couplers

[Kookaburra and Possum Bottom Railway]

I just saw a YouTube video where the coupler broke and damaged a runaway model train. They were knuckle couplers,but they weren't Kadees. I am toying with replacing my mix of 3 types of couplers with Sergent couplers. These are knuckle couplers but they look a bit more prototype than Kadees. Does anyone know if they too are manufactured in  USA.? What is your experience of them? Could I fit them to HOn30  rolling stock some of which is based on N scale  models using Rapido couplers and the rest are Lilliput models with wire loop couplers? I already use link wagons with a different coupler on each end, though would prefer not to. John

[cacole]

Yes, Sergent Engineering couplers are made in the U.S., are metal, and are patented.

I have used their HO scale couplers, but one thing you need to be aware of is that they are not compatible with any other brand or type, so you may need have some 'transition' cars with a Sergent coupler on one end and other types on the other end, unless you're going to try to convert everything, including locomotives.

 

[gmpullman]

Hi, Kookaburra

My loyalties will always be with Kadee. The sheer size of their product line is an indication of their success with the model railroad hobby.

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm

Have you looked at the "scale" line of HO coupler with the smaller, more detailed head?

With the variety of the equipment you have I feel the Kadee is the best choice because of the many mounting options they offer.

Here's a link to Sergent Engineering, too.

http://www.sergentengineering.com/

I have to admit that they have a very extensive array of shank and head options as well. Perhaps if your equipment roster isn't too extensive the Sergent might be a good choice for you.

Your milage may vary...  Ed

[CandOsteam]

Kookaburra and Possum Bottom Railway

I just saw a YouTube video where the coupler broke and damaged a runaway model train. They were knuckle couplers,but they weren't Kadees. I am toying with replacing my mix of 3 types of couplers with Sergent couplers. These are knuckle couplers but they look a bit more prototype than Kadees. Does anyone know if they too are manufactured in  USA.? What is your experience of them? Could I fit them to HOn30  rolling stock some of which is based on N scale  models using Rapido couplers and the rest are Lilliput models with wire loop couplers? I already use link wagons with a different coupler on each end, though would prefer not to. John

 

Kookaburra and Possum Bottom Railway,

I have a lot of experience with sergent couplers compared to Kadees that I can share.  Was a strict user of Kadees for decades and they are a great product.  The newest "scale" couplers are nice and had them on many of my rolling stock, but I'll briefly outline why I decided to change to sergents.

My C&O is designed for point to point and out and back walk around operation, so I am always close to the action.  I like the true-to-scale dimensions of sergents and the ability to extend my operating sessions by being more involved in the real life motions of coupling and uncoupling cars.  I first tried Sergent's prebuilt compatible shank couplers that drop right in a Kadee or equivalent box. 

That first experience was mixed because I did not know how these non-Kadee couplers worked.  Must be careful about lining up to mate.  I was also not so happy about the fact that sometimes I could not get cars to uncouple reliably.  Things got better after I learned how to break them in properly as suggested by Frank Sergent.  I also found a way to get 100% uncoupling efficiency by make my own magnetic uncoupling tool that is easy to make.  I am meaning to show my setup to Frank...  After more testing, I went for the plunge and ordered the unassembled bulk kit along with the assembling jig.  Now I have my entire modest fleet of about 150 cars all converted including all of my steam locomotives.

Oh and finally, should mention that sergents are also on my fleet of Branchline heavyweights.  These have working diaphragms and are close coupled with little gap between cars.  I was initially concerned about how to uncouple these cars and several years ago emailed Frank Sergent about this.  Without me asking he sent me free a prototype of an uncoupling tool that he was developing for sale.  That was awfully nice of him to do.  The uncoupler is now available and it works nicely in my hands.

I must say I really enjoy them in my operations.  I feel just like a real brakeman when lining up to couple.  There is no car bouncing because of little slack and uncoupling with my tool is a breeze.  No car handling ever to release cuts of cars. 

Sergents can also be used in "delay position" like the Kadees to spot cars that are farther away from my reach, but I have to plan my switching because sergents are not self-centering.  Once you back away, the couplers stay in the offset position.  BTW, this is a plus on coupling/uncoupling on curves.  To deal with retrieving cars from my West staging, I mix in cars with scale Kadee couplers in the string and always make sure the first car in the string has Kadees AND the car going in to pull the string out ALSO has Kadees so I do not have to worry about alignment to make the joint.

Despite what Frank and others say, I CAN use sergents with both Kadee No. 5 and the smaller "scale" couplers. But in my case, I have broad (34" minimum) curves, so tighter curves may not play well. 

Anyway, theses are my thoughts on sergents after using them in regular switching intensive operations on my C&O for over 3 years now.

Aside:  I have kept my Kadees in a box for when I get less nimble (suppose we all get there someday).

I'll post a picture later tonight of the uncoupling tool I designed FYI in case you decide to try sergents.

Joel

 

[CandOsteam]

As promised, here is a picture of a few magnetic uncouplers I use with sergent couplers.

The first uncoupler on the left is for passenger cars that have diaphragms in the way that Frank Sergent gave to me.  The paper thin blade is slipped in the gap between the bottom of the diaphragm and top of couplers to draw up the tiny steel ball in each coupler to release the knuckle.

The middle uncoupler is doubled ended.  One end is half of the magnetic rod uncoupler that sergent sells that is grafted using shrink tubing to a short length of 1/8 inch wood dowel painted.  The other end is a stronger cylindrical magnet attached using a plastic sleeve that has a steel rod so the magnet just grabs it (no glueing needed).  This arrangement is very useful because I can twirl the uncoupler to the stronger magnet if the Sergent end is not sufficient to free a stubborn locking ball.  You can actually hear a click when the stronger end draws up the internal steel ball.

I made the last uncoupler using 1/8 aluminum tubing with the same plastic sleeve/rod arrangement to hold the magnet in place.  I used some clear shrink tubing to hold a 1/4 inch piece of 0.01 inch phosphor bronze wire to act as a "whisker" to knudge the knuckle open just like Sergent's uncoupling tool for sale.  To make lining up easier, I put a red flexible tube at the other end that telescopes so I can adjust its' length when I need to get in between cars to line up couplers.

BTW, sergents also work great with Kadee HOn3 couplers (think they are called "old time" couplers) if that is a concern.

Good luck with your choice.

Joel

[BroadwayLion]

LION uses DRAW BARS. Brings cars closer together. Him hard wires between the cars for 48 wheel pick-up. (Wheely!). Also wires seprate circuit for car lighting.

 

Maybe you do not model subway trains, eh?

 

ROAR

[Brodie]

Kadees are bombproof and come in many variations. I prefer the #5 O'l Reliable HO coupler because it so tolerant, sensitive, and looks good. I even have them on display cars.