I learned my lesson about Dullcoat and buildings back in my teenage years. I detailed the interior of the upper floor of an Atlas switch tower. With wire, scrap wood, cardboard and paper I built a series of interlocking levers, a desk and cabinets. Looked really nice - until I Dullcoated the exterior! One window was modeled as partially open, so if you got your eye right next to that window you could see a little of the desk. As they say, live and learn. Or maybe try things and learn.
George V.
You can get the same effect by using Scotch "invisible" or vanishing tape. The nice thing is, you can peel it off if you want to go back to clear glazing.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
mlehman NP2626 I'm attempting to find stuff that I can buy at my local hardware store because my closest hobby shop is 80 miles away. Mark, If there's a Hobby Lobby around, they may also have Vallejo. Our does. I may have to check out this Satin magic that Frank is pushing, too. Could come in very handy with painting figures.
NP2626 I'm attempting to find stuff that I can buy at my local hardware store because my closest hobby shop is 80 miles away.
Mark,
If there's a Hobby Lobby around, they may also have Vallejo. Our does. I may have to check out this Satin magic that Frank is pushing, too. Could come in very handy with painting figures.
That is exactly what I was using it for....Military figures, Especially my Son's Warhammer 4OK Game's figure's that have about six different colors on one figure, I use Citadel Arcylic paint for them and the Dullcote Lacquer was smearing the colors when applied with a brush, not to mention the painstakingly applied tiny decals that go on them....unit badges.
Couple pic's.
Take Care!
Frank
NP2626I'm attempting to find stuff that I can buy at my local hardware store because my closest hobby shop is 80 miles away.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
maxman I don't think that we should blame Dullcote for ruining Windows. I think we should blame Microsoft. Every time they do an update something or the other doesn't work properly.. Further.............. ummm, you mean model train windows? never mind.
I don't think that we should blame Dullcote for ruining Windows. I think we should blame Microsoft. Every time they do an update something or the other doesn't work properly.. Further..............
ummm, you mean model train windows? never mind.
Good one!!
Dean
30 years 1:1 Canadian Pacific.....now switching in HO
Yes....My reply was for You Mark. I have just started using it. Works great for brushing. I understand looking for another source, but at my age, If I want it, I get it within reason. I can't drive anymore, so I let the Mailman do my walking for me.
zstripe Mark, I totally forgot to mention this in my other post.....try Vellejo Satin Varnish, 100% Acrylic Resin, can be brushed on or airbrushed when thinned with water. I just started using it on brushed on item's. Dullcote will mix the colors already painted, when brushed on. This one won't. Take Care! Frank
I totally forgot to mention this in my other post.....try Vellejo Satin Varnish, 100% Acrylic Resin, can be brushed on or airbrushed when thinned with water. I just started using it on brushed on item's. Dullcote will mix the colors already painted, when brushed on. This one won't.
Frank,
I'm assuming you meant me and not the other Mark!
Thanks for the suggestion! I'm attempting to find stuff that I can buy at my local hardware store because my closest hobby shop is 80 miles away.
Mark
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
dale8chevyss I'm new to dullcote (Testors) and was wondering how it performs over model windows- does it distort and ruin the clearness like superglue does? I don't have any window material left to find out myself. Thanks
I'm new to dullcote (Testors) and was wondering how it performs over model windows- does it distort and ruin the clearness like superglue does? I don't have any window material left to find out myself.
Thanks
I air brush Dullcote on all my buildings, before I install the window glazing. I build all the buildings at the work bench. For a four sided building, I build to right angle sections, spray dullcote, let dry, install window glazing, complete building and install on layout. All foundations are already pre-set up, so building will fit exactly where I want it. They are not fastened down, all can be moved by lifting, disconnect a simple two wire plug-in and take it to the work bench if need be. Most all buildings have first floor interiors, upper floors have White frosted Acetate which is paper thin, can be cut with scissors. This back drop building is three sided with a cardboard back that is also part of the roof, inside are LED's, outside lights are incandesants, all resister's and wiring are hidden from view and are centralized to two wires that go down a brass tube and disconnected, then building can be moved. Out side details are missing, cause I'm working on the whole area and don't want the shop vac' to eat them when cleaning. Takes a lot of planning and measuring, but I'm in this hobby for real and have an extreme amount of patience, I learned that from model wood ship building.
Yes, it "fogs" the windows. I don't do building interiors so I generally like that effect. Another thing I noticed if you lite the interior it tends to soften the light being emitted. Another effect I like.
I haven't had the experience of it ever ruining the window glass material, but if you want to see thru the window, don't spray it with Dull Cote.
Tim
If you do get dullcoat on clear glazing that you don't want, it can be easily removed with a Q-Tip and some alcohol without harming the clear plastic.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Daniel:
Simple answer - yes it will ruin the 'clearness' of the glazing. It doesn't damage the glazing the same way CA does but you won't be able to see much through it.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
This is a few light coats of airbrushed 50/50 Dullcote & lacquer thinner on the inside surface of the window glazing. Shiny on the outside fogged on the inside.
Regards, Peter
Depending on the "look" you want, any overcoat of additional finish will cause the clear glazing to craze or get hazy. On some structures you may want to reduce the transparency of the glazing. Dirty factory windows or background windows where you don't want to see the details (or lack thereof) you could use a matte spray to fog the glazing. Sometimes I'll tape a hazy material in order to reduce the clarity of the glazing. Sometimes you can get the effect with steel wool or very fine sanding.
The best choice is to add your glazing after all the building finishes have been applied or at least mask the windows unless you are going for a dirty factory window.
As far as fogging in the same way super glue vapor ruins the glazing I have not encountered that result (with a masked window) using Krylon or Testors clear finishes.
Have fun! Ed
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.