Here's a quick self-portrait I shot in front of the layout recently:
Wow, these photos are impressive and inspiring.
Mike, that layout is awesome (and huge!)
GP-9, I'm loving the Horseshoe Curve
Peter, that is really nice weathering
howmus, nice to get a look at the are just down from the work we've been watching near the overpass
I got my profile boards/fascia up. I got my last piece of road roughed in crossing over the tracks close to the camera. The rectangle cut out of the front board will hold a recessed control panel so it doesn't stick out (and by stick out I mean get ripped out by a running kid)
I have a 4x8 layout which means my 22" curves were a little too close to the edge on the 4' side (aforementioned running children) for my comfort. I used some spacers so the profile boards/fascia are 3" off the edge. I initially hesitated about this since so many things are sold in 8' length max (foam and wood) but I've found workarounds.
I painted (and kind of weathered) the piers for the back bridge. They were too dark so I brushed the highlights with a lighter grey which looks good enough. I also glued them in place and started installing the track bed there.
Here's a shot of the bridge placed on the piers for demonstration.
And for the sake of a photo, I leaned a tunnel portal in place. Now I realize that I'll either have to darken the tunnel portal or lighten the piers as they look to different. I'll probably lighten the piers although I still might apply an antique/wash the portals since the only weathering they come with (from Chooch) is the smoke stain. FYI the black and white on the piers is less pronounced in person.
I want to get started on my mountains and install the back profile board but I realized I would need to install all the track and have everything running before I felt comfortable closing in those tunnels. I designed the layout with ez-track but have since decided to use flex track. I've never laid it before so I'm not comfortable just doing the tunnels; I need to know everything's in well before those mountains get covered. That being said, I got my first layer of plaster on all the track areas. My 7 year old daughter even helped me with a portion of it.
As always, the best thread of the week! Some great modeling in here once again...
I have been SLOWly getting a bit more done in the area. Here are a few shots of the location where Howard's Dairy will reside.
An overview of the larger area. You can see where this relative the overpass bridge I have been working on.
Enjoy!
73
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
I've seen a couple of those before and would love to build one at some point. I have something similiar built by my dad many years ago..........I will need to get a better pic later on.
Good stuff all around everyone.
Here are a couple from the BRVRR:
NYC ALCO #4210 rounds the curve at the west end of the BRVRR layout at the head of a short passenger train. These locos don't get much run time but I thought they deserved to have their photo taken.
NYC GP-20 #6109 east bound at the head of a mixed freight crossing RT-32 as a west bound coal drag passes on the outer mainline.
Keep the photos and ideas coming guys. Thanks to you WPF is always the best thread of the week.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
Many of us will recognize this station, but it's such an old kit (copyright 1957) that most have never actually built one. I haven't either, but I needed to do some work inside it, so I carefully took it apart:
Yes, it's the old Revell station. This one was put together pretty well, but the walls have always been very thin plastic, so it glowed when I put a bulb into it for illumination. I think it was easier to disassemble it than try to line the walls while it was together. At the same time, I re-installed most of those thin, clear plastic window inserts, and touched up the paint here and there. While the windows were out, I gave the walls a spray of flat finish (still shiny after all these years!) and added a new nameplate to the sides.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Crane on the club layout.
This is the model
And the prototype
Jack W.
Everybody: .. All of your photos are very impressive.
Guy: your CN 1721 looks great.
Here is my project of recent days. This is a GN stock car (nearest to the camera) is a Mather Stock car I made from a Proto 2000 kit that has been in storage for a few years. It was made before Walthers purchased Life Like. It includes many fine details.
The second photos shows the SD24's I had in a video here last week. The Tsunami sound makes it realistic.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Nice work all.
My weekend project was much simpler. I put a new decoder in this P2K GP-7, replaced the bulbs for Leds and lubricate the gears. Back to service after a few months on the repair shelf.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
I contracted the PRR for some layout cleanup. I caught them in the act one Sunday morning........
I tried my hand at locating the East Penn tower on my RDG, PRR, CNJ, LV layout....
Re G Paine's post about the Bull Ant power drive:
Geoff was very helpful when I placed an order with him. I was trying to duplicate the late Wolfgang Dudler's switcher and Geoff was kind enough to look up the specs from Wolfgang's original order. Doing so allowed me to put in a bigger motor than I thought I could.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
mlehman G Paine I received my HOn30 BullAnt drive from Hollywood Foundry. Very Cool! I've got a couple of project concepts I hope to get to eventually that are intended to take advantage of Hollywood Foundry's offerings.
G Paine I received my HOn30 BullAnt drive from Hollywood Foundry.
Very Cool! I've got a couple of project concepts I hope to get to eventually that are intended to take advantage of Hollywood Foundry's offerings.
Yes Mike, I am pleased with the BullAnt, both from the quality of the product and the customer service. This is a link to their BullAnt ordering pagehttp://hollywoodfoundry.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=10&cat=BullAnt+Drive+MechanismsAs you can see, they have a lot options. There is a link 'click for details...'; it is a good idea to have both pages open when you are making selections. Prices include a 10% Goods and Services Tax (I think similar VAT in Europe) which is deducted when you complete your order. Air mail shipping was AUS$17.60. Final cost will depend of the exchange rate when you order; they have links to an exchange calculator.
The basic ordering dimension is wheelbase; but my critical dimension is overall length. I sent them an e-mail about this, and had a reply from Geoff in less than an hour that included a drawing.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Two of the newest faces in the fleet, both have TCS 6 pin decoders in them.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
Great stuff as usual, all!
I'm still working on hiding the main where it enters the lower level staging:
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Rick, Thanks for starting up the WPF while the Bear toils away. Like how you're detailing the U25B, I've got a soft spot for those old Stewarts.
Slow progress being made on a carfloat harbor scene. Finished weathering the Frenchman River pontoon float bridge yesterday.
Thanks to all and regards, Peter
Hello all, and already lots of great-looking stuff!
More work on my P-44-to-be:
Mostly work on the domes, beginning with some of the piping, and reshaping the front to be less bulgey.
P
Jimmy,
That's really pretty darned good for a first shot. It'll grow on you. I have a few of my first creations around and they're pretty humble compared to your structure.
Scratchbuilding is a little like riding a bike. It sure seems intimidating at first -- that bike is so big and you're hardly able to reach the pedals and hold onto the handles at the same time. Now that you're upright and cruising, it'll only get better.
Another analogy is the scratchbuilding is a lot like making sour dough bread. Once you've got that yeast starter going, it's pretty easy to keep baking. You probably had a scrap box before, but now that you have leftovers from this project to add to them, you start looking at it in a different way. Hmmm, what could I make with this?!?!
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Bear, I've built stuff before only using drawings found in books. So I guess you could say, this was my first one built where I ended up doing the drawing to build from. Yeah, I am going to do more scratch building in the future.
(My Model Railroad, My Rules)
These are the opinions of an under 35 , from the east end of, and modeling, the same section of the Wheeling and Lake Erie railway. As well as a freelanced road (Austinville and Dynamite City railroad).
dti406Looks like Bear is really working at lot this week
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Great to see what you all have been working on.
As for me, I'm putting together another parts-built brass loco. A mogul this time. Here it is on my workbench test track:
There's plenty of work yet to do, but it's finally looking like it may turn out OK.
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
Hi Guys,
I'm new 'round here and mostly to model railroading in general. I started a layout a few years ago, it didn't work well, I got frustrated and stopped. Recently I accepted the fact that I'm going to do a lot of things wrong as I go and started up again. To keep things a little on the cheaper side starting out I'm working on an N-scale diorama using supplies I've had lying around.
Just painted the fascia with some sample paint we got when redoing one room in the house.
To save money, I went back in time and bought the bridge kit on sale...
Ok... maybe it's actually a kit that my grandfather had and never used. I don't know the actual age of it. My grandfather passed 20 years ago and I know he had it for a long time before that.
-matthew
Thanks for the compliments guys. Mike, that really means a lot coming from you.
Start of a long journey! I finally have one sheet of foam board down and started hand laying siding ties this week. This is a project about 40 years in the making.
G PaineI received my HOn30 BullAnt drive from Hollywood Foundry.
George,
A couple of days ago, I received my HOn30 BullAnt drive from Hollywood Foundry. This is the actual size - no Photoshop. It is 1.6 inches long, and DCC ready.
As I progress with this project, I will start a thread showing how things are going together.
Another great start to the weekend. I returned to teaching this year, after 3 years of retirement, so I haven't really done a lot on the model railroad this year--mainly re-doing some scenery slowly but surely.
However, last week, my oldest articulated turned fifty---bought it in 1965, just after coming out of the Air Force. So here she is, still running like a champ and pulling like a herd of oxen. I've done some cosmetic face-lifting over the years, and a new motor and a little re-gearing, but basically she's the same big lady that came out of the Akane box when I was young and had hair, lol! Here she is pulling a freight up Yuba Pass. I think she'll probably outlast me.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
ES44ac heritage unit leading a freight through the yard.
Nice work everyone like each WPF.
Work is going on on my high lift rotary coal dumper in Nscale.
I put here only two of numerous pictures you can found on our sister community
"LAYOUTS AND LAYOUTS BUILDING" my topic "Building a small yard in Nscale"
I fabricated all the pulleys brackets supports and soldered all the pulleys on the upper deck this week,
I also scratchbuild the two horizontal pulleys brackets supports, and have begun to prepare some pieces for the craddle.
This is the rail which will guide the craddle and this is the wheel, a 2mm roller bearing!,