rather permanent and also expensive to replace them all if I changed my mind at a later date and decided I wanted them back!
It's easy enough to bend them up a little to make them never cause issues with hanging up on anything below. I bend all of mine up just a tad when I add them to cars.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I cut them off. If I want to uncouple I will use a skewer.They look better with out the darn thing hanging there .Oh, and they can't hang up on crossings and turnouts either.
selector I only remove the pins on the pilot (front) couplers of my locomotives since they stand out like curved fire-hoses. All others stay as provided.
That Y6 is mighty nice looking without the large pin hanging down.
Good scene and nice smoke and turbo generator exhaust.
Is this your new layout??
CZ
The very first time I visited (and operated) on a layout, the owner made full use of the delayed action uncoupling feature of Kadees, and I was hooked. But it is astounding to me how many modelers -- guys who absolutely insist on KD couplers over all other brands -- have NEVER used the delayed action feature and have no intention of doing so (and either don't care if the pins are there are not, or routinely remove them).
I don't mind using the almighty skewer or other such tools, but it has always seemed to be that the less we jab at or push or touch our couplers the longer they'll stay properly aligned.
Dave Nelson
All of my magnetic Kadees retain their pins - but some have been turned 180 degrees to alleviate other problems. I prefer uncoupling magnetically to sticking the (clumsy, arthritic) Hand of God into the scene - disregarding altogether the need to uncouple at totally inaccessible places in the netherworld.
Certain places have fixed uncoupling ramps - and operating conditions that take that into account. In other places I've installed drop-down under-tie magnets, and only raise them when uncoupling is necessary. I tried a Kadee electromagnet, but it doesn't work well with my (mostly) galvanized steel (aka tinplate) cars.
OTOH, I have removed the pins from some of my Kadees - truly ancient K couplers which had a vertical pin dropped directly from the angle of the knuckle. The active diamond ramps they need have long since faded into history. Those couplers are never uncoupled in operation (they're between cars which run in permanent cuts) but they're handy to re-couple after maintenance.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in 1964 - with K couplers that were old in 1964)
dknelsonBut it is astounding to me how many modelers -- guys who absolutely insist on KD couplers over all other brands -- have NEVER used the delayed action feature and have no intention of doing so...
I use "delay" all the time - but I use a pick instead of a magnet. The principle is the same (uncouple at one location and push the car where it goes). I've used the feature with magnets on layouts where the owner insists on it, but prefer not to be forced to uncouple only where there's a magnet.
...it has always seemed to be that the less we jab at or push or touch our couplers the longer they'll stay properly aligned.
On my layout we move hundreds of cars a session. Many of these cars have been in regular service for 20 years or more, on at least three layouts, and have endured countless instances of uncoupling with picks. I don't recall a single instance of a coupler becoming misaligned or otherwise damaged from such use. Every so often a knuckle spring may get dislodged, but I find myself replacing only a few springs a year.
dknelson The very first time I visited (and operated) on a layout, the owner made full use of the delayed action uncoupling feature of Kadees, and I was hooked. But it is astounding to me how many modelers -- guys who absolutely insist on KD couplers over all other brands -- have NEVER used the delayed action feature and have no intention of doing so (and either don't care if the pins are there are not, or routinely remove them). I don't mind using the almighty skewer or other such tools, but it has always seemed to be that the less we jab at or push or touch our couplers the longer they'll stay properly aligned. Dave Nelson
I have to agree. I like to use delayed action uncoupling when switching industries. I have industrial belts on either side of a double track mainline with multiple spurs off each one. A few well placed magnets will do the job of magnets on each spur. One thing that is a must with delayed action coupling is keeping the track clean. Even a momentary hesitation will cause the car(s) being shoved to seperate briefly from the loco allowing the couplers to swing back into coupling position. That can be very irritating. I still use skewers to uncouple on the mainline or in locations where magnets aren't feasible. It's good to be able to do both.
I also like the idea of using the skewer to seperate the pins from the side rather than the knuckles from the top. For switching close coupled passenger cars with diaphragms, this is about the only way to do it. I was skeptical at first, but after a few tries, I've found it no more difficult than topside uncoupling.
If you cut off the pins, and you have passenger cars with diaphragms that touch, how do you uncouple cars?
If you have car body locomotives (like F-units or PA's), and they have diaphragms that touch, how do you uncouple them if the pins are gone?
If you have neither, than I can see cutting off your trip pins for looks. I don't, but I can see why.
For trip pin height, sorry folks, but if your Kadee's are at the right height, you don't have to adjust the pins. Other brands may vary, and if you use a Code 100 magnet on Code 83 (or Code 70) track, then it's going to hit. But otherwise, Kadees are the right height from the factory unless your installation is drooping.
Paul A. Cutler III
Kadees are great, but I have had a couple that were too low from the factory. Not many, but a couple over the years.
Cars and locos with diaphrams that touch aren't air tight. Uncoupling can still be done from the top, it just requires a little more finesse.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Thanks, CZ. I'm afraid it's the old layout, now two years buried. Steam and smoke were hand-crafted using the cloning brush feature in SageLight Image Editor. Now that I look, I could have cloned out the small brass pins on the tabs of the closest points rails. That would have been yet more license with some already taken to add the smoke and steam.
Most of my shots are head-on, or on a quarter, so the pinned coupler really looks huge and unrealistic. The couplers don't change with the pins removed, but at least the pins aren't visible and competing for attention.
-Crandell
I leave them on but paint them black with a spot of silver paint on the end to represent the glad hand. I uncouple by hand with a rixpic. This takes longer to do and further extends the time of switching etc. I also pause for 20 seconds or so before and after uncoupling to simulate the time it would take in the proto world. I do have a small layout so these things extend operation time.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I routinely cut about half of the shank off and use skewers. I had some that were hanging up on turnouts that were at the bottom of a grade. I know thats not good track planning but it is what it is and I took the easy way out. Now it is just a habit. To each his own.
Marty C
LION removes couplers. Him installed DrawBars. : )
48 Wheel power pickup : )
Him make 4' long styrofoam cradle for removing set from layout.
Powered Frogs? Not on this layout, LION does not even bother to wire the double crossovers or slip switches. All fancy track work between north and south routings is electrically dead.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Paul3 For trip pin height, sorry folks, but if your Kadee's are at the right height, you don't have to adjust the pins. Other brands may vary, and if you use a Code 100 magnet on Code 83 (or Code 70) track, then it's going to hit. But otherwise, Kadees are the right height from the factory unless your installation is drooping. Paul A. Cutler III
Thats the trick isn't it Paul? I always try my best to get my KD's to match the two KD height gauges I have, but I do bend mine up just a itsy bit, to give them a slight margin in case one or two does end up dropping later on. I've found that building kits and getting the height right on my older MDC, Athearn, Stewart, E&C etc. kits can take a little tweaking and work, use of KD fiber washers etc. Even then after I've gotten them to match, later on one or two will end up some how lower than when first adjusted and tested.
That little bit of margin I bend mine up is just to help avoid issues during running should something get out of adjustement at some point, as insurance.
BTW, I did some operating in England in December with Mr. John Grant and he used the delay action on his Sweet Home Chicago layout. It was a blast using the delayed action. He had little signs to mark where the magnets were located under the track at strategic locations and it was very cool!
NP2626 To each his own! I leave mine on, I still make use of magnetic uncoupling in a couple of places where access is difficult. I use skewers everywhere else. I paint mine dark gray with a touch of silver on the tip. I’m not as hung-up on everything being completely scale like others seem to be. In fact, I really don’t like all the delicate plastic grabs irons, stirrups and other easily broken off and lost details on my freight cars that the new standard dictates and even think some of the molded on details look better.
I agree completely. I am perfectly happy with the molded on stirrups and grab irons. About half of my boxcars are Accurail upgraded with KD couplers and Proto 2000 wheelsets. I prefer the look of the KD #5 ad 148 couplers to the closer to scale #58 and a #158. Prototype couplers have a lot of bulk and that bulk doesn't scale down well. Even though the smaller couplers are closer to scale, they look too small to my eye. The most important thing for couplers is that the work well. If they look good too, that is a bonus but secondary to function. Who really sees the couplers when a train is moving anyway. I have the same attitude toward track. If the trains don't derail, it's good track. Appearance is a distance second. Almost all my track is code 83 Atlas flex track and turnouts with minimal weathering. I used a few Walthers for curved turnouts. Also when I began my layout, Atlas hadn't come out with their #8 which is what I use on my mainline. I have never handlaid a foot of track and have no desire to even try.
When buying used cars at a Train Show and I find them with missing Coupler Pins - the price automatically does down as I NOW have to replace the couplers.
While I use the pointed stick method of uncoupling - I will use both ways to uncouple -
Coming down from the top and also reaching in from the side to hold the coupler pin over to release the kadees.
I also will use NOTHING but Kadee couplers!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
I do trim the trip pins enough to clear the locomotive pilots when coupled to a trailing F unit.
The shorter trip pins still work on magnet uncouplers. However, I uncouple mostly with a small tool or skewer. If diaphragms are in the way, i reach from the side and pull the trip pin on one coupler to uncouple.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
CTValleyRR,Um, sorry, but I have to disagree with regards to diaphragms. You are correct that they aren't air tight, but they might as well be. When you have diaphragms that touch and you try to put a skewer between them, what happens? The cars (or locos) move away from each other. The couplers are now under tension. In order to uncouple them, they have to have slack action so one can stick the point of the skewer inbetween the couplers and keep the small lip on each knuckle from engaging each other. When they are under tension, this can't be done...at all.
If you have any FA-1's, try it. I have a set, and if it wasn't for the trip pins I'd never be able to uncouple them without picking them up off the track. Even then, I have to push the units against each other while I'm reaching under for the pin. I've also had to do this with Athearn Genesis F-units with American Limited diaphragms.
At this point, my freight cars and engines mostly all have the trip pins in place, but I plan on removing them in the future. I tried using magnet uncouplers but I don't like being stuck in only being able to uncouple in certain places. I've never used a skewer, I just use my fingers.
After being in HO for 25 years, it's become second nature to uncouple freight or passenger cars by hand. I reach my thumb and finger around the car and grab the car's truck on each side. Lift up enough to clear the coupler, move it slightly to the right, engage the top of the other car's coupler in the 'delayed' position with the bottom of the coupler of the car I'm holding, and put the truck back on the track. It takes maybe 1-2 seconds, and now the couplers are together with the couplers in the 'delayed' position so I can set out the car.
I've removed the trip pins from my passenger cars with diapragms and they work fine - in fact better. With passenger cars with trip pins, they inevitably lock together and are much harder to get apart.
Paul, I do not run passenger cars or F's...anything with a diaphragm. I haven't had a passenger car, with the exception of a couple of MDC 36'ers since the mid 70's. I also do not use the magnets. With a layout that is not over 18" in width, skewers work just fine.
I just prefer the looks without the pins. I also prefer the detail of a brake hose.
I run nothing but Kadee, mainly the 148 with the whiskers.
All my locomotives have snowplows on the front. I've started removing trip pins because I'm tired of the coupler head being out on a 3 foot beam so the trip pin can clear the snowplow. I use Kadee coupler hoses for appearence.
I have never used magnetic uncouplers nor will I. That goes double for "delayed" uncoupling, it corresponds to nothing on the prototype.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
"Stick" uncoupling isn't an option on my layout. It is too high, and in many places way too deep. Delayed is the only way for me. #5s work well, 148s even better. The un-scale look of the pins is a small price to pay for reliable performance.
All but one of my permanent magnet uncouplers, and there's lots of 'em, are retractable under the track, ties, and ballast. Thus they are invisible, and no accidental uncouplings. The magnets are lifted into position when needed, drop away when not.
I rarely use those skewers, and that's to cook on! Dan
I use magnetic uncoupling for many reasons but,the main reason I like the "hands off" uncoupling.Why not use magnetic uncoupling since you are paying for that option with every pack of KD couplers you buy?
If I wanted manual uncoupling I would use Sergent Couplers.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Paul3 CTValleyRR,Um, sorry, but I have to disagree with regards to diaphragms. You are correct that they aren't air tight, but they might as well be. When you have diaphragms that touch and you try to put a skewer between them, what happens? The cars (or locos) move away from each other. The couplers are now under tension. In order to uncouple them, they have to have slack action so one can stick the point of the skewer inbetween the couplers and keep the small lip on each knuckle from engaging each other. When they are under tension, this can't be done...at all. If you have any FA-1's, try it. I have a set, and if it wasn't for the trip pins I'd never be able to uncouple them without picking them up off the track. Even then, I have to push the units against each other while I'm reaching under for the pin. I've also had to do this with Athearn Genesis F-units with American Limited diaphragms. Paul A. Cutler III
I'm with Paul on this, I install American Limited diaphragms on all my passenger cars and they "really" touch, with nearly prototypical car spacing - not this "almost" touch typical of many expensive new RTR cars.
If you have any thoughts of uncoupling two of my passenger cars without removing them from the track, you need the trip pins. Same is true of all my F units, PA's, FA's, etc. I think the trip pins actually do a good job of looking like coupled air hoses in a moving train - that was the part of the idea. If I was just building cars for their static appearance, I would use dummy couplers - actually, before I converted to Kadee couplers in 1968, my trains all had dummy couplers and you simply picked up the car end and slid the two coupers together - I was not into switching at that point, so automatic coupling was not that important. The use of dummy couplers was pretty common in HO during the 50's/60's and many brands of rolling stock came with them. Our hobby is full of compromises - to each their own. Sheldon
If you have any thoughts of uncoupling two of my passenger cars without removing them from the track, you need the trip pins.
Same is true of all my F units, PA's, FA's, etc.
I think the trip pins actually do a good job of looking like coupled air hoses in a moving train - that was the part of the idea.
If I was just building cars for their static appearance, I would use dummy couplers - actually, before I converted to Kadee couplers in 1968, my trains all had dummy couplers and you simply picked up the car end and slid the two coupers together - I was not into switching at that point, so automatic coupling was not that important.
The use of dummy couplers was pretty common in HO during the 50's/60's and many brands of rolling stock came with them.
Our hobby is full of compromises - to each their own.
Sheldon